This really sucks!!

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rocket

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Changing out my spark plugs, Job is done pita as usual. However another problem arose, How important are those coil pack bolts? I dropped one and it virtually disappeared!! I looked every where. Has anybody have any Idea where I can get one. I checked the local junkyard . he doesn't want too part out a motor. cheap ******* said he didn't have any dodge motors at all.
I can use any coil pack screw I believe. O6 motor 5.7 l hemi. Thats where I am at. Oh cleaned the throttle body as well. sorry no pix, You all seen what they look like uncleaned. nothing new here either.:birgits_tiredcoffee
 

SMKN

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as long as you did not loose it while a plug was out.......you should be able to take one of the bolts to fastenal or any screw and bolt place for them to match it up!
 
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rocket

rocket

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Fortunately I was in the process of putting it together. Nothing went down them tubes but spark plugs thank god.
 

KGBIGCOUNTRY

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I second going to a local hardware place and matching it up. When you cleaned your throttle body you used brake cleaner correct and not TB cleaner and advoided the electrical side.
 
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rocket

rocket

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No i took off the sending unit. then unbolted it from the manifold. I started with wd 40. then finished it off with lighter fluid. don't laugh once you clean it really good and dry it off . your good to go!!
 

KGBIGCOUNTRY

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Yeah I took mine off as well but looking at the TB from the front side the black cover on the side has all the elec motor and what not for the blade. I cleaned mine like everyother TB is normaly cleaned and the POS started acting up, ended up gettin a ported and polished unit after that.
 

badfish888

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personally id just take another one to a hardware store and match it, or the dealer will charge u 100 bucks for a "special hemi only bolt". that and i also think the tension from the bold helps compress the gasket around the coil pack, preventing debris from getting into the plug hole.
 
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rocket

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Yeah I took mine off as well but looking at the TB from the front side the black cover on the side has all the elec motor and what not for the blade. I cleaned mine like everyother TB is normaly cleaned and the POS started acting up, ended up gettin a ported and polished unit after that.

personally id just take another one to a hardware store and match it, or the dealer will charge u 100 bucks for a "special hemi only bolt". that and i also think the tension from the bold helps compress the gasket around the coil pack, preventing debris from getting into the plug hole.

Well noted, I took the truck for a couple wot blasts. Couldn't keep it there , not on this weekend . But it ran good . No issue's yet with the throttle body. I didn't go nuts with it. Just basically cleaned the inside where the grime was. I stayed away from the black side as it were. Fingers are crossed.

second quote; Thats what I did , They had a metric auto body tray and matched one up close. No shank threaded all the way, but she went in true and tightened right up. Was a little short, but I could feel it enter the valve cover part. the coil packs are threaded as well btw. Which is why there is a shank imo.:drool:
 

ramhunter9

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you need the bolt ... you need a tight seal around the coil pack so moisture does not get in there fouling a plug ect ... take the other bolt you have now from the other side and match it up a local store . It is a 10 mm bolt if my memory serves me right .

also when you did the TB clean ?? dont forget to do a re-set of the PCM
 
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rocket

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Thanks Rh Yeah I pulled #'s 23 31 and 38. One of them did the trick.i took care of the bolt with a replacement.btw.
 

badfish888

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not to steal the post but how do u reset the pcm, and what does that do. ive cleaned my TB 3 times now and just bolted her back up w/ no problems
 
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rocket

rocket

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not to steal the post but how do u reset the pcm, and what does that do. ive cleaned my TB 3 times now and just bolted her back up w/ no problems

I have an o6,so your year may be different. There are two ways to reset a pcm controller. (This is the brains for your truck). The first is too pull the neg. off your batt. and wait ten minutes. Some people actually cross the pos and neg. together, I wouldn;t do that there is no need, imo. But whatever. The other way is too pull the fuse and wait 5 min. This will save your presets on the truck radio.
The fuse for mine is #23. I've seen #29,31,and 28. So far.
The reason you do this in the first place is too let your (pcm) relearn your driving habits, and actually reset the fuel air mixture, as time goes by the pcm would reset itself. But nobody has that much patience.lol A reset is in order because after a mod, you actually changed the amount of air into the motor,or the amount of air leaving the motor. Samething with fuel if you were so inclined btw.
It also bypassses some rough idles that would crop up as the motor reset itself. So you do it for it.:005:
 

AF_Hemi

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rocket you got the first method correct, although i do NOT recommend touching postive/negative terminals. just pull the terminals and wait for a few minutes

The other method is as follows:

1. pull PCM fuse
2. get in and fasten seatbelt (yes its necessary)
3. turn key to acc, then off, then acc, then off, then acc, then off
4. it should go "ding........ding ding"
5. unbuckle seatbelt, replaces fuse and your done
 
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rocket

rocket

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Oh yeah I forgot that part, damnit I khew there was something else. But I thought it was turn key til you hear a ding. then shut off. I'll check around. but yeah totally forgot that step WHOOPS!!!
 

badfish888

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icic ill try it and see if i notice any difference thanks again
 

OklaHemi

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rocket you got the first method correct, although i do NOT recommend touching postive/negative terminals. just pull the terminals and wait for a few minutes

The other method is as follows:

1. pull PCM fuse
2. get in and fasten seatbelt (yes its necessary)
3. turn key to acc, then off, then acc, then off, then acc, then off
4. it should go "ding........ding ding"
5. unbuckle seatbelt, replaces fuse and your done

sorry af i dont find that to be completely accurate as it was explained to me. not saying you are wrong but here is what i do and how it was explained.

1. pull pcm fuse

(fastening the seat bel isnt required only eliminates the dings it will produce and avoids confusion.)

2. turn key to on and let it sit

if your seatbelt is not fastened it will ding 5 times followed by pause 1 ding pause 1 ding.

if you seatbelt is fastened there will be a longer pause followed by 1 ding pause one ding

one thing that i have noticed is that during the 5 seatbelt dings or the pause that takes place if it is fastened the airbag light goes off and after the second lone ding it comes back on.

3. then reinstall you fuse, dont forget your fuse puller, and youre done.

i just went and tried both methods and the 5 dings was the only difference.
 

OklaHemi

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oh and sorry rocket i would call the dealership and get a price or try advance auto. i had to get some bolts for my throttle body the and they werent that expensive. if they dont have it they can order it and get it there pretty quick
 
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rocket

rocket

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Yeah I did both as well, Truck runs good, gottam get the tuning straightened out now.....sp
 
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rocket

rocket

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oh and sorry rocket i would call the dealership and get a price or try advance auto. i had to get some bolts for my throttle body the and they werent that expensive. if they dont have it they can order it and get it there pretty quick

Problem solved, napa had a tray of metric auto body bolts. Same color and thread. you can't tell the difference. And she is nice and tight. like a high school girl friend. lol.......sp again.
 

OklaHemi

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like a sweedish ****** gooden tight. im glad they had one i looked everywhere for my tb bolts and advance had them
 

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