Rough idle

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blkredHemi2004

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Ok I changed the oil on last Tuesday and everything was went great until Saturday morning. I turned on a road and it just quit. When I tried to restart it, it acted like the battery was dying. On the 4th time, it started but had a very rough idle and struggled to stay running. Now, when I cold start it it's ok but a light shake, like a small misfire. As soon as I touch the gas, on idle, it turns to a very rough idle and struggles to stay running. I have checked the sensor, vac lines, fluid levels, air filter. The picture is the tube from oil fill to air box connection. Any ideas?
 

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lharrell79

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How much oil did you put in it? What is that yellow gunk in the breather hose outlet?
 
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blkredHemi2004

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I put 7qts in, as I always do. And I have no idea what that gunk is.
 

lharrell79

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That yellow cheese looks like a water/oil emulsion. How did the oil look when you drained it? What does your coolant look like?
 
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blkredHemi2004

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The oil was old, normal. No discoloration. The colant is normal. A friend hooked up a scanner and everything came back pretty normal. The only thing that was interesting was the intermittent oil pressure. We also found out that it won't idle but runs fine at a higher RPM.
 
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blkredHemi2004

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Update: replaced the crankshaft and the camshaft sensors and the problem is still there. No codes come up that weren't known, like the MAF sensor, we unplugged it. Any ideas where to look from here?
 

usaf2006

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Simple and cheap option, have you checked/changed your pcv valve lately?
 
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blkredHemi2004

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I haven't. I wouldn't think that would cause this type of problem. I've check the vacuum line from the brake booster to the throttle body. It appears to be fine. But I will check or replace the that.
 
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blkredHemi2004

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Yeah PCV valve was dirty, but not clogged. I've been reading and talking to friends and I've heard a couple different things aside of what I've done. One: it being a fuse, the door lock fuse, I'm not sure about that but I will check it. Two: a broken valve spring, but most of the rams that have this problem are a bit above 200,000 miles, again I'm at 177. Possibly could be the problem since no codes came up.
 
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blkredHemi2004

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Update::
EGR valve is replaced. Now it won't even fire. When I try to start it, pump the gas, and no change, but I can smell gas. No signs of leaks.
 

RamDude52

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I have an 05 1500 5.7 and recently had EXACT SAME ISSUE. Mine ended up being rollover valve. The front one was cracked in 2 spots. Can't replace it, have to replace whole tank, so I used some jb weld plastic epoxy and smothered it. Went ahead and replaced fuel pump while under there. This fixed my problem, and my truck has 177k as well. Worth a look, the jb weld was $6.

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RamDude52

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On top of the fuel tank. It's built in from the factory. Why, who knows? Pretty ******* engineering! Anyway, sometimes they'll crack around the vent line nipple or where the recirculation line from the filler neck comes into it. Mine was cracked in. BOTH places. There should be 6 bolts in your bed (18mm) 1 on each side behind the cab, and 2 on each side toward rear of bed. The 4 in the rear are through the frame rails so you'll need an extension to reach them. Leave 2 on passenger side loose with a few threads in to keep bed from sliding off. Tilt bed up on driver side and use a jackstand on frame to block it up. You can get to everything from there. Lots of videos on you-tube to walk you through the fuel pump replacement but nothing on the rollover valve. Be careful though, as there is a diaphragm in the rollover valve, if the top pops off, you'll have to make sure the diaphragm doesn't get lost.

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blkredHemi2004

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Ok so with a flashlight and a mirror, nothing seems or appears worn. So I checked the pressure test port, and there's gas there.
 

RamDude52

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Check both of them. Should be 1 toward front of tank and one toward the rear, with the fuel pump being in the middle.

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RamDude52

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I don't know how the system works, but it's vacuum related and the tank having pressure in it and so on. By what you described, if it's not rollover valve or fuel pump, it sounds like a vacuum related problem to me because you said you replaced EGR valve and now it won't run at all. Keep me posted, I'd like to know what it ends up being!

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blkredHemi2004

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Update from the dealer:
So those of you who have been following this issue, this is what I was told from the dodge dealer near me. They hooked it to the computer and it came back with the camshaft sensor having 2 volts when it should 5 volts. They traced it to the PCM. The PCM was malfunctioning and it needs to be replace. For a new PCM through the dealer will cost around $1,300, after labor and reprogramming, $1,600.
 

RamDude52

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That sucks....

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