Full kicker upgrade, Sub is too much-HELP.

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mhb1638

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As title suggests, I have upgraded my base audio (with 8.4 NAV) to all Mopar/Kicker replacements. As it stands now, things sound better....but holy ****....The sub is insane!! I have the bass set to -7. This results in insane trebs from the front dash which have treb to -4.

Is there ANY WAY possible to have an adjustment for just the sub? Since its all highlevel factory, I don't know if that's possible. But even at -7, the bass is very punchy and overkill. Any input?
 

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How is it connected to the head unit?
 

Eestee70

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If it's connected right ( I sure you know what you're doing) you should be sending a full range signal into the VSS and that should equalize everything to give you a balanced sound
 

autokraftgt

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Does fade control effect sub output at all? I honestly don't know the factory system too well that's why I ask? Maybe fade forward will take some umph away from the sub
 

WilliamS

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The kicker upgrade in the Fords is the same way, adds way too much bass and overpowers the factory setup.

Fade forward will help, the suggestion above mine is a good one as well, this will give you control of the volume of the sub without needing to fade it. As long as your are handy. There are other ways but this would give you some tuning ability to balance it into the mix.
 
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mhb1638

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Does fade control effect sub output at all? I honestly don't know the factory system too well that's why I ask? Maybe fade forward will take some umph away from the sub
Fade helps...but creates another issue LOL. Fade to the front reduces the sub output, but makes the kicker tweeters in the dash INSANELY LOUD.

Split the line going to the woofer in half and use this. You will need to wire some RCA ends on the speaker wire, but this could get the job done for you.

PAC LC-1 UNIVERSAL CAR AMPLIFIER BASS KNOB RCA LEVEL AMP VOLUME CONTROL KNOB LC1 | eBay
Thanks I will look into this!
The kicker upgrade in the Fords is the same way, adds way too much bass and overpowers the factory setup.

Fade forward will help, the suggestion above mine is a good one as well, this will give you control of the volume of the sub without needing to fade it. As long as your are handy. There are other ways but this would give you some tuning ability to balance it into the mix.

Thanks bud. The fading helped but made other areas annoying. What I'm noticing is by reducing the bass to -6 has forced me to reduce the treble to -4 because the lack of bass in other areas has made the highs VERY high. One song will sound fine, then the next will pound the windows. I'm 40 years old, I don't want bass like I was 16 and at a football game. I want clean sound.
 
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mhb1638

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Split the line going to the woofer in half and use this. You will need to wire some RCA ends on the speaker wire, but this could get the job done for you.

PAC LC-1 UNIVERSAL CAR AMPLIFIER BASS KNOB RCA LEVEL AMP VOLUME CONTROL KNOB LC1 | eBay

I have no problem doing the work, I know a few things here and there...But I'm trying to figure out how this would work. The way this thing works is you tap into the factory amp. then run that to the Kicker amp. Then the Kicker amp runs to the sub.
 

adrianp89

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I've never done it this way, but in theory I don't know why it wouldn't work. All this does is control voltage.

If you put in-line with your subwoofer speaker wires, it would control voltage going to the woofer. If the amp has RCAs (which I don't think it does), then that would be the better route. But even then RCAs still transit voltage, although a bit lower.
 
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mhb1638

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I've never done it this way, but in theory I don't know why it wouldn't work. All this does is control voltage.

If you put in-line with your subwoofer speaker wires, it would control voltage going to the woofer. If the amp has RCAs (which I don't think it does), then that would be the better route. But even then RCAs still transit voltage, although a bit lower.

yeah its all plug and play, no RCAs.
 
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mhb1638

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If I understand this.....the line going to the sub I would cut. I would need 2 kicker RCA pieces from above link. Wire coming from amp would go into 1 kicker piece would would go to input of bass controller, then the output would go into another kicker splice and then into the wire I cut leading to the sub??

Just making sure I'm on the same page
 

adrianp89

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Yes, in theory this should work so you can control the output of the subwoofer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

adrianp89

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Just buy everything from Wal-Mart - if it doesn't work - return it. I am pretty confident in it will work, however I have never done this so I can't make a guarantee.
 

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If you don't have the Alpine, the front amp makes a HUGE change, really brings the factory speakers to life, and a huge change in the sound stage.
The 200w is bass heavy on a non-changed front setup. Taking it down on the HU is the only way, there is no remote gain accessible on the VSS sub setup.
 
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mhb1638

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If you don't have the Alpine, the front amp makes a HUGE change, really brings the factory speakers to life, and a huge change in the sound stage.
The 200w is bass heavy on a non-changed front setup. Taking it down on the HU is the only way, there is no remote gain accessible on the VSS sub setup.

GRAYGOOSE I was waiting on you to jump in....So....in your mind, I need to find an amp for the speakers....? Any brand? Any particular brand or setup? Right now, the sound is out of control. I have excessive highs and excessive bass no matter how far I move the slider down. So, a 4 channel amp will boost the highs enough to compensate the sub??
 
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