TorqStorm Supercharger update

StaLL1oN · Dec 15, 2014

charonblk07 said:
Unfortunately it does defeat the purpose of having a kit if you have to make all kinds of changes to the system to get it to work.

I agree 100%

On the other hand I still think its a decent buy

Price wise

charonblk07 · Dec 15, 2014

StaLL1oN said:
I agree 100%

On the other hand I still think its a decent buy

Price wise

Agreed, good price and pretty much the same thing I did when I piecemeal'd my procharger setup together; started with a bracket and head unit and improved it from there. Add a w/m injection system to this to tame the IATs and you'd be in a much better place when it's all said and done.

Gecko · Dec 15, 2014

charonblk07 said:
Definitely agree it's your BOV, if it's manifold referenced (hard to see but looks like it is) it should be completely open at idle and when you should be in vacuum (basically anytime you're below 1/2 throttle), this is causing the vacuum brake booster to not have enough vacuum to work properly. I've found it needs at least 10in-Mg to work and was the driving reason behind me going to a hydro-boost setup. I'd be driving and the stock surge valve couldn't let off enough air and I'd stay in boost or at neutral and have no brakes... 3 times was enough for me to make a change. Hopefully changing to the surge valve works out for you, it helped in my situation when I went to a Big Red Race Valve but was not 100% and I didn't want to install an electric vacuum pump for the brake booster.

Now, you say it's opening when you rev the engine, but is it open at idle? It must be to bleed off the excess air that the blower is producing that the engine can't use and if it's acting like a BOV and not a surge valve then that's an issue. Forgive me if you already know this but it's a commonly misunderstood concept and presented as knowledge for evreyone: a BOV is mean to regulate max boost and will be open while under boost and closed at idle; a surge valve is meant to bleed off excess air when the throttle body closes and will be closed under max boost and open at idle. If they just mounted a BOV with a standard spring then THAT is the issue. Switching to a proper surge valve should clear that up.

I didn't know there was a difference but thanks for the info. And when I said it would open when I revved the engine I should have clarified, it's closed on the rev but when you come off the gas and the rpms are coming back down that's when it opens. It then closes at idle again.

My buddy has taken it apart and it seems that there is nothing wrong with it but, he can't open it by just pulling on it either (I guess you're supposed to be able to do that).

charonblk07 said:
Agreed, good price and pretty much the same thing I did when I piecemeal'd my procharger setup together; started with a bracket and head unit and improved it from there. Add a w/m injection system to this to tame the IATs and you'd be in a much better place when it's all said and done.

I decided to go with an air to air intercooler setup instead of the w/m injection. I figured it was going to be an easier/safer bet.

We just haven't had the chance to set it up yet, but being that its winter time, we aren't in a rush since the IAT's won't be getting too high like they would in the summer.

It should be going on in about 2 weeks.

hemidup · Dec 15, 2014

Who's doing your tuning?

charonblk07 · Dec 15, 2014

Gecko said:
I didn't know there was a difference but thanks for the info. And when I said it would open when I revved the engine I should have clarified, it's closed on the rev but when you come off the gas and the rpms are coming back down that's when it opens. It then closes at idle again.

My buddy has taken it apart and it seems that there is nothing wrong with it but, he can't open it by just pulling on it either (I guess you're supposed to be able to do that).

That just doesn't sound right, I'd definitely look at getting it swapped out, if your friend has a Procharger surge valve give it a try. I'd offer mine since I'll never use one that small again but it'd need to travel across the border and wouldn't be worth it.

Gecko said:
I decided to go with an air to air intercooler setup instead of the w/m injection. I figured it was going to be an easier/safer bet.

We just haven't had the chance to set it up yet, but being that its winter time, we aren't in a rush since the IAT's won't be getting too high like they would in the summer.

It should be going on in about 2 weeks.

