Best way to route subwoofer wiring through the firewall?

I am going to install a subwoofer in my 2013 Bighorn but I haven't quite decided how I will route a power wire through the firewall. Here are pictures under the dash and hood. How has everyone else done this?

Under the dash


Under the hood

I took this picture from my 14 but the circled grommet just left of the steering shaft is in the same spot that I pulled the power wire through one my 2010.

Did you pull it through this heatshrink sleeve? Or did you make a hole in the grommet?

Go through the plug right above that grommet, its for the clutch master cylinder and unbolts from the inside.

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moparman said:

Go through the plug right above that grommet, its for the clutch master cylinder and unbolts from the inside.

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This.^

This is where I went through on my 2008 Ram, it's the perfect spot.

Now on my 13 once I get into buying a replacement sub and amp this is where i'll be routing my power wire as well.

I did it through the plate also, plastic is nice and easy to work with when you are using a step bit. Just take it slow and cut to exact size you need.

Did you guys put a rubber grommet on the wire or just drill a hole just big enough for the wire?

Any recommendations on grommets? I'm sure Ace or Home Depot has something...

You can remove the plate entirely and find a grommet to fit the hole or drill out the plate big enough to fit the wire and send it through and seal it with silicone once youre all done

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Always use a gromet, some wire casing wears away very easily over time and abs plastic can be pretty abbrasive.

I have decided that I am going to place a panel mount connector on that plate with Molex's MX150L 8 AWG series connectors. I am only running a single 10" sub so good quality 8 AWG is plenty.

Its not really the size of the woofer, its about how much power. I know of tens that will take 10k watts, but really as long as you are staying under 600w rms you should be ok. I personally change equipment enough that I like to run 4 awg or bigger but thats me. That is a pretty cool connector do you mind if I asked where you found it? Good luck with your install.

Etroze86 said:

Its not really the size of the woofer, its about how much power. I know of tens that will take 10k watts, but really as long as you are staying under 600w rms you should be ok. I personally change equipment enough that I like to run 4 awg or bigger but thats me. That is a pretty cool connector do you mind if I asked where you found it? Good luck with your install.

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The quality of cable really makes a difference; but I understand your point. I am only using a single 10" Kicker COMP. The cable I used is called Wet Noodle.

As for the connector, I looked for hours trying to find a low gauge panel mount connector. Finally, I found one from Molex after searching Samtec, Digikey, TE Connectivity, and many others. Actually I got these connectors for free via Molex's samples system, see the part numbers below.

If you really wanted to you could use both connectors for two 8 AWG in parallel. Or Molex has other connectors in this series as well.

I will update this post with more pictures when I install the connector.

Part numbers to enter into Molex's sample system:
Female connector: 19436-0214
Female pin: 19434-0002
Male connector: 19432-0014
Male pin: 19431-0015

Ah yes quality of cable does matter I should've said I really only run 4awg or larger oxygen free copper (ofc). I find generally you get what you pay for when talking wire and the cheaper it is the more casing there is. I will have to keep that web site we have a couple of cars and trucks that we are going to be wiring up for new small blocks being put in so keeping wiring neat is always a plus.

Here is an update of the connector installed in the clutch plate mount. It is actually installed in the truck but I don't have pictures of that; will post later.

I finally got around to finishing the install. Here are the pictures and details.

Line out converter (LOC): Navone Engineering Inc. » N-RHL2 2 Channel, 50 Watt per channel, Line Output Converter

Here are the basic steps to install the LOC
1) Remove the lower B-pillar cover (just pops off), you will also need to remove cover at the base of both front and rear doors
2) Reach into the B-pillar and remove the large 14-pin connector that goes to the rear door
3) Remove some wire insulation on the follow colored wires

• Driver's side positive: Grey with dark green stripe

• Driver's side negative: Grey with lime green stripe

• Passenger's side positive: Green with lime green stripe

• Passenger's side negative: Green with white stripe

4) Solder wires onto them and electrical tape up, you can additionally remove the snap in connector and put heat shrink over the connection
5) Run the wires to the amp
6) Done

Here are some pictures of the process

Wire ready to have connector installed (before my previous post)


Striped insulation with LOC wires installed


Red/black twisted wire going to rear of truck, zip-tied onto the existing wire harness


Wires under plastic cover beneath the rear driver's side seat




LOC installed


Amp wiring almost completed, a little advertising for Tektronix






I'm not sure what exactly this connector is for under the rear seats but it can be used as a remote wire because it turns on/off with the key, here is a link to the pin that you need


Where I grounded the amp

I like the plug thing you mounted on the plate.That's a really good idea.