Grrrrrr, broken wiring connector on projector headlights

Hey all,
Was taking the advise of others in the forums for condensation in the headlights by making sure the vent caps were open. Removed/reinstalled drivers side headlight, no issues at all. Went to the passenger side, came out no problem but when I went to reinstall it the plastic retainer clip on the main connector literally just fell out in my hand. I looked closely (or so I thought) and couldn't see anything broken. I lined it up to where I thought it went, pushed it in and the sucka broke right in half. It's plugged in and the headlight/directional is working but am concerned about it vibrating out/come loose. Does anyone have any ideas on this connector? Is it multiple pieces like it seemed? Is it a harness adapter that I can replace? Part numbers? Bit frustrated... 500 miles on the truck, should of just brought it to the dealer for the condensation but should have been a simple fix. Spent a few hours already searching, coming up blank. Reached out to Jeremy at Retro Shop for advice as well. 2016 1500 Rebel with factory projectors.
Thanks,
-Brian

This should not had happened. This is the same process you would had needed to do to just change out a blown light bulb. If you have a dealer that cares about customers, then they should easily get this covered under your warranty. It even wouldn't need to be be dishonest.

I'd tell your dealer what happened and try to get warranty for it. I pulled the lights out of my 2014 probably 50 times (or more, seriously.) And didn't ever have anything like that happen.

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You can talk to your dealer and see what they'll do. Technically they don't really have to do anything. Mopar sells a repair kit - its p/n 68305265AA and around $100.

If it were me, I'd carefully de-pin the existing connector and move them over to a new one I purchased without the crazy Mopar markup.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_Prod...-AMP/1719105-1/&qs=o4qE4s2E%2bcwOaZWXUdF2TQ==

00R/T said:

You can talk to your dealer and see what they'll do. Technically they don't really have to do anything. Mopar sells a repair kit - its p/n 68305265AA and around $100.

If it were me, I'd carefully de-pin the existing connector and move them over to a new one I purchased without the crazy Mopar markup.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/m_Prod...-AMP/1719105-1/&qs=o4qE4s2E%2bcwOaZWXUdF2TQ==

Click to expand...

I agree that they really don't have to do anything. I mucked with it, I broke it (how, I don't know!), I own it. At least that's my philosophy. Do you know if 68305265AA is an actual harness that can just plug right in or is it simply the connector? Everything I'm seeing online says no image available with it being "wiring 14 way".

chopperman1 said:

I agree that they really don't have to do anything. I mucked with it, I broke it (how, I don't know!), I own it. At least that's my philosophy. Do you know if 68305265AA is an actual harness that can just plug right in or is it simply the connector? Everything I'm seeing online says no image available with it being "wiring 14 way".

Click to expand...

The Mopar repair kits are typically empty connector housings and short wire leads with pins crimper on. They're designed to be used by cutting off what's left of the connector, soldering leads to the existing vehicle wiring, and then populating the connector.

You didn't "muck" with it. You didn't do anything different than you would had needed to do to change a headlight bulb.

Sir John said:

You didn't "muck" with it. I didn't do anything different than you would had needed to do to change a headlight bulb.

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Hmmmm, very true, didn't think of it that way!

00R/T said:

The Mopar repair kits are typically empty connector housings and short wire leads with pins crimper on. They're designed to be used by cutting off what's left of the connector, soldering leads to the existing vehicle wiring, and then populating the connector.

Click to expand...

Not liking that idea.... Re-pinning old might be the way to go, saves all the splices. Going to try and back trace the cable tomorrow and see if there are any other connectors along the way.... wish full thinking... On my 2011 with Quads the cable coming in was different, maybe it goes back to a common point and they put cable "a" on for quads or cable "b: for projectors.

chopperman1 said:

Not liking that idea.... Re-pinning old might be the way to go, saves all the splices. Going to try and back trace the cable tomorrow and see if there are any other connectors along the way.... wish full thinking... On my 2011 with Quads the cable coming in was different, maybe it goes back to a common point and they put cable "a" on for quads or cable "b: for projectors.

Click to expand...

I know it's a different connector on my '11, but I managed to break one too. Bought a new connector and wire leads from the stealer, but instead of soldering I just removed the pins from the busted connector and put them in the new one. If you can buy just the empty connector then even better.

smoothee said:

I know it's a different connector on my '11, but I managed to break one too. Bought a new connector and wire leads from the stealer, but instead of soldering I just removed the pins from the busted connector and put them in the new one. If you can buy just the empty connector then even better.

Click to expand...

I was trying to install HIDs in my projectors in my new ram (1500 miles) on it and the connector pin broke as well ...68305265aa is the number I found as well... but 2 questions

1. How do you break the old one

2. How do you put the numbers in the correct order / holes and which orientation?