No Boom Boom :(

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Jwithing

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Don't think it's a ground issue either, the amp light flickers with a poor ground connection
 
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Hooked up a new 12 ga wire from the amp to sub just in case and no change. Ran out and bought a multimeter(can't believe I don't have one already ha). Think out the problem... Subwoofer cone will barely move down when pushing on it. Used thrultimeter on the sub and the ohms quickly fluctuate from 1.2 to 1.8 and reading the ohms from the amp out @ just under 1. Seems like I blew it ladies and gents.:(
 
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Since I've gotta buy a new sub now... Anyone know of any subs that'll perform better than the JL that'll fit in the stealthbox?
 

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That ohm reading is fine for a 2 ohm sub and will change when the cone is moved. Your testing resistance with a DC voltage, it will read low. Being that is a small sealed enclosure, the sub will have somewhat stiff "suspension". That enclosure is tuned for that particular speaker, you would probably want to just replace it with the same.
Have you tested the output of the amp on a different speaker? Or try another source to test the sub?
 
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Jwithing

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Unfortunately, don't have another source or sub for testing
 

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what was your old amp? did the old amp use that bass knob also? If the old amp wasnt a JL amp the bass knob may be the problem. they are not universal. yes most use a standard "phone cord" but the electronics is different.
 
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what was your old amp? did the old amp use that bass knob also? If the old amp wasnt a JL amp the bass knob may be the problem. they are not universal. yes most use a standard "phone cord" but the electronics is different.

Old amp was a JL xd300... Tried the 9v test and the sub didn't move. Pretty sure I blew it going from 300 to 600. Sub is rated for 500 max, thought I'd be safe keeping it turned down considering to amp is 100% efficient as well. I emailed JL to see if I'd be ok stuffing a w6v3 in the box vs. the w3v3 that was in there. May just go with a two sub underseat box and throw some type R's in it.

Side note.. the fuse for my 'cigar lighter' blew again this morning. I'm using an aftermarket cig lighter in it. Wondering if I have some grounding issues in general...
 

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Tried the 9v test and the sub didn't move. Pretty sure I blew it going from 300 to 600. Sub is rated for 500 max, thought I'd be safe keeping it turned down considering to amp is 100% efficient as well.

The speaker cone may not move but listen carefully for a scratching or popping sound when you attach/detach the battery to the speaker terminals.
Just because you ran a 500 watt speaker with a 600 watt amp doesn't mean the speaker blew. I've seen 500 watt speakers blown while on 200 watt amps.
Use your volt meter(try both AC & DC) to see if you have any output from the amp. Try it with both the sub connected and not. Being that it sounds like a Class D amp, the output will need to see resistance.
 
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The speaker cone may not move but listen carefully for a scratching or popping sound when you attach/detach the battery to the speaker terminals.
Just because you ran a 500 watt speaker with a 600 watt amp doesn't mean the speaker blew. I've seen 500 watt speakers blown while on 200 watt amps.
Use your volt meter(try both AC & DC) to see if you have any output from the amp. Try it with both the sub connected and not. Being that it sounds like a Class D amp, the output will need to see resistance.

Amp is outputting power. I was finally able to pull the sub from the box. Was able to move the cone much more and it's definitely scratching/popping and smells burnt. If JL says I'll be good throwing a w6v3 in the box, then I'll just go that route and see if anyone wants the sub for cheap to rebuild. If not, I'll maybe buy another, rebuild it myself and go with two w3v3's in the near future.
 
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About two minutes away from just ordering a w6v3... Checked the specs and the box is deep enough and the w6v3 actually requires less sqft than the w3v3. If it doesn't work out, I'll just order another one and get a foxbox lol. Anything else I need to consider upgrading? I believe the sub power cable is thick enough. Have an lc2i and a jx600 as the amp.
 
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W6 will be here Wednesday :)
 
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Just picked up a used w6v2 off CL for $300... Boom Boom is back. Amazon won't let me cancel my new w6v3... Looks like I'm going to need to find a box for two and a new amp :)
 

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I'm sure Amazon would let you return it once it arrives. Unless you really want 2 12s. :)
 
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I'm sure Amazon would let you return it once it arrives. Unless you really want 2 12s. :)

They may charge for shipping return fees on it. I would love 2 subs (they're 10's), but really have other things I need to spend my money on atm lol
 

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About two minutes away from just ordering a w6v3... Checked the specs and the box is deep enough and the w6v3 actually requires less sqft than the w3v3. If it doesn't work out, I'll just order another one and get a foxbox lol. Anything else I need to consider upgrading? I believe the sub power cable is thick enough. Have an lc2i and a jx600 as the amp.

