Decided to install a dash cam after my trucks been hit a few times at the train station where I leave it every day. I'm having problems hard wiring it. The kit instructs you to locate a constant power fuse and an accessory fuse and wrap the corresponding wires around the leg of each fuse and reinstall the fuse. I chose the fuse marked cigar lighter as the accessory and the fuse marked trailer brake/flash as the constant. Both of which are 20A and happen to be next to each other. The camera does not turn on. Anybody have any ideas of which fuses would be best to tap into? I originally thought the power ports on the dash would be perfect. The USB port on the right of the dash stays live when the trucks off. The cigarette lighter style accessory port on the left dies when the trucks off. But I can't identify them by the descriptions in the fuse panel.
Tapping into the fuse panel
- Thread starter Jb7054
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mdifilippo
Senior Member
The instructions seriously say to wrap the wires around the fuse? WOW, those guys want to get sued don't they. Use a fuse tap or better known as "add a circuit" https://www.google.com/search?q=fus...e..69i57j0l5.701j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
From the sounds of it the issue is the "trailer brake/flash" that I don't believe would be a constant source. Look up a fuse box diagram for your truck and you'll find what's constant, some trucks have a constant and an accessory 12 volt (or cigarette plug) in the cab. Or you may have to pull a constant 12V from the engine compartment fusebox. Also, it's not real clear but you do realize the fuse is ONLY the positive side of the circuit, you'd still need to ground your connection.
From the sounds of it the issue is the "trailer brake/flash" that I don't believe would be a constant source. Look up a fuse box diagram for your truck and you'll find what's constant, some trucks have a constant and an accessory 12 volt (or cigarette plug) in the cab. Or you may have to pull a constant 12V from the engine compartment fusebox. Also, it's not real clear but you do realize the fuse is ONLY the positive side of the circuit, you'd still need to ground your connection.
I grounded it to the ground bolt Under the hood. I thought the engine compartment fuse box was the only one. The camera is a thinkware f750 which is a pretty popular system. I don't know much about wiring but that's what the instructions say. I'll try a different fuse and see what happens. I thought a break light would have constant power but not sure about the trailer brake connector.
Attachments
The add a circuits looks like a cleaner way to do it. I'll pick up a couple. Thanks. Just gotta figure out where to tie into. Would it be ok to attatch the constant directly to the battery? It's a thin wire with its own fuse attached to it. The camera has a battery monitor in it so it doesn't over drain the battery.
12sportmc
Senior Member
If it's a fused lead then put a ring terminal on the end and attach it to the accessories post of the under hood fuse block.
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That did the trick. I tied one wire to the post with the terminal and the other to the auxiliary port fuse. Thanks for the help.
monteholic
Senior Member
I used this for tapping into the fuse panel
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZFNJI6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZFNJI6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
mjc543
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Hi there. When I finally decided to hardwire my dash cam instead of letting the adapter hang down from the windshield to the console, I ran the wires down the windshield pillar and behind the dash, down to the floorboard, then up underneath the cup holder/phone holder tray. From there I used tap-in connectors to tap into the wiring harness for the 12V accessory port that sits in the console (2016 Lone Star). Camera came on no problems first time I turned the key.
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