Audio Upgrade

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Witch

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LOL ....... I would love to get a dual 10" box for under the back seats, problem is I have to keep my fold flat floor if I am to remain married as the wife uses it for grocery shopping, to be fair I use it as well

Talking with a guy from Net Audio and he is saying get my signal from the front doors and the sub

reasoning is the sub alone only will give me 60hz down and if I get the door signal I can get 100 hz down

Now I have no idea what that means other than the sub will be utilized more ? Making it's presence more pronounced ?

Does that make sense ?
 

sumgruuvz

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LOL ....... I would love to get a dual 10" box for under the back seats, problem is I have to keep my fold flat floor if I am to remain married as the wife uses it for grocery shopping, to be fair I use it as well

Talking with a guy from Net Audio and he is saying get my signal from the front doors and the sub

reasoning is the sub alone only will give me 60hz down and if I get the door signal I can get 100 hz down

Now I have no idea what that means other than the sub will be utilized more ? Making it's presence more pronounced ?

Does that make sense ?
You have a bed for the groceries:naughty: Put a tonneau cover on it and call it good. Unless your wife is a short stock like mine, get her a step stool to give her access to the bed:roflsquared:
 

craigsez

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Got both sets of Infinity REF-9622IX 6x9 2 way speakers delivered yesterday
Had some time tonight to get the rear speakers installed. First door took about an hour and 10 minutes and I lost one of the metal clips off the plastic upright and it fell into the door .... :(
Now wondering if I will have a rattle forever as I could not retrieve it, easy enough to grab one form the dealer, just hoping it does not rattle.

After the first door was done the second door took 12 minutes & I did not lose the metal clip....

Experience is everything :)

Playing the same demo song that I used on the fronts (Don't Cha)
Wow, what a difference it seem to expand the sound stage on the high and low end, as well as not coming across as muddy, thye definition is night and day from the stock units.

here is a pic of both units, easy to see how much of a difference there is

21_zpskh8uvomi.jpg

Not sure how much difference it makes you can turn the tweeters to point in specific positions so regardless of install being horizontal or vertical you can point the tweeter towards the ear level, Not sure if it makes a difference, but pretty cool none the less. You can really see the difference in this pic

22_zpsvzb9iy23.jpg

If nothing pops up I hope to install the fronts tomorrow and see how the depth of these work out

Here is one of the speaker installed

23_zpsyloy8hpq.jpg

Did a complete listen start to end and if I gain as much low end as I did in the rear I think I may be happy with the system with out a amp and larger sub solution

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNSxNsr4wmA

DAMN..So sexy its almost ****..
 

craigsez

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My roomie picked up a physically small kicker amp/10" sub and box..I think he said it was around 200 watts..Seems its strong enough to run 10 subs...I dont know the details an all(he is haveing a nap)so i cant ask but from what he says its kicks hard from his factory ford pickup audio system..Oh and he tells me its amp setting are good from 1 ohm to 8 i think..
This might be an option for the alpine set up as well..Ill have to get more details..
 

craigsez

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Found the amp..Wonder if its basically plug n play...Seems to have an auto senceing pick up so that you dont need the extra switching wire..plus a bigger sub..
 

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Hoping the Rockford will do the trick running it at 4 ohms ?
the sub I have has a dual voice coil, supposedly wired in series will be 4 ohms ?
 

sumgruuvz

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Hoping the Rockford will do the trick running it at 4 ohms ?
the sub I have has a dual voice coil, supposedly wired in series will be 4 ohms ?

In series, it'll be 8 ohms if it's a dual 4 ohm sub. In parallel, it'll be 2 ohms. Dual 2 ohm sub in series will be 4 ohm, in parallel, 1 ohm.
 
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trying to use the stock enclosure so I don't have to lose my fold flat floor
That is the entire reason for this, if not happy I may have to consider losing my drivers side fold flat and add another one in an aftermarket enclosure
 

craigsez

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I have seem a few threads on that shallow 8" doin better than stock alpine...How much better is based from one ear to another ..If i remember correctly it got rid of the muddy sub and did add some extra umph but not alot...
I have same issue...I emailed crutchfield and about the amp up above and i was told it wouldnt work but no real reason why...Also told that the amp in the truck runs the entire system,i thought the amp was just for the sub..
 

TomT

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Also told that the amp in the truck runs the entire system,i thought the amp was just for the sub..

The Alpine amp handles crossovers, processing and power amplification. That's why, unless you're just adding a better sub, it's usually better to just bypass it completely.
 
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I have seem a few threads on that shallow 8" doin better than stock alpine...How much better is based from one ear to another ..If i remember correctly it got rid of the muddy sub and did add some extra umph but not alot...
I have same issue...I emailed crutchfield and about the amp up above and i was told it wouldnt work but no real reason why...Also told that the amp in the truck runs the entire system,i thought the amp was just for the sub..

