10" sub assistance

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autokraftgt

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mhb1638, I personally think you need to keep it simple and not over think this. Get a single 10" enclosure from foxbox or netaudio...sealed. it's not the best option, but it'll get you in the game and it's all you really need. Get a nice SQ oriented sub and you're good to go. JL 10w3, ARC Black, Image Dynamics IDQ, and there's many many others. Keep the gains down and simply enjoy. The enclosure makes or breaks the sub stage, but the two enclosures listed above will be more than enough. Match enclosure's internal volume to the sub as best you can and you'll be set.
My ARC blacks are buttery smooth, very transparent, not boomy, dig very low and NEVER lose their composure....they're make any Memphis/Alpine sub sound like work boots banging around in the dryer. Enjoy
 

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I'm 53 and just as you I like listening to music but didn't want all that window shattering, mirror moving, headache giving, bass you hear coming from the cars rolling down the streets these days. So I went with the FOX BOXDODGE QUAD & CREW CAB 1-10" VENTED DRIVER SIDE

and the JL AUDIO 10w3 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610W3V32/JL-Audio-10W3v3-2.html

It sounds really good, I have the bass adjustment knob in case its too much or too little. I did however let go of the original Head unit cause it just wasn't a satisfactory enough unit. I at first did everything speakers change keeping the head unit, hooking up amp with head unit and it just wasn't clear sounding enough for me. I listen to classics and hair band crap still to this day. 2 months ago I went with the Avic Nex 5201Pioneer and never regretted it at all. I didn't think the info you get from the oem radio was that important anymore. Now even when my 14 year old grand daughter gets in I let her listen to her music and she smiles from ear to ear, while my 6 year old one can watch her Minnie Mouse DVDs from the headset..
While I know all these options weren't the best and were still expensive I feel as though it fits my needs and makes me find even more excuses to take a drive in my truck !!!!!!
By the way I know little to nothing at all about electronics..
 
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bcbouy

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me neither. my h/u crapped the bed so i had a kenwood dd,hertz door speakers and a pioneer layflat powered 10" installed under the passenger seat.my 50 year old ears are now happy as a pig in **** when i'm driving.
 

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I'll be honest with you.... Never ever heard of either of them brands...

Morel has been around for a good while and makes some very high end components for car and home audio. Dayton mainly does home audio, but has branched out into the car audio side with speakers/subs over the last 5-7 years or so. Their HF (high fidelity) line of subs have very low inductance, which is great for maintaining accurate reproduction during quick bass passages. I will be running a pair of their 8's myself.

Ultimo SC 104 - Morel 10" 4 Ohm SC series Subwoofer

Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm
 
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mhb1638

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mhb1638, I personally think you need to keep it simple and not over think this. Get a single 10" enclosure from foxbox or netaudio...sealed. it's not the best option, but it'll get you in the game and it's all you really need. Get a nice SQ oriented sub and you're good to go. JL 10w3, ARC Black, Image Dynamics IDQ, and there's many many others. Keep the gains down and simply enjoy. The enclosure makes or breaks the sub stage, but the two enclosures listed above will be more than enough. Match enclosure's internal volume to the sub as best you can and you'll be set.
My ARC blacks are buttery smooth, very transparent, not boomy, dig very low and NEVER lose their composure....they're make any Memphis/Alpine sub sound like work boots banging around in the dryer. Enjoy
Interesting. I'll look into those. Yeah, I want to stay simple as possible but either way I go, I'm thinking I'm going to need some sort of EQ (like the DQ61) to help the door speakers out. The Foxbox is ported so not the option I need. I'll look into netaudio. FOund some bbox? I think it was on Amazon.

I'm 53 and just as you I like listening to music but didn't want all that window shattering, mirror moving, headache giving, bass you hear coming from the cars rolling down the streets these days. So I went with the FOX BOXDODGE QUAD & CREW CAB 1-10" VENTED DRIVER SIDE

and the JL AUDIO 10w3 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610W3V32/JL-Audio-10W3v3-2.html

It sounds really good, I have the bass adjustment knob in case its too much or too little. I did however let go of the original Head unit cause it just wasn't a satisfactory enough unit. I at first did everything speakers change keeping the head unit, hooking up amp with head unit and it just wasn't clear sounding enough for me. I listen to classics and hair band crap still to this day. 2 months ago I went with the Avic Nex 5201Pioneer and never regretted it at all. I didn't think the info you get from the oem radio was that important anymore. Now even when my 14 year old grand daughter gets in I let her listen to her music and she smiles from ear to ear, while my 6 year old one can watch her Minnie Mouse DVDs from the headset..
While I know all these options weren't the best and were still expensive I feel as though it fits my needs and makes me find even more excuses to take a drive in my truck !!!!!!
By the way I know little to nothing at all about electronics..

