Dome light/Fuse

bucks130 said:

I have a 2014 quad cab and did a quick search on alldata for you. Didn't see any fuses specific to the dome light...looks like they are all controlled by the BUS system in the truck...but lists a 40amp green fuse in slot F12 for interior lights. If all other lights are working, fuse should be fine.

That being said, in the 2014 the dome light has a 3 pin connector. If looking at the connector with the clip on the top, it reads pin 1, 2, 3 starting on the right side and going left.

Pin 1 (yellow/light blue) is the reading light driver
Pin 2 (yellow/violet) is the courtesy light driver
Pin 3 (black) is ground

I would check voltage in this connector, assuming 12V.

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Rado said:

Thank you for your reply,, I saw that 40 amp fuse did not make sense to me lol I did check for power and I do have 12.4v to ground either side of the light bulb , so I am assuming a bad ground ? I will be switching my winter tires over to summer tires soon so I will let the dealer do it since I am in warranty I did not want to look like a ******** and take in in for a blown fuse or bulb lol Thanks again at least someone chimed in after all the looker s lol

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bucks130 said:

No problem. Yeah it may just be something in the bus as well that isn't being passed out to the bulb. Are you sure the bulb is good? Did you read any resistance at all thru it?

Also, what about the tabs that hold it in place. Maybe they are loose for some reason and providing a weak connection? Can prolly take some pliers and give them a little squeeze to hold it tighter. I see that kind of problem a lot with the battery tabs in remote controls. The fix for that is putting in some foil to help tighten the connection.

Anyways just some other things to maybe try if you get bored. Let us know what the dealer finds out if you don't first

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Rado said:

Buck , yea the bulb show resistance and fits tight ! I 'll just let the dealer sort it out easier that way lol Thanks again

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bucks130 said:

any updates to what happened with your light?

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Rado said:

Not yet, I get back from vacatio nest week and I will update when I get it fixed

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bucks130 said:

Sweet deal! Enjoy it before it's over!

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Rado said:

My vacation got better when I found out my daughter in law is pregnant

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bucks130 said:

I have a 2014 quad cab and did a quick search on alldata for you. Didn't see any fuses specific to the dome light...looks like they are all controlled by the BUS system in the truck...but lists a 40amp green fuse in slot F12 for interior lights. If all other lights are working, fuse should be fine.

That being said, in the 2014 the dome light has a 3 pin connector. If looking at the connector with the clip on the top, it reads pin 1, 2, 3 starting on the right side and going left.

Pin 1 (yellow/light blue) is the reading light driver
Pin 2 (yellow/violet) is the courtesy light driver
Pin 3 (black) is ground

I would check voltage in this connector, assuming 12V.

Click to expand...

BlownGP said:

So, old thread but my interior dome lights don't come on when you open the door or use the remote.

They work if you push on them but nothing else. Not even the switch on the headlight switch.
Checked the one fuse under the hood and it's fine.

This was a good read.
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t22153_ds617821

But I don't seem to have any of those other problems that would trigger it, but I do suspect it might some wires in the that run from the door to the cab.

Any other ideas?

Thanks

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Gixxer750 said:

Sad to say but there is literally a circuit board made of tin foil on the inside of your overhead consol. Grab a meter that rings continuity and start testing?

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BlownGP said:

Well I drove to work today and found out I have no horn, steering wheel controls don't work, and the all the buttons on the center console. Tow/haul, heated/cooled seats etc.



https://www.ramforum.com/threads/steering-wheel-controls-not-working.135158/

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El Huapo said:

You're in a wet area. I used to be likewise. Corrosion of ground connection points was a huge issue for me. I got a tube of "No-Alox"---Electricians' grease---for connections and used it when I located a corroded ground point. Solved them one at a time that way. The first one I would always do on an older car was the big ground coming from the battery to the frame.

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Gixxer750 said:

No lox. De-ox, and the like are made for aluminum wire connections pretty exclusively. Not honna lie we cheat it for other stuff, but its best to just sand-reattatch-and hit it with some spray paint or whatever. The oxidation inhibitors are not exactly ment to be dielectric. (Kind of neutral omg a lame electrical joke!)

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El Huapo said:

You're in a wet area. I used to be likewise. Corrosion of ground connection points was a huge issue for me. I got a tube of "No-Alox"---Electricians' grease---for connections and used it when I located a corroded ground point. Solved them one at a time that way. The first one I would always do on an older car was the big ground coming from the battery to the frame.

Click to expand...