Ok.Need Help Sub/Amp install

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mxblaster83

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gonna install my first system. what do i need???

i have just the basic radio/no alpine

i know i need the pac thing for rca's, what's the product number?
is it chr3 or chr2???

i bought a atrent single 10" box for my truck
and i have the kicker ks35's for my dash
im gonna keep my stock door speakers for now
i have a old sony explod 1000w mono amp thats been laying around the
garage for a few yrs, and i bought a 4gauge wiring kit

the box has a 6.5" mounting depth?
so im thinking of either the
Kicker CompVT or
Kicker CompV. i dont know whats better only a $20 differnce


any help would be nice.
 

Graygoose

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The CVT is last years model, the new CompRT is the new one, get it when available. ( very soon!) It handles more power, shallower.. :)

CES 2013 John Myers KICKER CompR and CompRT - YouTube

40CWRT12_FR.jpg
 
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ram-head

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I can't offer you help on what to buy. But I can offer encouragement. I recently replaced my headunit, added a camera and bluetooth kit, replaced the door speakers, ran new speaker wire, hooked them to an amp, and put two 10" subs and an amp in. It was the first time I had installed stuff on my own, but the shops around here wanted over $1,000 just to install everything. I did it all in phases, not everything at once. It was all fairly simple, just took a little time to run the speaker wire. Good luck with the install.
 

Graygoose

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CVX will be perfect!
 
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mxblaster83

mxblaster83

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yeah im excited

im looking on ebay right now for the pac harness
is it the chr3 or chr2?

and you think the old 1000w explod amp will be ok for now untill i can afford to upgrade?

whats better 4ohm or 8 ohm sub?
 
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Graygoose

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depends on what all you have accessory wise on which PAC, and yes, amp will work, but get it upgraded :D
 
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mxblaster83

mxblaster83

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audio1der

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Get the 4ohm sub. An 8-ohm sub won't draw near as much power from your amp.
If you give us the model# of the amp we could help a little more. Not too familiar with Kicker subs, but if they have a dual 2ohm voicecoil option instead of a single 4, do that. That way in the future you can wire it down to 1ohm to draw a LOT of power from an amp which is 1ohm mono stable, but can wire it for 4ohms right now, It's all in how you wire the 4 leads off the voice coils. You can Google voicecoil wiring diagrams more easily than we could type it here for ya.
Your amp wiring kit should come with an inline fuse; put that within 18" of the + battery connection.
The fuse value should be the same as what the combined value of all fuse(s) on the side of the amp.
Keep your amp -(ground) as short as possible, but try it with the truck running before you cut it to length. You may have to try a couple of different spots if you have alternator whine.(if you don't know what that is, you will once you hear it lol).
Sand or grind off the paint under where your ground attaches to the chassis/body. The beefier/thicker what you ground to, the better.
Route the power to the amp down one side of the cab, and the RCA & any other signal/speaker wires down the other. If they need to cross, do it at a 90* angle.
When you set your amp gain, turn it ALL THE WAY DOWN. Using music you'd usually listen to, crank the rest of the stereo to just below where it starts to distort, then turn the amp's gain up until the sub is almost distorting. You might want to take it easy on the sub for a few days/week to let it break in before you really **** on it (it lets the suspension loosen up a little).
Keep all the wires as short as possible and tie-wrap or tape them together neatly; it DOES make a difference.
Oh- DO NOT pull out the RCA plugs off the amp while playing music; that often shorts out the amps input section.

Thats all I can think of off the top of my head.
 
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mxblaster83

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audio1der

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That sub needs more than 25% more internal air capacity then the box you're looking at has. I'd keep shopping if it were me. You can't "skimp" by over 25%; you need something deigned to work in 1 cubic foot. *You know something I just thought of? You still have to remove the volume of air the sub will displace from that 0.95ft^3. You REALLY can't expect the Kicker to wor kproperly after factoring that in.
If you're stuck on shopping at Crutchfield this is the closest I could find:
http://www.crutchfield.ca/Kenwood_KFC_W2513PS_Subwoofer_p/113w2513ps.htm

I know you're planning on changing the box, but it would be INIFINITELY easier to find a 10"sub which perform well in .85^ft sealed, than 0.95ft^3 ported. Something to consider. You could always block the port of that new box and enjoy the benefits of the added airspace...
 
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mxblaster83

mxblaster83

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That sub needs more than 25% more internal air capacity then the box you're looking at has. I'd keep shopping if it were me. You can't "skimp" by over 25%; you need something deigned to work in 1 cubic foot. *You know something I just thought of? You still have to remove the volume of air the sub will displace from that 0.95ft^3. You REALLY can't expect the Kicker to wor kproperly after factoring that in.
If you're stuck on shopping at Crutchfield this is the closest I could find:
Kenwood KFC-W2513PS Subwoofer

I know you're planning on changing the box, but it would be INIFINITELY easier to find a 10"sub which perform well in .85^ft sealed, than 0.95ft^3 ported. Something to consider. You could always block the port of that new box and enjoy the benefits of the added airspace...





****. i already ordered everything. is it gonna sound that bad?
i thought fox box's were good? i wanted to get a duel but im on a budget
this is my first system ever.

is everything eles look ok? i ordered this to w/ a 80a wafer fuse
cause my amp has 3x25a fuses

EFX Amplifier Wiring Kit 4-gauge w/Patch Cord
 

Graygoose

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add some polyfill, that will help, the CVT would have worked better than the Comp, but nonetheless, it will work, just not play as low as you might like.
(not the subs fault, just small box)
 
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mxblaster83

mxblaster83

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add some polyfill, that will help, the CVT would have worked better than the Comp, but nonetheless, it will work, just not play as low as you might like.
(not the subs fault, just small box)

yeah thats what crutchfield has been saying
they said i can try the sub and if i dont like it
i can return it and get the alpine type r that would work better
****** deal cause i kinda like kicker.
 

Graygoose

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yeah thats what crutchfield has been saying
they said i can try the sub and if i dont like it
i can return it and get the alpine type r that would work better
****** deal cause i kinda like kicker.

well we appreciate that!
Type r may not be much better, both like about the same sized boxes. The Kicker Classic would have been a PERFECT fit, as they like .88 sealed.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/400376687065?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

but, it's deep too.
 
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mxblaster83

mxblaster83

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ok, i have never used poyfill before, after some time on google
i have read that 1lb of polyfill per cubic inch. does that sound right?
and is it gonna be a problem in a ported box???

so my box has a air volume of .95cubic feet so would i add a 1lb of polyfill?

cause the sub has 1.25 - 1.75 cu. ft.

this **** is confusing!
 

atticusfaul

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polyfill isnt for ported boxes. Good in a sealed box.

From what i understand you can't use it in he ported boxes because of how the air moves. In a sealed box pack it as tight as you can and buy it from a craft store for way cheeper.


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Graygoose

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Yes, you can use polyfill in ported boxes.
 

audio1der

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^LOL, Agreed. You just have to get it to stay in place by glue, adhesive or staples.
 
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