10" sub assistance

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mhb1638

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I'm sure this has been asked 10000000x but the search function didn't come back with anything.....

So....I am considering buying a 10" fox sub box and if I do, was looking for subwoofer suggestions. The amp I have will be pushing roughly 150-200 watts from what I can tell (states 300 for 2 ohms).

Here's the thing...I'm almost 41....I do not want bass like a 16 year old kid. I want quality, clarity, clean bass. I was thinking maybe JL audio for this. Or maybe Alpine? Anyone have suggestions?
 

bucks130

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When I bought my fox box last fall I thought they had sealed options as well as ported. I went with 10" ported driver side. In hindsight I should have gone sealed myself but opted for ported at the time
 
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mhb1638

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When I bought my fox box last fall I thought they had sealed options as well as ported. I went with 10" ported driver side. In hindsight I should have gone sealed myself but opted for ported at the time

The sealed option it's for a 12" sub. That to much for what I want.
 

bucks130

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Not sure if there is ever "too much" for good bass response. As long as the box is made to fit the sub's volume requirements then you would be fine. Although, depending on the sub you go with, the amp also needs to provide adequate wattage.
 

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When I bought my fox box last fall I thought they had sealed options as well as ported. I went with 10" ported driver side. In hindsight I should have gone sealed myself but opted for ported at the time

They did and then they discontinued a few items. Unfortunately I decided to choose the box I wanted right on the cusp of when they did this and I wasnt able to get it
 

bucks130

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That sucks. Talk about bad timing. If you are a DIYer then you could try making a box out of fiberglass. I may try this option this summer myself
 

Eestee70

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Hey mhb1638.... what type of amp do you have for your sub?. Most cookie cutter sub enclosures will only give you a satisfactory return on quality and clarity. You lose a lot from box flex and vibration based on build quality. If sound quality and clarity is important to you then I would suggest that you have a custom box built to accommodate whatever sub you get, that way the box can be tuned to complement the sub. I prefer a sealed box myself. You can't go wrong with JL subs.
 
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mhb1638

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Since I'm not having much luck selling this amp, might go ahead and use it. It's a 5 channel amp.... Kicker cxa600.5 amp. Currently I have the VSS setup and it's ok but not what I'm looking for in sound.
 

Eestee70

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If I remember do you have the kicker door speaker upgrade too?
 

bucks130

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I would have to second the custom box idea, especially with the small area for these trucks. Using your kicker amp, 300W on a 2 ohm load should be more than enough for your needs. That being said, I think I would suggest a 10" sub over a 12" with your amp.

A quality 10" sub in a properly tuned box with 300W can be amazing if you have the right setup. Just remember that you will not be chattering teeth with this setup, but should have no problem obtaining quality bass response
 

bucks130

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I say all this because I used to have a Dakota and made a sealed box for a kicker 8" square sub powered with 300W @ 4 ohms and it was fine. I wasn't looking to compete with anyone, just good bass response and this was more than enough.

A lot of times people get hung up on wattage numbers, but your box and configuration have just as much to do with it
 
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mhb1638

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If I remember do you have the kicker door speaker upgrade too?

yes...and no. I originally did the Mopar/Kickers but didn't like the sound [later learned my HU was the issue]. So I now have Kicker component front door speakers (has its own xover). I still have the Mopar 77kick41 rear door speakers installed. And finally the VSS sub.

I would have to second the custom box idea, especially with the small area for these trucks. Using your kicker amp, 300W on a 2 ohm load should be more than enough for your needs. That being said, I think I would suggest a 10" sub over a 12" with your amp.

A quality 10" sub in a properly tuned box with 300W can be amazing if you have the right setup. Just remember that you will not be chattering teeth with this setup, but should have no problem obtaining quality bass response

Yes sir, 10" is more than adequate for what I need. I can look into a custom box, just worried they (any shop) wont be able to make it very good when you see how others are making the hole (the big part). I'm worried people won't be able to make it look nice and clean but I can be wrong.

I'm starting to think I want to replace the Kick41 rear speakers now. I was outside farting around and unhooked the sub and these speakers are making a TON of bass (and its at -3). Not wanting that from my doors. The front door doesn't do so much bass from the 6.5 system. But these Kicker 6x9 are really too much. Thinking a solid 6.5 coaxial.
As for the sub....again....I guess I need to look into guys that make this stuff. I'm extremely skeptical. One guy I know sells nothing but memphis?? speakers....never heard of them. Just the complexity of making this box makes me leary......

One thng I think the system will need is a 6 output audio control EQ/dsp/over like a AC DQ61, or LCQ-1.
 

Eestee70

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I would highly recommend doing the DQ-61. From your previous post I think you would benefit greatly from that unit. Look into this place called netaudio....other member rave about they're custom built sub boxes. Pick out a sub first though. The DQ-61 will give you enough tuning room to get the sound you're looking for. Just make sure that you get speakers that match up with the amps impedance. I never asked what kind of head unit do you have?
 
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mhb1638

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I would highly recommend doing the DQ-61. From your previous post I think you would benefit greatly from that unit. Look into this place called netaudio....other member rave about they're custom built sub boxes. Pick out a sub first though. The DQ-61 will give you enough tuning room to get the sound you're looking for. Just make sure that you get speakers that match up with the amps impedance. I never asked what kind of head unit do you have?

I'm using the factory 8.4 unit. Non Alpine.
 

bucks130

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I'm using the factory 8.4 unit. Non Alpine.
Do you have your kicker amp currently hooked up to your system now or do the doors run off the head unit and the vss sub is it's own system (amp & sub)?

I could look into the vss but figured it's easier to just ask you?

If you were interested, I have a DQ-61 up for sale in the classifieds. Also have a pigtail harness from netaudio that I used to get access to the speakers without having to splice into any factory wiring to add amps.

I had the 5.0 radio before going aftermarket but think this harness would also be compatible with your truck. I would have to ask netaudio to be sure.

According to this, it should work for you if needed.

https://www.netaudiowf.com/product/2013-17-dodge-ram-radio-t-harness/
 
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mhb1638

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Do you have your kicker amp currently hooked up to your system now or do the doors run off the head unit and the vss sub is it's own system (amp & sub)?

I could look into the vss but figured it's easier to just ask you?

If you were interested, I have a DQ-61 up for sale in the classifieds. Also have a pigtail harness from netaudio that I used to get access to the speakers without having to splice into any factory wiring to add amps.

I had the 5.0 radio before going aftermarket but think this harness would also be compatible with your truck. I would have to ask netaudio to be sure.

The speakers are all powered by the headunit. The VSS gets its signal from the Front left speaker. That signal powers its own little amp. But, all doors are off the unit itself. Only the VSS uses an amp, its own.

I'll take a look at your ad!
 

bucks130

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The speakers are all powered by the headunit. The VSS gets its signal from the Front left speaker. That signal powers its own little amp. But, all doors are off the unit itself. Only the VSS uses an amp, its own.

I'll take a look at your ad!
Sounds good!

Also, whichever route you take I would keep your current rear speakers installed. If you add the dq-61 or another component, you just need a crossover installed on your rears to help cut out the bass.
 
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