Factory-fit enclosure with sub?

Does anybody make a factory-fit sub box with sub, like JL Audio does, but for an 06' Ram?

Pretty much the only premade sub boxes for an 06 are Fox boxes. The JL audio boxes with the sub are obscenely priced anyway. The ones for my last truck were close to 800 dollars and they honestly didnt sound all that great and took up the entire center console.

Are the Fox boxes, just a box or does it come with a sub/amp as well?

They are just the box. Which is a better option anyway since you get to pick the equipment that suits your budget instead of having to go with stuff that the manufacturer picked out.

How's the fit of those fox boxes? I've looked online at them for a while but couldn't pull the trigger without sole first hand accounts

Chief115 said:

How's the fit of those fox boxes? I've looked online at them for a while but couldn't pull the trigger without sole first hand accounts

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They're awesome I love mine. Fit in there like a glove and they're really well built. Sound great

justin13703 said:

They're awesome I love mine. Fit in there like a glove and they're really well built. Sound great

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Can you still sit in the rear seats and not crush the box or speakers?

Chief115 said:

Can you still sit in the rear seats and not crush the box or speakers?

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Yes they are designed to be sat on with the sub and box under there. They provide seat spacers with the box that slightly lifts the seat up so that the sub has clearance to the seat when it is moving, even with someone sitting in the seat.

No kidding. That's good stuff. Now, if only there was a DIY suns for dummies thread, maybe I could actually finish my "audio education"

Chief115 said:

No kidding. That's good stuff. Now, if only there was a DIY suns for dummies thread, maybe I could actually finish my "audio education"

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There are some diy sticky threads on here about audio upgrades, but if you have any questions just ask. I used to be an installer.

I just don't know anything about it. I can swap speakers and head units no problem. But when people start talking about subs, sub boxes, amps, capacitors, different wire gauges and interference, I just nod my head. I could not explain how to, or even do one whole system with those things because I know so little.

Chief115 said:

I just don't know anything about it. I can swap speakers and head units no problem. But when people start talking about subs, sub boxes, amps, capacitors, different wire gauges and interference, I just nod my head. I could not explain how to, or even do one whole system with those things because I know so little.

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Well there is potentially a lot of information that I could write out about what you just brought up, but I would have a book written here and you'd be just as confused after reading it because of all the information. So as far as amps/subs/speakers I'll keep it simple.

Pretty much everything audio related will have power ratings in watts. Most stuff gives 2 ratings, one called "Peak" and one called "RMS" or "Constant". When looking at audio equipment, do not look at the peak number at all. Completely disregard it. It literally means nothing. It is put on the box because it is a bigger number than the RMS rating, and manufacturers basically use it for shock value. RMS is the true power handling rating of the equipment. So when doing speakers, if your speakers have an RMS power rating of 75 watts each for example, you want a 4 channel amp that puts out as close to 75 watts RMS per channel as possible. Once again do not even look at "peak" numbers. Same goes for a subwoofer. If you have a 1000watt RMS sub, you want an amp that puts out right around 1000w RMS. There are also Impedence numbers that will change all these wattage numbers, but getting into that right now will just be throwing too much info at you at once. If you get to that point, or you want to talk about it in more detail, we can do that.

Sub boxes basically are built to a certain cubic foot number. This is basically the airspace inside the box. When you buy a sub, they usually give you a recommended airspace for the sub. This number should be close to the cubic feet of the box you have or are buying.

Capacitors are generally not needed and are used as sort of a last touch to an already complete audio system.

Wire gauge charts are available online, and basically tell you the wire gauge you need depending on the total amperage draw that the wire will have, and the total run distance in feet. This is normally only necessary for power feeds to amps and stuff like that. You won't have to worry about upgrading the speaker wire going to your door speakers unless you are making some massive amount of power. Speakers use AC power and can handle much more power through a much thinner wire. However power feeds to amps are DC, and this is why you have to use heavier gauge wire.

What does 4 channel amp mean?

How do you determine the number of channels you need?

Some good info in here..

A channel is basically a connection to a speaker. 4 channel means the amp has 4 output channels to be connected to speakers. These are generally used to amplify your door/dash speakers, and then a Mono amp for a subwoofer, or a dual channel amp if you want to do two subwoofers, although you can use a mono amp for two subwoofers and a dual channel amp for a single subwoofer. There are thousands of combinations.

So say you wanted to do 4 door speakers and 2 10 in subs. Would you need separate amps for the speakers and subs? Or what if you had 6 speakers. Do they have 6 channel amps?

Personally for that type of setup yes I would use two amps. A 4 channel for your speakers, and a mono (single channel) amp for the subs. Keep in mind that you don't necessarily have to amp your speakers, but if you are replacing them with higher end aftermarket ones, they are really meant to be amped.

And if you have 6 speakers, usually the 5th and 6th speaker are a dash tweeter or something like that. These don't put a very high load on the system and can usually be tapped into the front left and front right outputs from the amp, along with the front left and right speakers.

My truck has 6 speakers, Infinity Kappas in the doors and Polk tweeters in the dash locations, with a 4 channel 850w RMS amp under the driver seat, and a 10" Alpine Type R in a fox box under the back seat, with a 500w RMS mono amp under the passenger seat. I'm extremely happy with the setup.

justin13703 said:

Personally for that type of setup yes I would use two amps. A 4 channel for your speakers, and a mono (single channel) amp for the subs. Keep in mind that you don't necessarily have to amp your speakers, but if you are replacing them with higher end aftermarket ones, they are really meant to be amped.

And if you have 6 speakers, usually the 5th and 6th speaker are a dash tweeter or something like that. These don't put a very high load on the system and can usually be tapped into the front left and front right outputs from the amp, along with the front left and right speakers.

My truck has 6 speakers, Infinity Kappas in the doors and Polk tweeters in the dash locations, with a 4 channel 850w RMS amp under the driver seat, and a 10" Alpine Type R in a fox box under the back seat, with a 500w RMS mono amp under the passenger seat. I'm extremely happy with the setup.

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That does sound great. I'm in the planning stages right now. I'm picking up the truck I just bought later today, and I'm deploying real soon. So I'll be spending the foreseeable future just getting ideas so I can do them when I'm back

Chief115 said:

That does sound great. I'm in the planning stages right now. I'm picking up the truck I just bought later today, and I'm deploying real soon. So I'll be spending the foreseeable future just getting ideas so I can do them when I'm back

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Sounds like a good plan