Installing OEM backup cam

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70chall440

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Ok, I will post more pics. Here is the pic from the splice under the Power Distro Center (PDC). Used an exacto knife to remove the insulation, wrapped the new red wire around the bare wire from the PDC (Note: this wire is the 5th from the right on the top row. The instructions say PK/YT which is pink with a yellow tracer, unfortunately there are 5 there). I used a continuity meter to make sure this wire was the one running to the 10a park view fuse. The instructions say to use the provided crimp to secure the wires then solder them, then to wrap them in the provided heat shrink, however since you don't cut the existing wire there isn't any way to get the heat shrink on there, so I coated it in liquid tape (available at any auto parts store) and wrapped it in electrical tape. Also, installing the crimp correctly requires the Mopar tool, a common pair of pliers works ok.
 

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70chall440

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Sorry to go backwards but better late than never. Here is the tailgate extension. Not sure why it is even there but the short of it is that the end coming out of the tailgate is a female connector, the end on the main harness is also female so Mopar uses this extension to connect the two. The problem is that the kit has a mail connector and tells you to remove the 2 locking tailgate wires (dark green and light green) and insert them into the new harness male connector; the problem here is that the existing wires have male ends (pins) which will not work. So, you pull the white plug out of one end of the extension, cut the wires at the other end, then you can reach into the end you pulled the white plug out of, lift the female connector up and push the wires out. You end up with the right connector and about 6" of wire which you will have to connect to the 2 existing wires in the main harness (solder and heat shrink).
 

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Mpgrimm2

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Good work on the pictures.
Especially the PDC power wire and explanation. I think the directions intend for that power wire to be cut through, both ends stripped, slide the heat shrink over one end and the new wire, then twist, crimp and solder all 3 back together and heat shrink the new joint. Personally, I hate breaking a perfectly good conductor If I can help it and your solution with the liquid tape is a solid alternative.

I can't say for sure since my install with Jeepguy's Custom harnesses was slightly different but from reading the Official Kit's directions I 'believe' that you shouldn't have had to cut any wires at the back near the tailgate like that to change pins from male to female unless it is to extend those wires because of the modified bumper you have. If you are at the correct "body side tailgate connector", you should have had female pins.

Instead, the new chassis/Camera harness gets the original 2 female lock solenoid pins added to it at pins 7 & 8 (i550) which in turn plugs into that 6 inch tailgate extension, which goes to the bottom connector of the tailgate/harness.

Honestly, I never realized the extension was there at all since it and the main tailgate harness were already in my truck's tailgate (likely because of the existing power tailgate lock). If I may ask, what is your Trim Level and vin to hunt for your Tech Authority schematics? (maybe its a 2014 thing or the factory messed up the harness and the extension was their fix).

The i550 connector should be one end of that extension and should have been originally secured at one end near the spare tire. I would imagine the purpose of the extension is to serve as a wear and tear item, taking the abuse of the tailgate opening and closing so that it is cheaper to replace that extension than the tailgate or chassis harness on either side.


It sounds like you will be able to get it all worked out, but I went ahead and pulled these pictures from Jeepguy's DIY Camera (Custom Harness) thread OP to show the location of i550 connector I am talking about with the 2 female lock solenoid pins from the existing chassis harness that must be moved to the new camera chassis harness' connector.
Hopefully it will help clarify the directions further.

I might be wrong, but that's my understanding since cptwing didn't mention having to do that with the same kit. I may have to go take a look under my truck again if I get up before the snow gets here today and double check. Hmm.

8/1/15 Edit: Added i550 tailgate extension note/picture.

1-27-16 EDIT:
Post 586 & 587 - ** i550 tailgate connector info links & disassembly pictures to help with moving the 2 lock wires **
 

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Mpgrimm2

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And for those that make it to the back of the radio connector, I rotated the image from the directions and hopefully will have a picture to add from 70chall440.

