Uconnect 8.4 aftermarket amps & subs/speaker install

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Tinmanzroad36

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Hey guys & gals,
New here to the forum, so forgive me in advance if wrong area, format etc... I'm installing a set of amps, component door speakers and subs to my 2014 ram 2500 with uconnect and keeping factory head unit. I purchased amp kits & a LC2i output converter to tie into the factory wiring. However, this type of head unit, may be beyond my understanding of typical output, and I am having trouble with the system not working. Has anyone done this type of install and knows what type of inverter or plug-n-play module that may take all the splicing into wires out of the process for me? Thanks in advance!
 

adrianp89

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You need a LOC that will present a load to the radio. The PAC LOC-PROs accomplish this.

Not sure if your LC2i does it. How do you have everything wired in?
 

Etroze86

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We need a little info from ya. First what 8.4 do you have? is it the alpine system? Next why go with the LC2i as it will really only be able to tie one amp into the system?
 

Graygoose

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Some amps don't need an LOC. What brand are you using?
 

baum

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Can the Kicker amps simulate the resistance load for the Chrysler's that need it?

most if not all amps that offer the high level input dont have the load resistance built into it.
 

adrianp89

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most if not all amps that offer the high level input dont have the load resistance built into it.

That's what I thought... I don't think I have ever even used the hi-level on amp before. .
 

wsutard1

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I would recomend returning the LC2i and going with the LCQ-1. The LCQ will allow you multi channel output so you can run mutiple amps.

Additionally, the equalization of the LCQ is very much needed in these trucks. The factory radios are set to pump up the high end to levels that really suck when you upgrade your system. Which is also why I would advise the LCQ even if your amps take line level input.

If you don't have the Alpine system then this might work for you.
Signal:
1. Identify the speaker outputs at the head unit harness and cut them. If you are using the LC2 then only cut the front. If you are using the LCQ then cut the front and rear.
2. Leave as much wire as possible on the harness side in case you need to reconnect them later.
3. Connect the harness side of the cuts to new wire and run that to wherever your Audio Control is located. Some prefer soldiering, some ue butt connectors, I personally like Posi-Lock connectors.
4. These will be your line level inputs the Audio Control will use.

Power for Audio Controls:
1. Two options, tap into an existing power source like the AUX power in the center console. or, use the power you are running to your amps. Both ways work.
2. Make sure you properly ground the unit. Easiest place it to use the ground your amps are using.

Obviously run the RCAs to the amps.
This should be it.
 

Graygoose

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That's what I thought... I don't think I have ever even used the hi-level on amp before. .

we do a lot, less chance of added noise.
 
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Tinmanzroad36

Tinmanzroad36

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You need a LOC that will present a load to the radio. The PAC LOC-PROs accomplish this.

Not sure if your LC2i does it. How do you have everything wired in?

I wired in the LC2i behind the head unit, splicing into the outgoing rear +/- wires. When I turn everything on, the subs barely come on, and the door speakers come on but drop out as soon as I start turning up the sound.
 
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Tinmanzroad36

Tinmanzroad36

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We need a little info from ya. First what 8.4 do you have? is it the alpine system? Next why go with the LC2i as it will really only be able to tie one amp into the system?

Not the alpine system. Base model with 4-6X9's only. I didn't realize the LC2i only had the single output. Although, it also has a second output for the sub amp. (So two amps can tie into it)
 
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Tinmanzroad36

Tinmanzroad36

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I would recomend returning the LC2i and going with the LCQ-1. The LCQ will allow you multi channel output so you can run mutiple amps.

Additionally, the equalization of the LCQ is very much needed in these trucks. The factory radios are set to pump up the high end to levels that really suck when you upgrade your system. Which is also why I would advise the LCQ even if your amps take line level input.

If you don't have the Alpine system then this might work for you.
Signal:
1. Identify the speaker outputs at the head unit harness and cut them. If you are using the LC2 then only cut the front. If you are using the LCQ then cut the front and rear.
2. Leave as much wire as possible on the harness side in case you need to reconnect them later.
3. Connect the harness side of the cuts to new wire and run that to wherever your Audio Control is located. Some prefer soldiering, some ue butt connectors, I personally like Posi-Lock connectors.
4. These will be your line level inputs the Audio Control will use.

Power for Audio Controls:
1. Two options, tap into an existing power source like the AUX power in the center console. or, use the power you are running to your amps. Both ways work.
2. Make sure you properly ground the unit. Easiest place it to use the ground your amps are using.

