Sound Deadening

Hey all, I am looking to start sound deadening some doors and the rear wall.
Rear wall... not a problem, straight forward.
Doors... I plan to mat the panel itself but I would like to mat the metal on the door as well, currently there is that plastic panel that is secured by several 10mm bolts that I dont seem to be able to figure out how to remove. Has anyone done this? Alternative could be to mat the plastic panel itself.
What route did you guys go when it came to sound deadening the doors? Mainly looking for potential rattles or lose of sound quality.
I know to mat most flat surfaces and obvious rattle points but hoping to get some additional useful info.

There is a DIY on here for how to do it. That panel is attached to the window.

adrianp89 said:

There is a DIY on here for how to do it. That panel is attached to the window.

Click to expand...

Do you know what it is called? I did a search prior to making the thread, maybe I wasnt putting in the correct terms.

NOcasio7 said:

Do you know what it is called? I did a search prior to making the thread, maybe I wasnt putting in the correct terms.

Click to expand...

I think most people call that the inner door "card."

Here is what I did on mine...

DavidRam said:

I think most people understand that as the inner door "card."

Here is what I did one mine...

Click to expand...

What size speaker is that in the door?

I think DavidRam covered everything to deaden, nice work!!!. After I deadened my doors the one issue I had with rattling was the black glass guard at the top of the doors when you remove the panel. added a strip of roadkill under it...no rattles now

shadoweng said:

What size speaker is that in the door?

Click to expand...

Dynaudio 6.5"

This one: MW 162 - Dynaudio 6.5" Mid/Woofer

DavidRam did about as good of a job that can be done. When I did mine, (david will agree) I did as much of the black plastic inner door card as possible, then the INSIDE on the outer door card (door panel itself) I did not have the time to remove black plastic inner door card, so I opened up the rubber access panel on the black plastic card, and placed (i have long arms which helped) TWO 8x11" panels of butyl rubber deadener up inside the door attaching them to the inside metal skin of the door itself. Not a lot of room to work, but it can be done. Then I reached and roll-pressed the deadener as best as possible to the metal skin. This step along helped ALOT with panel vibration. Get as much as you can up there on the skin, one or two big slabs will help a lot....best of luck and take your time. Now if you want to go even further, you can start adding CCF, and MLV between door panel and inside door card. That's when your truck starts to become as quiet as a vault

I went all out on mine as well using Second Skin products. I did the inside of the door card but I apparently don't have any pics of that but since I cut my door panel apart I had a lot less structural to stop it from moving so It got a full coating of CLD tiles.

I left the plastic inner door panel in place because I didn't feel like pulling the window and riser out with it but I did run a bead of Butyl rope around the perimeter before tightening it back down.





After that every flat surface, and some not so flat on the inner door panel got the CDL tile treatment. You only need to deaden the panels that are unsupported which for the door panel is just every vertical panel.



I did the same thing as auto and reached through that plastic panel and through the speaker enclosuer (that I cut off) to get a bunch of CDL tile on the inside of the outter door skin. On top of that I also put a self-adhesive layer of a CCF/MLV combo.



I went as far as to use expanding foam in all the door pillars and places you can't get to to put deadener.



Here's a comparison between doors my rear door which had been treated and the front door which hadn't been worked on yet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wQqFaRFSEc

Thanks for all the awesome info!
I did a search last night on google for sound deadening on our trucks and found this link and thought I should post it here, I will be following this to go the extra step:
http://www.ramforum.com/f75/how_removing_inner_door_panel_window-79539/

Be VERY careful if you use foam. I do not recommend it personally. It can easily expand into the sheet metal and cause ripples or cracks. (I've seen someone do this first hand). Also it makes PDR next to impossible.

adrianp89 said:

Be VERY careful if you use foam. I do not recommend it personally. It can easily expand into the sheet metal and cause ripples or cracks. (I've seen someone do this first hand). Also it makes PDR next to impossible.

Click to expand...

I agree with this 100%. I see guys "going the extra step" all the time with foam. Most applications are for hard to reach channels, canals, door pillars, etc.. however, with resonances...your biggest concern is flat surfaces made of metal or plastic where the energy/ sound waves spread across the area and begin to wave, flap, buzz creating noises/buzzes. The small channels are not the places where resonances USUALLY occur. Obviously with higher power levels, and certain frequencies, resonances can happen almost anywhere.
Flat surfaces like doors, floors, back walls, roofs, etc...they get my attention first. Eventually you should consider the diminishing returns involved.
I did the whole dampener, CCF, MLV on my door panels and I did it correctly with complete decoupling and all. Did it work? Yes, I could hear my wife breathing while going down the highway 75mph+...but my door panels never fit quite like factory, my inside door handles had a mushy feeling to them and that drove me absolutely bonkers after a while...I eventually removed the CCF and MLV and it was worth it to me.

The extra step for me is to place matting on the sheetmetal of the door that cant be accessed without removing the door card. I am using an 80 mil butyl matting. The only place that I planned to use foam was at the top of the door skin on all the doors, this is where (driver side front for example) you would rest your left arm while driving. I have noticed that this area does rattle so my intention for that was to get the weatherstripping foam to go between the doorskin and the door itself.

The only places you should use foam is in the door pillars and voids you can't otherwise access. I find a big reduction in wind noise when it's used in the upper door trim, the upper rear quarter panels, and the roof cross braces; basically the places where complete dampening can't be done without affecting the panel fitment. For me, my truck is 170+mph capable, wind noise is a significant issue as is door jam buffeting. My system is also built around SQ so I want it clean at all speeds.


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