That works. With the w/m injection I was just thinking out loud how you could make their "kit" better. What intercooler did you pick up and from where? And despite it being winter, you'd be amazed at how quick IATs will rise once you start compressing air. It could be below freezing at you can have IATs in the 130s when you get into boost without any kind of cooler.

Gecko · Dec 15, 2014

charonblk07 said:
That just doesn't sound right, I'd definitely look at getting it swapped out, if your friend has a Procharger surge valve give it a try. I'd offer mine since I'll never use one that small again but it'd need to travel across the border and wouldn't be worth it.

That works. With the w/m injection I was just thinking out loud how you could make their "kit" better. What intercooler did you pick up and from where? And despite it being winter, you'd be amazed at how quick IATs will rise once you start compressing air. It could be below freezing at you can have IATs in the 130s when you get into boost without any kind of cooler.

Well the Procharger bov worked. It seems the problem was with the TorqStorm one. I might still be interested in your's though as I probably have to give this one back to my buddy at some point. I do plan on calling TorqStorm tomorrow to see if they will send me another BOV that works since this first one doesn't. It seems the working BOV has gotten rid of most of the auto drive that the truck was having. The tune is still SUPER rich but the idle has smoothed out a bit. When in reverse it still idles high and surges but that seems to be the only problem right now. We are pretty sure it's all down to the tune now so I'm hopefully able to get on the dyno later this week and have AJ tune it to get the truck back on the street.

I ended up going with a Treadstone intercooler that I bought right from their site. I believe you were the one that recommended them to me in the other thread. It's just going to be a matter of figuring out the best place to run the piping for it but I'm not too worried as there is plenty of space for that.

And I guess you're right about the IAT's. I figure the kit is meant to be run without and cooling so for a week or 2 I should be fine.

My biggest concern now is the trans. I was talking with Mike from L&M and there's a good chance I'll be heading down to his place in January to have him rebuild my trans so I won't have to worry about it anymore.

Out of curiosity Kurtis, what torque converter are you running in your L&M trans? I need to purchase one to go with the trans and I'm just trying to figure out the best one for me.

charonblk07 · Dec 15, 2014

Man, I wish I could live somewhere anywhere near an awesome tuner like AJ. You've heard he's not at Arrington anymore, right? From what I've heard on the car sites is he'll be doing just fine on his own and isn't anchored to the sinking ship that is Arrington, if you find out more let us know.

I thought I'd talked to you about the Treadstone coolers, best price I've found for them anywhere. Depending on the type you got will determine the piping, if I were to do it over again I'd get one with the inlet/out let on the same side and mount it all on the passenger side. Remove the factory overflow tank and just pick up a small overflow reservoir that can be used, I'm running one of these. That would give you lots of room to the side of the radiator, you just might need to trim the plastic on the lower cross member like I did.

Mike will set you up nicely, I'm very happy with his trans behind my engine, been there for 2 years now with only one regular repeating code that neither Mike nor I can figure out what's causing it but can't find anything bad about it. When I come off WOT the 'B' clutch is holding too long and throws a code every time but there has been no drivability issues in 2 years from it so I'm not concerned and I've had the CEL on for so long now I'm worried when it's NOT illuminated.

I'm running a 2800 stall Circle-D converter, with the blower it's flashing around 3400. Circle-D's offered to tighten it up but I just can't be bothered to pull the converter to send it to the states and have the truck down for a while, especially since I don't have a garage and the condo board doesn't like me doing mechanical work in the parking lot, lol.

Gecko · Dec 15, 2014

hemidup said:
Who's doing your tuning?

Didn't see this before, but AJ from Arrington/True Street Performance (AJ hemi from the LX forums) is doing my tuning.

Gecko · Dec 15, 2014

charonblk07 said:
Man, I wish I could live somewhere anywhere near an awesome tuner like AJ. You've heard he's not at Arrington anymore, right? From what I've heard on the car sites is he'll be doing just fine on his own and isn't anchored to the sinking ship that is Arrington, if you find out more let us know.