NOTE:
If it was pins 1-3 that you swapped with 31 - 33. Here are the colors that are supposed to be there...
Pin # / ID# / Color / Description
1 D75 __ GY __ CAN C (+)
2 D177 _ DB __ CAN IHS (+)
3 R41 __ LB/VT AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT SIGNAL

Hopefully it didn't do anything too bad to the Radio, Can Bus, or BCM.
May try disconnecting the battery for a while, reconnecting, and seeing if it does anything. RLK had his screen go blank, disconnected Battery for 8 hrs, and it came back up.

NOTE.... VIEW IS FROM THE BACK OF THE CONNECTOR IN CASE YOU OVERLOOK IT !!!

9-29-16 EDIT:
For those that need assistance getting any existing pins out of the connector (depopulating pins):
NOTE: The red TPA Lock will have to be removed to install or remove any pins.

Tyco/AMP doesn't seem to have an instruction sheet for the Radio C1 connector, but I pieced this together from a few places.

To depopulate, you will need to remove the Red TPA lock, then use a small screwdriver (likely less than 2mm wide)to release the individual pin lock so that you can pull the wire out the back (with very little force).
(pin lock will be above or below the pin. Not sure if you access it from front or back, probably the back).

Snipet Below (from 8.4 conversion harness 8pin Molex connector ):
The retainers for the individual pins are accessed from the rear of the connector and must be moved toward the outside of the connector. You'll want to push in on the wire to get it off the tab, pry the tab up toward the outside of the connector, and then slide the pin out to the rear. I have a connector depopulating kit and one of the tools made it super easy to lift up the tab. But, you should be able to do it with a jeweler's screwdriver and some patience.

EDIT:
M2M VIDEO - Working with 4th Gen ram radio connector for Backup Camera wiring & Reroute


Official backup Cam Addon kit 82214240 Radio Pins.jpg

Radio Harness B Radio Side C1.jpg



General TPA Depopulate steps.jpg

Mpg2 Tailgate 11a-1 v2.jpg
 

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Mpgrimm2

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MediaFire is free and will handle it.

Here are the current Ram/Chrysler OEM kit directions (and P/N's) for adding the factory Parkview Camera to 2013-2015 Ram Trucks depending on your Trim Level/radio i.e. Express/RA1 vs rest/RA2,RA3,RA4.

- PN 82213752 (RA1 Radios w/o RSP, adds Mirror as Monitor, i.e. Express)
$525 parts/$765 installed at dealership
K6861692 2013 Ram1500 ParkView Cam w Mirror Monitor noMic PN 82213752

- PN 82214240 (RA2, RA3, RA4 Radios as monitor)
$300 parts/$507 installed at dealership
K6862043 2013-2015 Ram Parkview Cam w RA2 RA3 RA4 Radio Monitor PN 82214240


68197873AA Handle with Camera Provisions

I must be bored (I should be asleep now).

I went ahead and compared both sets of directions from the 2 kits above and I believe the Camera/Chassis Harness that goes from the tailgate through the firewall boot is the same in both kits.

It has the same 8 pin connector and color codes under the dash and it looks like the 8 pin connector allows for either of 2 harnesses... one harness option to go to the back of the radio/monitor, and another harness option to go to the back of the mirror if it is used as the monitor in Express trucks. Although it looks like the Express truck option is pulling switched power from behind the 12v Swiched /lighter outlet on the lower left radio panel vs at the PDC under the hood.

It would be nice to find the wiring schematics for these 2 kits on the Tech Authority site to be sure (something to hunt for later).

It really is a fairly flexible solution the Ram engineers came up with.
 
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70chall440

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Good work on the pictures.
Especially the PDC power wire and explanation. I think the directions intend for that power wire to be cut through, both ends stripped, slide the heat shrink over one end and the new wire, then twist, crimp and solder all 3 back together and heat shrink the new joint. Personally, I hate breaking a perfectly good conductor If I can help it and your solution with the liquid tape is a solid alternative.

I can't say for sure since my install with Jeepguy's Custom harnesses was slightly different but from reading the Official Kit's directions I 'believe' that you shouldn't have had to cut any wires at the back near the tailgate like that to change pins from male to female unless it is to extend those wires because of the modified bumper you have. If you are at the correct "body side tailgate connector", you should have had female pins.

