Stereo Upgrade?

Kapt · Aug 17, 2017

I wasn't going to upgrade the 8.4 Alpine system in my 2016 Laramie Ecodiesel anymore than I already have, but I'm thinking I just might do it after all. Right now I have changed all three dash speakers to Infinity 3 1/2's, and added two Kenwood 12's under the back seat powered by a Kicker 600.1 amp.

I'm thinking of removing the LC2i and replacing it with this. Then adding a Kicker four channel amp. Since I already have Infinities in the dash, I was thinking of adding Infinity 6x9's to all four doors. Then tapping the left and right dash speakers to the 6x9's in the front doors, leaving the center powered by Alpine and just there. The rear doors would be run alone on the rear of the four channel. Subs would continue to run as they are now.

Thoughts?

adurm · Aug 18, 2017

I say do it. I'm not sure how that pac provides flat eq unless it's already flat from the head unit. You could just run the lc2i main out to the 4 channel amp. You would lose fade but you could always turn the gain down a smidge for the rears of needed. Some amps can do 4 channel out with only 2 in or you could use a y adapter for the rca.

I wouldn't tap the door and dash together. Too big size and power difference. Not to mention the ohms.

adrianp89 · Aug 18, 2017

Signal is flat from HU on Alpine. PAC does a great job with the signal.

Witch · Aug 18, 2017

This looks pretty sick

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idVZzOCeKbA

BadHabit2Break · Aug 18, 2017

Witch said:
This looks pretty sick

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idVZzOCeKbA

That is pretty slick!

S0CAL · Aug 18, 2017

Witch said:
This looks pretty sick

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idVZzOCeKbA

Interesting approach, and I am not hating, but while they had the doors apart they could have ran 16ga speaker wire. All that power and nowhere to send it. That's like having a Mercury outboard in a bathtub. :crazy:

http://www.ramforum.com/f75/diy_run_new_speakerwire_thru_doors_-_no_cuts-107854/

Eestee70 · Aug 18, 2017

I completely agree with you SOCAL....but remember we're looking at a shop doing a customers truck. It may not have been in the customers budget to do more stuff. With your full dynamat build I'm sure you probably passed out from the band-aid they used for deadening the door. LOL.

S0CAL · Aug 18, 2017

Eestee70 said:
I completely agree with you SOCAL....but remember we're looking at a shop doing a customers truck. It may not have been in the customers budget to do more stuff. With your full dynamat build I'm sure you probably passed out from the band-aid they used for deadening the door. LOL.

adrianp89 · Aug 18, 2017

Can't see the video - but how much power is going to the doors? I wouldn't even bother upgrading until we are talking 200-250RMS per door.

Witch · Aug 18, 2017

75ish to each door.

I am digging the plug and play approach and the app tuning rocks IMO

I agree with Eestee though, being it was a customer and not a personal project they simply installed what the customer wanted,

it is an expensive system so it could have been a budget constraints

Kapt · Aug 19, 2017

Witch said:
This looks pretty sick

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idVZzOCeKbA

I was into this and gonna do it. Started pricing things and changed my mind. An $800 amp is simply not in my budjet

Eestee70 · Aug 19, 2017

There are a lot of thing that aren't in our budgets......but with financing it opens up the possibility of getting what you want and not spending a large chunk of money at one time. thats how I purchase my stereo equipment. Some places even offer 90 days same as cash.

Kapt · Aug 19, 2017

Eestee70 said:
There are a lot of thing that aren't in our budgets......but with financing it opens up the possibility of getting what you want and not spending a large chunk of money at one time. thats how I purchase my stereo equipment. Some places even offer 90 days same as cash.

Well, my original plan is going to cost right around $700 for what I want to do. This new plan would cost a little over $1,200. I could do it, and I know it would be way nicer when finished, but I do have to sleep at night with my wife, and I go to sleep earlier than she does lol

Seriously though, I'm looking and trying to find a less expensive compatible amp and we'll see what happens. If I can shave a couple hundred off the price I can sell her on it

Eased · Aug 19, 2017

This is awesome. Exactly what im looking for. It's a shame that this is the route you have to take to integrate into the factory systems these days.

S0CAL · Aug 19, 2017

Even if you don't buy there, crutchfield.com does a nice job of showing you what's compatible with factory setup. I went there, but ended up yanking everything out as I had the old RA2 unit. I sold it on Craigslist for 100 buck though, so it wasn't all bad. :naughty:

Witch · Aug 19, 2017

The other side would be the PAC audio route
It is a good one but still need the 250 dollar adapter and harness for your RCA out with a 5 channel amp
Unless you are staying with the factory amp

Kapt · Aug 19, 2017

Witch said:
The other side would be the PAC audio route
It is a good one but still need the 250 dollar adapter and harness for your RCA out with a 5 channel amp
Unless you are staying with the factory amp

That's actually the rout I'm going. It'll end up being three amps in the long run (already have one), but I got everything including tape and wire loom for less than the cost of the amp in the video.

Eestee70 · Aug 19, 2017

Kapt, can you explain why you would do three amps.

Kapt · Aug 19, 2017

Eestee70 said:
Kapt, can you explain why you would do three amps.

Front, rear, sub. Front is four channel for 6x9's in the door, and the 3.5"s in the dash. Rear and sub are self explanatory

Eestee70 · Aug 19, 2017

normally you wouldn't use that many amps unless you're running an active system...I'm asking so many questions because if we can point you in the right direction it will save time & money

Stereo Upgrade?

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