I thought I'd talked to you about the Treadstone coolers, best price I've found for them anywhere. Depending on the type you got will determine the piping, if I were to do it over again I'd get one with the inlet/out let on the same side and mount it all on the passenger side. Remove the factory overflow tank and just pick up a small overflow reservoir that can be used, I'm running one of these. That would give you lots of room to the side of the radiator, you just might need to trim the plastic on the lower cross member like I did.

Mike will set you up nicely, I'm very happy with his trans behind my engine, been there for 2 years now with only one regular repeating code that neither Mike nor I can figure out what's causing it but can't find anything bad about it. When I come off WOT the 'B' clutch is holding too long and throws a code every time but there has been no drivability issues in 2 years from it so I'm not concerned and I've had the CEL on for so long now I'm worried when it's NOT illuminated.

I'm running a 2800 stall Circle-D converter, with the blower it's flashing around 3400. Circle-D's offered to tighten it up but I just can't be bothered to pull the converter to send it to the states and have the truck down for a while, especially since I don't have a garage and the condo board doesn't like me doing mechanical work in the parking lot, lol.

Good thing I read this post before my response to hemidup *facepalm*

I ended up going with this intercooler:
TR10C Intercooler 666HP- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

It's probably overkill but it fit by my measurements and I figured I couldn't be too cautious and get one too small.

The plan right now would be to drive down to Mike's shop since he's only about 2 hours south of me. Then he'll do the work and the install.

I was talking with him about converters and he told me to contact Matt from Moe's so I'm just waiting on a reply back from him. I figured in the mean time I would ask around what people who have an L&M trans are running for converters.

charonblk07 · Dec 15, 2014

That's the one I'd been planning on using if I'd planned to keep the P1SC but I went with the TR1235 after I decided on a D1SC in the end and it required trimming the upper rad crossmember and relocating the horn but it fits. If Mike's doing the install then you're in good hands, I'll be interested to see how he runs everything, when I planned it on my '07 I expected to run everything under the radiator.

You should be good with either Edge's Street Edge or the Circle-D 11" HP-II, both are around the same price and can be built to whatever stall you want, I like a lower stall for streetability and they tend to flash higher on boosted applications. Matt will hook you up, we were talking converters for boosted applications a couple nights ago.

Gecko · Dec 16, 2014

charonblk07 said:
That's the one I'd been planning on using if I'd planned to keep the P1SC but I went with the TR1235 after I decided on a D1SC in the end and it required trimming the upper rad crossmember and relocating the horn but it fits. If Mike's doing the install then you're in good hands, I'll be interested to see how he runs everything, when I planned it on my '07 I expected to run everything under the radiator.

You should be good with either Edge's Street Edge or the Circle-D 11" HP-II, both are around the same price and can be built to whatever stall you want, I like a lower stall for streetability and they tend to flash higher on boosted applications. Matt will hook you up, we were talking converters for boosted applications a couple nights ago.

Run everything under the radiator for the trans? You've lost me here...

I was thinking a 3000 stall converter, but if its going to end up flashing higher because of the boost maybe I should go with the 2800. I'm guessing I'll see around 400-420 whp with this setup but I could be wrong. Either way it's not the number you have so I don't expect the converter to flash as much over its projected number as yours does.

StaLL1oN · Dec 16, 2014

Lol and here I am proud to have been able to scrounge up LT headers, SC tuner, CAI and TB. You guys make me want to start selling toys for a boosted application :/

charonblk07 · Dec 16, 2014

Gecko said:
Run everything under the radiator for the trans? You've lost me here...

I was thinking a 3000 stall converter, but if its going to end up flashing higher because of the boost maybe I should go with the 2800. I'm guessing I'll see around 400-420 whp with this setup but I could be wrong. Either way it's not the number you have so I don't expect the converter to flash as much over its projected number as yours does.