Obviously run the RCAs to the amps.
This should be it.

Thanks a ton for your input! This is how I installed it. Cut outgoing rear speaker outs on the leaving wires of the head unit, and tied them into the LC2i, and then ran two sets of RCA's from the LC2i (it has a main out and a sub out) back to the amps. After researching this head unit, it seems it is not a stereo, (it's only about 2" thick) but in fact is a module, and believe I may have been tying into output wires that lead to the actual stereo located somewhere behind the dash further. I assume based on the reaction of the amps and sound, that the input could be either a DC voltage signal, (maybe milliamps or millivolt) that sends a signal level to increase/decrease the volume, but not actually raise or lower an output until leaving the stereo? I may be way overthinking this but it's driving me nuts because it just doesn't make sense from the reaction of the amp when elevating sound.
 

wsutard1

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Thanks a ton for your input! This is how I installed it. Cut outgoing rear speaker outs on the leaving wires of the head unit, and tied them into the LC2i, and then ran two sets of RCA's from the LC2i (it has a main out and a sub out) back to the amps. After researching this head unit, it seems it is not a stereo, (it's only about 2" thick) but in fact is a module, and believe I may have been tying into output wires that lead to the actual stereo located somewhere behind the dash further. I assume based on the reaction of the amps and sound, that the input could be either a DC voltage signal, (maybe milliamps or millivolt) that sends a signal level to increase/decrease the volume, but not actually raise or lower an output until leaving the stereo? I may be way overthinking this but it's driving me nuts because it just doesn't make sense from the reaction of the amp when elevating sound.

The unit itself is thin, there is nothing else after it unless you have the alpine system.

You should definitely use the front signal as they are the "full" signal.

Here is the wiring diagram for the harness, double check that you are using the right outputs.

Test if you have the Audio Control wired correctly. disconnect the RCAs and then turn up the volume all the way up. The maximizer light should start blinking.

If it does not then you have one of two issues. 1. no signal from the headunit. Double check the wires you are pulling signal from. 2. your main on the LC2 is set too low. Turn the main up and watch for the blinking maximizer.

Once you get a blinking maximizer you have signal. Basically the maximizer is telling you that the signal us up so much that it is clipping. This is bad for you speakers so make sure when you tune the system that it doesnt blink to much at the max volume you want to listen at.

If you are getting signal, turn the volume down, plug the RCAs back in and see if you get sound. If you dont get sound then you have an issue with your amps.
 

adrianp89

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Assuming he does not have a amplified system... Nothing is wrong with his equipment... he needs the radio to sense a resistance load. Very common thing. This why the radio plays then cuts out. It goes into protect.
 
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baum

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i wish i could find it there was a diagram showing the lc2 and the resistors to use to get it to work. maybe if you contact audiocontrol they can tell you. i dont remember the ohm to use but you just put it between the pos and neg speaker wires.

on a side note just get the Pro loc that was listed above and call it a day.

on a side note i have one of the sony GS amps in my "beater" a '15 chrysler 200 for a sub. i used the high level with the signal sense for remote turn on it works great. but yes in order to get it to work i had to have the speakers also hooked up. i tried to do a 4-channel and i didnt have the info for the resistance at the time.
 
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wsutard1

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Assuming he does not have a amplified system... Nothing is wrong with his equipment... he needs the radio to sense a resistance load. Very common thing. This why the radio plays then cuts out. It goes into protect.

You sure about this? I run the LCQ-1, yes i know its different, but I have never had resistance issues. Is the LC2 really that different?

I have also had a stupid cheap LOC hooked up without issues as well, no resistors.
 

adrianp89

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You sure about this? I run the LCQ-1, yes i know its different, but I have never had resistance issues. Is the LC2 really that different?

I have also had a stupid cheap LOC hooked up without issues as well, no resistors.

I am not 100% on the 8.4, but I have come across this on multiple Chrysler platforms since 2006. Baum seemed to have the same issue in his 200. The issue is when you cut the speaker lines to add an amp. If you splice in a line (for like a subwoofer, or extra speakers) then this won't be an issue.

http://www.ramforum.com/f51/audiocontrol_lc2i_help-59199/index2.html
 
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wsutard1

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I would go back to my original point, with his amps and setups he needs a different LOC or processor. He has a 600/4 and a 750/1. You need 3 RCS outputs for that. Unless he is bridging the 600/4 into 2 but I highly doubt that.
 
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