Bigtymes
Senior Member
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2017
- Posts
- 106
- Reaction score
- 27
- Ram Year
- 2016
- Engine
- Hemi 5.7
I am trying to build a system for my 2016 Ram Crew Cab. This will be only the 2nd system I have ever built. My first was easy as I was younger, and had a suburban. I had all the room in the world to get loud, which I accomplished. I am older now, and while I still want to thump, I am more concerned with the clarity and overall sound quality of the entire system. I am looking at doing a complete system which is going to cost me for the install. Before I go any further, I will mention that I have researched this daily for over a month, minimum of an hour or 2 each day. So I have read a lot, and everything you read is different. I understand that it is mostly individual's opinions. With that being said, I want to let you all know where I am at at the moment (if you don't like the brands I respect that, and would appreciate constructive criticism and recommendations over brand bashing and name calling) and see if I am on the right track or if I have completely wasted the few hours daily the past month or two. I have looked at all the stat's tediously, and just wanting someone with more knowledge than myself who knows what will sound accurate and good in this size vehicle to check them out as well and shoot me down the right path, as I am seriously ready to start the purchase phase of this project.
https://bassforms.com/products/2002-2015-dodge-ram-quad-cab-4-door
This is the box I have been looking at. I have found it for $400, and offered less. I believe this model is sealed, which I am open to going sealed or ported, however with the limited space I believed the sealed would be the better option and sound better with smaller spaces. This box claims to hold W6's and L7's. In the suburban, I had 2 powerbass 3xl 15's DVC. They were stupid loud. I have found the same subs in 12's, but we can read about that in the subs portion of the post.
KICKER | KS Series 6x9" 3-way Coax
These are the door speakers I have been looking at. However, while still brand new I believe the ones I have found a deal on are the previous model. Does this matter? The prices vary from $150 (new model) a pair to $67 a pair. Need 2 pair if they will both fit. I was intending to use the same KS series 3.5 for the dash speakers as well. While I love the idea of component speakers, I have zero knowledge of fabrication and making that work. This is the nicest vehicle I have ever owned, so I want a clean professional finished product when completed. I do not think I have fabrication type money though, so I have ruled components out without even pricing installation on them.
I intend to use my same head unit mostly to ensure I do not lose factory things inside the unit, but also to save money.
https://www.amazon.com/KICKER-11S12...01948612&sr=8-1&keywords=kicker+solo+baric+l7
These are the subs I have almost decided on. Not sure if I will go 4 ohm or 2, depends on how they can be wired. With the space provided I intend to go 1 ohm or .5 ohm at the amp to help give the subs all they want or need. I can go either 10's or 12's, and would appreciate knowing which would be best for the build. The only .5 ohm stable amp I have seen (without actively looking for one) is a power acoustic brand. Isn't the best brand in the world I know, but I did have the bamf 5500 in my suburban, and I know they can push some power. Remember I am not married to anything I have posted, and have only selected these products due to having no knowledge in this hobby. just for reference, here are the powerbass 3xl's.
https://www.amazon.com/PowerBass-3X...949889&sr=8-1&keywords=POWERBASS+3XL-1201D+12
As for amplifiers I have looked at several. I just recently found this one, which the reviews on were great. The price is also great. I prefer the amp to have lots of headroom to help both the amp and the subs. So the amps I have been looking at are rated far above what the subs call for. Here are a few, all insight is appreciated.
Q1-2200.2 2350W Mono Amp
Alpine
XMA-2000D Mono Block Mini Amplifier
I am all ears on amplification. I have purchased a wiring kit already. I had true 1/0 in my suburban, however I purchased a more than true 4 (they claim it is larger than true 4 gauge) hoping to not drain more from the charging system. I purchased the extended unlimited warranty on the truck, so I can not do "the big 3" or change any components in the charging system. I believe I could add a second battery, but I need to check on that. Here is the wiring kit I purchased, as well as a battery idea if I can.