While I'd love to swap out the HU, thats getting into major money at that point. The radio, all harnesses, the Idata ****, this and that and you're about $1200 just for that. Of course I'm talking about the Pioneer 8200 model. Just cause it has Android Auto and if I was going to swap the HU, might as well do it right.
Morel has been around for a good while and makes some very high end components for car and home audio. Dayton mainly does home audio, but has branched out into the car audio side with speakers/subs over the last 5-7 years or so. Their HF (high fidelity) line of subs have very low inductance, which is great for maintaining accurate reproduction during quick bass passages. I will be running a pair of their 8's myself.

Ultimo SC 104 - Morel 10" 4 Ohm SC series Subwoofer

Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4 10" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm

Thank you sir, I'll look into them.
 
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mhb1638

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mhb1638, I personally think you need to keep it simple and not over think this. Get a single 10" enclosure from foxbox or netaudio...sealed. it's not the best option, but it'll get you in the game and it's all you really need. Get a nice SQ oriented sub and you're good to go. JL 10w3, ARC Black, Image Dynamics IDQ, and there's many many others. Keep the gains down and simply enjoy. The enclosure makes or breaks the sub stage, but the two enclosures listed above will be more than enough. Match enclosure's internal volume to the sub as best you can and you'll be set.
My ARC blacks are buttery smooth, very transparent, not boomy, dig very low and NEVER lose their composure....they're make any Memphis/Alpine sub sound like work boots banging around in the dryer. Enjoy

Autokraft....I went to net audio's website and their **** is expensive. Secondly, none of the "low" box's will allow the ideal .625 volume required for a JL audio 10w3v3. In fact the only box that had the perfect sweet spot was the "tall" driver side box...but that requires a 1.5" spacer on the seats. I don't like that option. The low driver side offers .4 cubit feet which is little small and the passenger foes to .8 which is too much.

Thoughts?
 

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Honestly - just buy the single JL stealthbox. You've already lost cash on trying to get this right... spend a few extra bucks and get something that is proven and simple.
 

autokraftgt

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Foxbox used to have a sealed option? Maybe their line up has changed...if so, silly move on their part.
Netaudio is built well and the enclosure makes or breaks a substage. You could trick the sub into thinking its in a larger enclosure by adding a pound of polyfill inside the enclosure. It will def help.
 
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mhb1638

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Honestly - just buy the single JL stealthbox. You've already lost cash on trying to get this right... spend a few extra bucks and get something that is proven and simple.

Honestly, as much as I hated to do it, I did. $600. Lot of money but at least I know it'll perform. The next big question is a proper DSP/EQ. I saw one awhile back from Audio COntrol that summed the front 2 channels to make a sub output...now I forgot it lol. So i'm looking.

NM-found it...AC LCQ1
 
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mhb1638

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Anyone know the difference between the AC LCQ1 vs the AC EQS? The website is down for me to research...
 

baum

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Im a huge fan of JL. I have had my Jl sub for 14-15 years now and it plays like it did back when i got it. The reason it play like it should and has lasted is i use the correct power for it. not over powered or under powered.

Personally i would look into build a box to spec of the sub you like.
 

adrianp89

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Again... keep it simple - just get a basic $15 line output converter and tie it into the front speaker leads.
 
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mhb1638

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Again... keep it simple - just get a basic $15 line output converter and tie it into the front speaker leads.

I'm all for that, but I can't confirm my amp will allow the audio control trick that takes in 4 channels and gives me a sub output from that.
43CXA600.5 is the amp.
Why I was thinking the AC for a clean signal as well as the ability to make 5 outputs from the high inputs of 4. Figured having the AC unit, whichever it is, gives me both worlds....
 

adrianp89

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Ah didn't realize you were still using a 5 channel. Could just link a few LOCs together.
 

adrianp89

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Scratch that - use just a 4 channel LOC. The PAC LP6 comes to mind. your amp can use the rear input as rear and sub. There is setting on the amp for this.
 

baum

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Scratch that - use just a 4 channel LOC. The PAC LP6 comes to mind. your amp can use the rear input as rear and sub. There is setting on the amp for this.

i couldnt agree anymore! so many people think they need a dsp now days unless you are running high end equipment a dsp is only a waste of money. Sorry but that kicker amp listed is far from high end (a 5 channel amp for $200).
 
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