2009-2012 1500 WIN Modules

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S0CAL

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Bought my 2010 used, back in 2015. Its Fobs were always finicky and required multiple presses, even after new batteries, and sometimes just inches from the truck. So after 3 months of ownership, I decided to have new Fobs made. Same problem, range sucked and it took multiple clicks to eventually open the lock. Sometimes, I just simply used the key because I was already at the door.

Fast foward a couple years, I recently installed an aftermarket remote keyless entry/start. This thing is awesome, and worked flawlessly (from 1/4 mile away)... until yesterday. In troubleshooting, I removed the unit and restored the truck to factory setup. Now, no matter how many clicks from either fob (and new batteries) remote keyless is not working.

I did some research and found that the 2009-2012 are notorious for bad Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) modules. What I do not know for certain is whether replacing (at dealer or aftermarket) the WIN module is actually going to fix the problem.

I have no problem at all with key in the ignition, the WIN module is good to go there.

Anyone else experience this? I see there was a TSB on these modules (gen1 and gen 2) but no factory recall. I have no warranty, so I am doing my best to get this done on the cheap -- and it ****** me off that I have to get a dealer or someone to program something. :flipthebird:
 

Ramzaq

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One of the problems the FOBS are noted for after time, are dirty contact surfaces under the button.

Happens to mine from time to time. I just take it apart and clean the contact surfaces with a slightly abrasive erasure and I am good to go and works like a charm, not a 1/4 mile though.

Give it a try.
 
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S0CAL

S0CAL

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One of the problems the FOBS are noted for after time, are dirty contact surfaces under the button.

Happens to mine from time to time. I just take it apart and clean the contact surfaces with a slightly abrasive erasure and I am good to go and works like a charm, not a 1/4 mile though.

Give it a try.

Nah this is not a fob issue, it's the peer WIN module. My fobs are clean and new batteries too. I have a GEN3 WIN module on order and will post a review once I get it programmed (no dealer involved which is cool, saved $$$).
 
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S0CAL

S0CAL

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2 day turnaround. sent my VIN info, WIN module swapped out in 5 mins, new factory fobs in hand that needed to be rekeyed. Here's who I used, saving hundreds of dollars and avoiding the dealer completely. :happy107:
 
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S0CAL

S0CAL

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give the guy a shout, he has various kits. You will not go wrong with this guy.
 

Tadpole

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Same problem with my 2009 Laramie. Just ordered from Autotech. Hopefully this will also fix my TPMS problem.
 

Cloud9

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Old thread but still relevant/useful topic. I bought my new WIN module from autotechelectronic.com about 5 months ago and that fixed my problem where truck would shut off (usually right after starting) and the key would get stuck in the ignition. Then just a few days ago, I had the same symptoms again, and truck would not start. I checked the battery voltages, and they were 12.37V and 12.28V. Had the batteries load tested, and one was bad, so had it replaced ... problem solved.
But with the low voltage situation, I was unable to get the WIN module to reset by disconnecting/reconnecting power.
So, I put them both on a 40amp charge (both bat cables connected), and pulled out the M26 fuse. When I plugged the fuse back in, everything came back to life and I got the truck started to go have the batteries checked.
It gets confusing in a vehicle with two batteries .... when one starts going bad, you may not notice any weakness and truck will continue to start, but the WIN module is so sensitive to voltage fluctuations, and it causes wierd things to happen. So long story short .... always verify you have two good batteries before replacing your WIN module.
 
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