3000W Heavy-Duty 4 Gauge Amp Kit Complete Amplifier Cable Wiring 100 Amp Fuse | eBay
Stinger Car Or Marine Audio SQB2000 Deep Cycle 2000 Watt 525Cca Battery New | eBay
I also want to sound dampen the doors at very minimum. Again, not sure I have whole truck dampening type of money. But figure as long as the panels are off for the speakers, I may as well do it there. Also, I will get a DSP if I need one, however, if I do not then I would rather save that money and put it elsewhere in the system. I am sure I have missed something, but I am already hoping someone takes the time to read all this and help me out. Once more, I am not married to anything I have listed. This is simply the path I was down. The only thing i have bought is the wiring kit, which I do not mind eating the money on. Was only 25 bucks. I also want an amp for the door/dash speakers. The Alpine PDX-F6 was one of them I was looking at. But with all your knowledge, I am sure you can all help me with better suggestions on everything. Unfortunately I recently sold my Punch 400.4. All I have left is a Kicker ZX250.1. I do not intend to use it though. Please help me! Ha.
https://bassforms.com/products/2002-2015-dodge-ram-quad-cab-4-door
This is the box I have been looking at. I have found it for $400, and offered less. I believe this model is sealed, which I am open to going sealed or ported, however with the limited space I believed the sealed would be the better option and sound better with smaller spaces. This box claims to hold W6's and L7's. In the suburban, I had 2 powerbass 3xl 15's DVC. They were stupid loud. I have found the same subs in 12's, but we can read about that in the subs portion of the post.
KICKER | KS Series 6x9" 3-way Coax
These are the door speakers I have been looking at. However, while still brand new I believe the ones I have found a deal on are the previous model. Does this matter? The prices vary from $150 (new model) a pair to $67 a pair. Need 2 pair if they will both fit. I was intending to use the same KS series 3.5 for the dash speakers as well. While I love the idea of component speakers, I have zero knowledge of fabrication and making that work. This is the nicest vehicle I have ever owned, so I want a clean professional finished product when completed. I do not think I have fabrication type money though, so I have ruled components out without even pricing installation on them.
I intend to use my same head unit mostly to ensure I do not lose factory things inside the unit, but also to save money.
https://www.amazon.com/KICKER-11S12...01948612&sr=8-1&keywords=kicker+solo+baric+l7
These are the subs I have almost decided on. Not sure if I will go 4 ohm or 2, depends on how they can be wired. With the space provided I intend to go 1 ohm or .5 ohm at the amp to help give the subs all they want or need. I can go either 10's or 12's, and would appreciate knowing which would be best for the build. The only .5 ohm stable amp I have seen (without actively looking for one) is a power acoustic brand. Isn't the best brand in the world I know, but I did have the bamf 5500 in my suburban, and I know they can push some power. Remember I am not married to anything I have posted, and have only selected these products due to having no knowledge in this hobby. just for reference, here are the powerbass 3xl's.
https://www.amazon.com/PowerBass-3X...949889&sr=8-1&keywords=POWERBASS+3XL-1201D+12
As for amplifiers I have looked at several. I just recently found this one, which the reviews on were great. The price is also great. I prefer the amp to have lots of headroom to help both the amp and the subs. So the amps I have been looking at are rated far above what the subs call for. Here are a few, all insight is appreciated.
Q1-2200.2 2350W Mono Amp
Alpine
XMA-2000D Mono Block Mini Amplifier
I am all ears on amplification. I have purchased a wiring kit already. I had true 1/0 in my suburban, however I purchased a more than true 4 (they claim it is larger than true 4 gauge) hoping to not drain more from the charging system. I purchased the extended unlimited warranty on the truck, so I can not do "the big 3" or change any components in the charging system. I believe I could add a second battery, but I need to check on that. Here is the wiring kit I purchased, as well as a battery idea if I can.
3000W Heavy-Duty 4 Gauge Amp Kit Complete Amplifier Cable Wiring 100 Amp Fuse | eBay
Stinger Car Or Marine Audio SQB2000 Deep Cycle 2000 Watt 525Cca Battery New | eBay
I also want to sound dampen the doors at very minimum. Again, not sure I have whole truck dampening type of money. But figure as long as the panels are off for the speakers, I may as well do it there. Also, I will get a DSP if I need one, however, if I do not then I would rather save that money and put it elsewhere in the system. I am sure I have missed something, but I am already hoping someone takes the time to read all this and help me out. Once more, I am not married to anything I have listed. This is simply the path I was down. The only thing i have bought is the wiring kit, which I do not mind eating the money on. Was only 25 bucks. I also want an amp for the door/dash speakers. The Alpine PDX-F6 was one of them I was looking at. But with all your knowledge, I am sure you can all help me with better suggestions on everything. Unfortunately I recently sold my Punch 400.4. All I have left is a Kicker ZX250.1. I do not intend to use it though. Please help me! Ha.