Yeah, ditch the LC2I and buy the PAC AP4-CH41 it will give you preouts for subs mids and highs just as the aftermarket head units do. The LC2I if hooked to the sub wires is limited in frequency at 38-85hz lower than 38hz the frequency drops off super fast.

I ran a volts test to see where the crossovers were set from factory.

Well.. this sucks. Ran the test with subsonic at 10 low pass at 90.

40hz 44.3 volts


if you wanted to set the SSF to 26 you would need the voltage to be 31.32 volts.. as you can see the factory crossover for the sub had me limited to 31hz..


39 43.1

38 42.2

37 41.0

36 40.3

35 38.9

34 38

33 36.3

32 34.3

31 32.3

30 30.1

29 27.8

28 25.9

27 22.7

26 20.1

25 15.3

24 15.1

23 13.5

22 11.6

21 10.5

20 9.7

19 8.4

meaning you dont even need to set your subsonic filter or low pass filter the factory amp has already done that for you and it sucks..

If you "blew" the sub its because you sent a dirt clipped signal to the sub and it burnt the coil.. LC2I is good at this! It will happen over and over until you clean up the signal and stop clipping your amp. set gains correctly.
 
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Yeah, ditch the LC2I and buy the PAC AP4-CH41 it will give you preouts for subs mids and highs just as the aftermarket head units do. The LC2I if hooked to the sub wires is limited in frequency at 38-85hz lower than 38hz the frequency drops off super fast.

I ran a volts test to see where the crossovers were set from factory.

Well.. this sucks. Ran the test with subsonic at 10 low pass at 90.

40hz 44.3 volts


if you wanted to set the SSF to 26 you would need the voltage to be 31.32 volts.. as you can see the factory crossover for the sub had me limited to 31hz..


39 43.1

38 42.2

37 41.0

36 40.3

35 38.9

34 38

33 36.3

32 34.3

31 32.3

30 30.1

29 27.8

28 25.9

27 22.7

26 20.1

25 15.3

24 15.1

23 13.5

22 11.6

21 10.5

20 9.7

19 8.4

meaning you dont even need to set your subsonic filter or low pass filter the factory amp has already done that for you and it sucks..

If you "blew" the sub its because you sent a dirt clipped signal to the sub and it burnt the coil.. LC2I is good at this! It will happen over and over until you clean up the signal and stop clipping your amp. set gains correctly.

Funny you mention this... Was just reading up on it a bit and thinking about it. Not sure how the hell to hook it up, but may start looking for one. I think you're definitely right on the clipping. I fiddled with the lc2i before I read the manual and was clipping the hell out of it. Made sure to set it appropriately for the w6, but would definitely love lower than 31hz.
 

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its literally plug and play. I have pictures on one of these forums of the install.. I even daisy chained the BCI ch41 to it so I have the PAC BCI-CH41 chained to the AP4-CH41 everything works as designed.
 
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its literally plug and play. I have pictures on one of these forums of the install.. I even daisy chained the BCI ch41 to it so I have the PAC BCI-CH41 chained to the AP4-CH41 everything works as designed.

Nice, I would like to add turn signal cameras eventually... Little extra assurance in a big lifted truck can't hurt.
 
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Finally got a response from JL, they stated the stealthbox for the w3v3 would likely not be suitable for a w6v3 due to excursion and cooling requirements. The w6 I got off CL was a V2, so a little less extrusion, but i'd have to say that it doesn't hit as hard as the w3v3 did. Looks like I'm in the market to sell the stealthbox and blown sub since another w6v3 is being delivered today. Just gotta find a good deal on an xd1000 now, pickup the pac, and get a ported foxbox.
 
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Any experienced audio guys know if I should hookup a capacitor for this setup? I have led fogs and hid hlow/hi beams, so I'm thinking yes. Also, is the jx1000 really worth the extra money, or are there good, cheaper alternative s?
 
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