Audio upgrade assistance

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Phylodog

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I’m close to pulling the trigger on a new head unit for my 2013 RCSB. I replaced the speakers with Kicker 44KSc6904 in the rear and Kicker 43CSS674 components up front shortly after I bought the truck. I also bought and installed a Kicker Hideaway sub.

I’m looking at the Kenwood DMX7704S head unit and I plan to run a Kenwood dash cam and back cam eventually. I know just this side of nothing about car audio but I do have an appreciation for good sound. Im hoping someone can verify the compatibility between this head unit and the speakers I have installed.

I’m also hoping for recommendations on whether I should install an amp and whatever else might be needed to have a nice setup. I’m not trying to win any contests nor do I want people to hear me coming a mile away but clarity at decent volume levels and hard hitting base are what I’m hoping for.

I’ve read enough to know we have some very knowledgeable members here. If you’d like to weigh in I would appreciate it. I’m decent with a wrench, know how to solder and I’m not afraid to get my hands dirty so I’d like to do the install myself, I just have zero idea what gets wired where.

Anyone bored and feel like typing? Lol. I’m open to recommendations, not terribly opposed to a new sub but I don’t have much space and would like to keep the tray behind the seat if possible.
 
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adurm

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Pioneer 9605 should give ample power to everything and keep it simple. Only $200 or so. You could get away with the head unit pushing the system but you will be happier with some power behind them. You could put it under the passenger seat and relocate the jack if it's there. Just need some decent rca cables, 4 ga wire for power and ground and a fuse holder. Center seat belt bolt sanded down worked great for my ground.

Amp power wire goes through the clutch delete plate on the firewall. You will need at least 4ga if not 0ga depending on how much power you have. Run that under the driver side door trim. Run the rca and remote turn on down the passenger side. You probably need to cut a metal bit behind the head unit, easy and doesn't compromise anything. I would run fresh speaker wires from the amp all the way to the speaker but you could just tap in behind the Kenwood for the fronts.
 
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TomT

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If you’re not happy with the output of the Hideaway Sub, maybe look into a five or six channel amp. That way you have power available if you decide to swap in a better sub box.

Did a quick search and this JL would be great with a 2 Ohm sub. It’s class D so you get more efficient power in a smaller footprint. Plus JL is a solid brand.

4 x 75w and 1 x 600w (at 2 ohms).

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-amplifiers/c-29-multi-channel/p-12254-xd10005v2-jl-audio-5-channel-1000w-rms-2000w-max-class-d-xd-series-amplifier.html

Pair that amp with one of these subs (you would need a custom enclosure built) and I’d bet it would kick some serious ass in a regular cab.

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-23-subwoofers/c-120-shallow-mount-subwoofers/p-12386-12tw3-d4-jl-audio-12-dual-4-ohm-w3-thin-line-series-subwoofer.html


Tom
 
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