Installing OEM backup cam

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jcarden10

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I only have the wiring harness hat was supplied, the ground and the power lines for the camera. I'm just not sure if I'm splicing a power wire to the BCM or looking for a signal wire on the wiring harness itself to splice to the BCM.


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Sounds like you bought the "Aftermarket OE Style" camera kit that they offer instead of the "Genuine Mopar" kit. This thread is specifically for the OEM backup camera kit, which if you are buying from infotainment would be the "Genuine Mopar" kit. I have no experience with their aftermarket kit, but looking at their install guide it looks like the camera with that kit has guidelines, but they are not setup to bend/turn with the steering wheel.


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R.L.K.

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Bump on a great thread , very informative just go to post # 10 for tons of info !

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BoldAdventure

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Has anyone done a Camera relocation for the tailgate? I'm getting a custom bumper built right now with swing out tire carrier. Tire no matter it's position on the tailgate will block the camera. Trying to find a way to relocate it.

Or if you can, does anyone know what kind of connector this is, so I can make an extension?
 

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Mpgrimm2

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Has anyone done a Camera relocation for the tailgate? I'm getting a custom bumper built right now with swing out tire carrier. Tire no matter it's position on the tailgate will block the camera. Trying to find a way to relocate it.

Or if you can, does anyone know what kind of connector this is, so I can make an extension?
The easiest option would be to just cut and splice/solder/heatshrink in an extension on that camera/lock harness on your picture.

If not using the tailgate lock, you could go ahead and remove the lock solenoid wiring from the modified harness at the same time.

I believe @Deereguy may have found a PN/source for the actual camera connector. He will likely reply one way or another.

Edit:
I will add that somewhere in the last 10 or so pages of this thread is a post I made listing the male i550 connector (by the spare tire/bumper) and Terminals to tie in an aftermarket camera, bypassing the harnesses in the tailgate. Might also be an option. If I find it, I will post a link.


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BoldAdventure

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The easiest option would be to just cut and splice/solder/heatshrink in an extension on that camera/lock harness on your picture.

If not using the tailgate lock, you could go ahead and remove the lock solenoid wiring from the modified harness at the same time.

I believe @Deereguy may have found a PN/source for the actual camera connector. He will likely reply one way or another.

Edit:
I will add that somewhere in the last 10 or so pages of this thread is a post I made listing the male i550 connector (by the spare tire/bumper) and Terminals to tie in an aftermarket camera, bypassing the harnesses in the tailgate. Might also be an option. If I find it, I will post a link.


Thanks really helpful information. I'll have to dig around, I saw some of you were making or selling harnesses.

I took apart the tailgate and found that i550 connector, and I'm thinking of making a pass-through with a split. So I can run an aftermarket camera, still have functional keyfob locking tailgate with the tire carrier. And when I remove the tire carrier, I can unplug the bypass harness.
 

Fireman_LGWI

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RA1 to RA2 upgrade in an Ecodiesel

Wow This is a long thread! I have a 2016 Ecodiesel with a RA1 and rearview camera in the mirror. Installed a RA2 and looking for a harness to go from the passenger side air vent connector to the back of the radio C1 connector. (pins 31,32,33).
 

DeereGuy

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Wow This is a long thread! I have a 2016 Ecodiesel with a RA1 and rearview camera in the mirror. Installed a RA2 and looking for a harness to go from the passenger side air vent connector to the back of the radio C1 connector. (pins 31,32,33).



Send MPGrimm2 a PM. He can hook you up.


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longbowdog

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Oem bu

Wonder if that will work on my 2017 Tradesman C/Chassis
 

Mpgrimm2

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Wonder if that will work on my 2017 Tradesman C/Chassis

It should be the same as other 2017 trucks that have been done already.

Do you currently have an RA2 (or higher) radio installed and a mopar backup camera/wiring installed on your Chassis Cab? (no bed/tailgate?).

Some places/dealers will send it to a local car audio shop to install an aftermarket camera setup and not tell the customer. A recent member with a chassis cab/5th wheel setup ran into this.

I saw some of your posts looking for a radio and asking about camera wiring. PM me your phone # & Vin and I will give you a call before I go to work (I have an hour) to see if we can figure it out.

Post up your details of what you have done/upgraded so far.
 

longbowdog

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It should be the same as other 2017 trucks that have been done already.



Do you currently have an RA2 (or higher) radio installed and a mopar backup camera/wiring installed on your Chassis Cab? (no bed/tailgate?).



Some places/dealers will send it to a local car audio shop to install an aftermarket camera setup and not tell the customer. A recent member with a chassis cab/5th wheel setup ran into this.



I saw some of your posts looking for a radio and asking about camera wiring. PM me your phone # & Vin and I will give you a call before I go to work (I have an hour) to see if we can figure it out.



Post up your details of what you have done/upgraded so far.



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longbowdog

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That's awesome, thanks. Yea, it had a RA1 and I upgraded to RA2 and I know the C/C model did have a wire and plug that ran all the way back to the rear of the truck. I'm confident I would have to just buy the camera and splice plug and play jumper. I would think I would have to just get the dealer to flash the radio after I install the camera and splice. Now I do have a manual transmission, so not sure how that affects the configuration


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Mpgrimm2

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That's awesome, thanks. Yea, it had a RA1 and I upgraded to RA2 and I know the C/C model did have a wire and plug that ran all the way back to the rear of the truck. I'm confident I would have to just buy the camera and splice plug and play jumper. I would think I would have to just get the dealer to flash the radio after I install the camera and splice. Now I do have a manual transmission, so not sure how that affects the configuration


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You may still be missing other wiring. See post 10 for the schematic and specifially post 1250 to verify the wiring at the 4 connectors...
http://www.ramforum.com/showthread.php?p=1489680

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longbowdog

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Awesome, thanks. I will check it out when I can crawl under to look. If I have it, I should be gtg then


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ram4eva

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I think you guys are going thru too much trouble, get navtool from navtool.com $200 solves all your camera problems and its made in the USA
 

Mpgrimm2

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Mpgrimm2

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Small bump for the few of you with a 13-15 8.4 radio, backup camera in the mirror and cargo cam on the radio... Who took the v17.x fw update and your Cameras are all screwed up (njcummins reported this or something very similar previously)..

Here's a great thread with some important details (& videos ! ) that I will link to post 10 and/or repost here as soon as I get the time on my PC to edit it correctly.

762-MM'S :
Uconnect 17.11.17 & RAMs with Cargo & Rear Cameras in Separate Displays


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Mpgrimm2

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personally I use NavTool interface form NavTool.com

you can add Apple Carplay or phone mirroring and most important you can install front and side lane watch cameras. especially side cameras are great for blind spot

chek it out - https://www.navtool.com/dodge-ram-2013-2018small-smartphone-mirroring-category.aspx
Have you installed the v17.x software update on your 8.4 radio yet? Most people will be curious if your NavTv interface continues to work after the update (since other brands are being broken by it)

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Purplert

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Originally had the RA1 radio, I purchased the 82314240 tailgate camera thinking it would work just fine since I was switching to a Pioneer headunit and didn't want the mirror back up camera. Had the code added prior to finishing up the wiring while I was having a oil change done. Should this work? A quick installation of the aftermarket deck with Maestro seems that it doesn't work do I need to wire it a different way or should I have the dealer verify the code is still on there.


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