I think the Pioneer does a little better than the stock sub,
Unfortunately it is still not enough IMO , so going to try my luck at pushing it with an amp of it's own
 
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Finally got the amp, line converter and wire kit.
Hoping this gives the 8" Pioneer sub the push I am looking for

Decided to use the LC2i line converter in hopes to eliminate any roll off using their Accu-bass feature.
the amp is a Rockford Fozgate 250 watt mono amp.
After setting the two units up on a board to put on the floor behind the rear seats I was wishing I went with the 250 watt JL amp as it is smaller and being square could bring the outputs out the preferred side as opposed to facing front.
But going to try to make this work, very little space under there, having to buy 90 degree RCA jacks so they don't get hit by the seat in the folded down position. Shame the photo don't work anymore as a picture would say a thousand words
But if anyone looks to emulate this type of install go with the JL amp

Lastly went with the 8 gauge Kicker all copper wiring kit , cheap and prefer copper over the alloy kits

Unfortunately when I updated my head unit it wasted the USB and now waiting for the dealer to get parts in to fix it, so going to wait until that is done before i go with this, Should all work out as Paul over at Net Audio is going to see if he can get an end to plug into my factory sub woofer directly so I don't have to cannibalize the wires making reverting back easy

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fos...99430857&sr=1-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+250

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl...1499430868&sr=1-1&keywords=lc2i+audio+control

https://www.ebay.com/i/391831220888?chn=ps&dispItem=1
 

Spanka

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If you use the factory sub wiring to wire up the LC2I you are limited in frequency to 38-85hz. No need to even set your crossovers on your amp. The LC2I will not help much at all for roll off as the factory crossovers in the factory alpine amp already do this for you and no way to change it. The best thing you can do is buy the PAC amp pro 4 CH41 then run the rca wires back it gives you a true full range to work with. LC2I is 100 bucks the amp pro is 150..
 
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Where can you get it for $ 150

It is the next path if I am not happy, hope it is not necessary though
 

Spanka

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I bought mine new in Houston for 145.. This would have been a better choice i think but now that you have the LC2I I think you will be more than happy. It will do what you want as long as you don't want super low bass. I lived with it for almost a year before I found out that PAC finally made a integration module for this truck. The good thing about the pac unit is if you ever wanted to amp the door speakers the rca outputs are already there for that and its full range clean signal without gain hiss. To do it without the AP4-CH41 you'll need the LC7I to sum all channels and you're still not going to have full signal... ( p.s. wiring the LC7I is crazy I tapped my speaker wires by the amp under the dash just above the emergency break and ran the wires all the way to the back to install it next to my amps..) With the PAC unit you dont have to tap any wires.. Plug and PLAY!!

This system is frustrating and PAC made it not suck as bad, hope this helps.

ALSO, you can daisy chain PAC products together, I have the Nav unlock and extra camera output harness installed PAC BCI-CH41 before the amp pro 4 AP4-CH41 harness so I can watch movies on my nav screen while driving, I can also input nav addresses while driving. It also has a ton of other features that make it a must have for me.. Blind spot camera inputs both sides, front cam input, two rear cam inputs.. I bought that for 180.. when you hit the blinker at 70 mph or less the mirror cam for that direction will come on, pretty cool stuff. you can toggle on the "rear media" cam or what ever you have hooked up to it, in my case I have an Iphone ran to a hdmi to AV converter so my passengers can watch TV on it.
 
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Wow, that sounds cool
thanks for the insight, If I am not happy think I know what direction I am going in :)
 
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Finalized the upgrade yesterday. I am very pleased with the result. The LC2i with it's Accu Bass feature is exactly what the doctor ordered to eliminate the staggering roll off the factory unit provides.

Turned main and bass all the way down & Accu Bass all the way up
On the AMP turned the crossover to about 175 to 200Hz , EQ all the way down and gain to about 3.5 to 4
That is just below the breaking point for the 8" Pioneer sub in the factory enclosure.

The entire system really blends well and gives you a really good listening experience. From the the highs, mids and lows it is a pleasure to listen to music through this set up. Truth be told the factory system really can't be discussed in the same sentence.

Please keep in mind for those of you wanting the bottom end of 2x 10" subs this set will more than likely disappoint. For those of you looking of a a great and balanced sounding set up with no bass roll off on a reasonable budget this may be a good fit for you.

Like I said earlier, may be better off with a amp with a smaller foot print, the JL would give you a bit more room to work with. I really had to shoe horn the Rockford in

Here are all the components , may replace ceiling tweeters yet ? jury still out

Dash Speakers
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R3022CX/Infinity-Reference-REF-3022cfx.html?tp=105&avf=Y

Front and rear doors
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R9622IX/Infinity-Reference-REF-9622IX.html?tp=105&avf=Y

Sub-woofer
https://www.crutchfield.com/g_456350/Replacement-Subs.html?l=Z

Line Converter
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC...Black.html?search=audiocontrol_lc2ib&skipvs=T

Amp
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R250X1/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R250X1.html




All can be had much cheaper on Amazon, just easier to link up at Crutchfield

I got everything for $ 592.00
 
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13bentarm

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Did you use the metra harness for the sub upgrade? I'm installing the same sub, have the harness which requires cutting the speaker ends..just wondering which wires are + and -
 
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