Instead, the new chassis/Camera harness gets the original 2 female lock solenoid pins added to it at pins 7 & 8 (i550) which in turn plugs into that 6 inch tailgate extension, which goes to the bottom connector of the tailgate/harness.

Honestly, I never realized the extension was there at all since it and the main tailgate harness were already in my truck's tailgate (likely because of the existing power tailgate lock). If I may ask, what is your Trim Level and vin to hunt for your Tech Authority schematics? (maybe its a 2014 thing or the factory messed up the harness and the extension was their fix).

The i550 connector should be one end of that extension and should have been originally secured at one end near the spare tire. I would imagine the purpose of the extension is to serve as a wear and tear item, taking the abuse of the tailgate opening and closing so that it is cheaper to replace that extension than the tailgate or chassis harness on either side.


It sounds like you will be able to get it all worked out, but I went ahead and pulled these pictures from Jeepguy's DIY Camera (Custom Harness) thread OP to show the location of i550 connector I am talking about with the 2 female lock solenoid pins from the existing chassis harness that must be moved to the new camera chassis harness' connector.
Hopefully it will help clarify the directions further.

I might be wrong, but that's my understanding since cptwing didn't mention having to do that with the same kit. I may have to go take a look under my truck again if I get up before the snow gets here today and double check. Hmm.


Sent from my "Up All Night Sleep All Day" Nexus 5!

thanks; I have a Big Horn VIN 3C6TR5DT8EG139632. In the picture of the i550 connector, on my truck I had 2 of those; one just underneath the tailgate and the other on the main harness. The extension or jumper went between the two. As for having to cut the 2 wires, there wasn't any other way to accomplish the connection.
 

70chall440

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And for those that make it to the back of the radio connector, I rotated the image from the directions and hopefully will have a picture to add from 70chall440.

@cptwing, if its not too intrusive of me, have you considered modifying your thread title to avoid confusion with Jeepguy's DIY camera thread (which can't be modified)?
i.e. Installing the "Official OEM backup camera add-on kits" (82214240 & 82213752)

I will get a picture of the radio connector once I get there. I have to get to the BCM first.
 

70chall440

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Ok, so I got the amp removed (that is exactly what it is). got to the BCM, now it is saying to remove the housing? There isn't much room to work under there so I am not sure exactly what to do now.
 

nickster

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It is the hardest part of the install. The only way I could do it was to slide a workout bench over to the driver side to hold my romp up as I lay on my right shoulder. I also detached the driver side kick panel and one connector to it. I left the hood release attached and slid the kick panel under the brake. That gave me just enough room to barely get my left hand up there also. The C5 connector has a release button in center of handle. After disconnecting C5 just work it down as far as it will come. I took some of the tape off to make it flexible. Separate the housing like shown in image below. I also released org/db wire pin 45 from connector so I could move it in any direction. How you splice to it is personal preference but I cut the org/db wire and used a butt end to end splice to get the purple wire connected. Tape splice and any area you removed tape real good.
 

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70chall440

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a couple of questions;

1. how did you remove the kick panel? Sure I could figure it out but I dropped a screw down there.

2. so, the part I am having difficulty understanding is the part in the instructions is where it says "release the housing". do you understand that?

3. so you are saying the org/db is the wire I am after? I am having a very hard time figuring out what pin 45 is/where.
 

70chall440

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Oh and the gymnastics it takes to get under the dash is very special... I had to remove the amp (lost screw is a result of this effort).
 

nickster

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Remove two screws at bottom of kick panel and grab below steering column and pull.

The housing is the outer part of the connector. If you look at photo above you can see where the connector has one small hump on the side and the housing has a square opening where the hump slides into. Separate by pushing hump in and slide it out.

It is the orange wire with dark blue stripe.
 

70chall440

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So I figured out some of my confusion; first after looking at the connector, it appears that the housing does indeed come off by popping off 2 side tabs (this is the part of the instructions that say "remove the housing" I couldn't get my head around.

Next, my connector does not look like yours or the one in the diagram (see attached picture). I am pretty sure this is the C5 as there isn't anything else even remotely close to it left in the BCM.
 

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70chall440

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So if you look at the picture (this is yours obviously), I don't have these 2 grey side blocks unless they are under the cover.
 

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