Two separate paragraphs for 2 separate parts, lol, it made sense when I wrote it all last night. Having the outlets on opposite sides on a 3rd gen can pose a challenge because the A/C's radiator is in the way on the driver's side so you'd have to route the charge piping under the radiator on that side.

When you talk with Matt he should be able to get the guys from whatever company you choose to tighten up the TC or build one with boost in mind so it doesn't flash so high, mine flashes higher because it was originally built for a n/a vehicle and I just swapped it over to the new truck. I can get Circle D to tighten up the stall but I'm doing alright at the moment since it matches the stock cam fairly well flashing at 3400.

charonblk07 · Dec 16, 2014

StaLL1oN said:
Lol and here I am proud to have been able to scrounge up LT headers, SC tuner, CAI and TB. You guys make me want to start selling toys for a boosted application :/

We all start somewhere. The only difference between what we do and crack is what we do is generally socially acceptable; it still destroys your bank accounts, alienates your spouse, and gets you associated with others with the same habits that end up in a downward spiral of selling everything you own for just a few more horsepower.

StaLL1oN · Dec 16, 2014

charonblk07 said:
We all start somewhere. The only difference between what we do and crack is what we do is generally socially acceptable; it still destroys your bank accounts, alienates your spouse, and gets you associated with others with the same habits that end up in a downward spiral of selling everything you own for just a few more horsepower.

Lmao, nicely put sir

Gecko · Dec 16, 2014

charonblk07 said:
Two separate paragraphs for 2 separate parts, lol, it made sense when I wrote it all last night. Having the outlets on opposite sides on a 3rd gen can pose a challenge because the A/C's radiator is in the way on the driver's side so you'd have to route the charge piping under the radiator on that side.

When you talk with Matt he should be able to get the guys from whatever company you choose to tighten up the TC or build one with boost in mind so it doesn't flash so high, mine flashes higher because it was originally built for a n/a vehicle and I just swapped it over to the new truck. I can get Circle D to tighten up the stall but I'm doing alright at the moment since it matches the stock cam fairly well flashing at 3400.

Yea we figure we may have to trim a couple things here and there to make it fit. It's not a big deal. My buddy has a plan in his head already for how the piping going to run so there shouldn't be any problems.

On another note I spoke with the True Street today and I'll be getting the truck on the dyno next Tuesday for the tune.

Also the truck seems to run a little better the more miles we put on it. My buddy drove it to work today and said the morning drive was borderline dangerous. But he took it out for lunch and it ran much better. He's going to be putting miles on it over the next few days for me so hopefully the truck learns a little bit and starts to run a little better.

Oh and stall1on I never planned on doing any of this to my truck. It just slowly snowballed and then I just kept wanting more and more power. It seems to happen to everyone lol

ST-8 · Dec 16, 2014

Yup I remeber buying mine just planning to put a muffler an a superchips with a nice drop an rims. Guess I was doomed when I bought a hemi

RonJon '06 · Dec 16, 2014

Its the truth. I joined RF when I needed help with my stock Hemi rebuild.....I was corrupted lol. :favorites13:

charonblk07 · Dec 16, 2014

I just wanted to change the tail lights on my '07... then I found the forums and the appearance mods started, then I met my local Mopar group and the engine mods started... then I had to replace a wrecked truck and someone flushed the toilet that I was keeping my money in.

hemihustlin · Dec 16, 2014

charonblk07 said:
We all start somewhere. The only difference between what we do and crack is what we do is generally socially acceptable; it still destroys your bank accounts, alienates your spouse, and gets you associated with others with the same habits that end up in a downward spiral of selling everything you own for just a few more horsepower.

Operating a modded vehicle may also cause increased heart rate, heart palpitations, hyperthermia, shortness of breath, dizzyness, clenching of the teeth, overexcitment and in some cases paranoid delusions (OMG what noise did my truck just make going over that bump?!?)

Other side effects include frequent visits to the gas station, premature tire wear and waiting for the ups man to arrive like a kid waits for santa on christmas eve!

TorqStorm Supercharger update

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