Sub Box Build #2

PCA4208 · Feb 8, 2014

Well I wasn't happy with the box I previously built. I made it a bit too big deep wise, and it hits my seat a bit and forces me to moves forward about 2 inches. So I made the decision to make a new box. I designed it all in a 3d CAD software, and used other calculators to figure which size and style would suit my sub the best. 1.8 cubic feet plus a 3" port with a length that will make it perfect to tune to 40htz.
Here's the start we got on it today. I regret not taking many pictures, I'll get more tomorrow when I carpet the box.

This is the jig me and my friend made to cut out the hole with a router.

LS5DodgeRam · Feb 9, 2014

nice, i am assuming this fits a 12? i have a pioneer shallow mount ten inch right now... and i was thinking of upgrading to a 12... do the 12s fit nicely behind a standard cab?

White Beauty · Feb 9, 2014

more pics!!

PCA4208 · Feb 9, 2014

This should fit perfect behind my seat. I'll see if I can show you the plans from the CAD software. Yes it'll hold a 12" Kicker CompVR. I used all those weird specs for subwoofers in a special software that shows how it'll perform in a box of a certain size and tuned to a certain Htz.

WhiteExpress · Feb 9, 2014

Is that box square or does the front lean back? I can't see in the pictures.
It's looking great, I'm excited to hear about your results.

LB3711 · Feb 9, 2014

nice. want to build me one? lol

PCA4208 · Feb 9, 2014

WhiteExpress said:
Is that box square or does the front lean back? I can't see in the pictures.
It's looking great, I'm excited to hear about your results.

No It's perfectly square, I think my angle on the camera made it look distorted.
I should be getting some carpet on it today. Hopefully all the wood glue dried. I sealed every edge inside and out with dobs of glue. So if my friend can bring it over, I'm going to sand all the joints smooth with my orbital sander, then get to carpeting.

LB3711 said:
nice. want to build me one? lol

Me and my friend were debating building these for people, This particular box took 2 weeks to "complete" but thats just because I was sick for a week, and he had class at night. The cutting the wood part only took about 2 hours.

PCA4208 · Feb 9, 2014

Here's my 3D model using SketchUp for Mac

LS5DodgeRam · Feb 9, 2014

thats nice man are you familar with MasterCam? that is the cad/cam software that i have been using

PCA4208 · Feb 9, 2014

No I haven't. Is it on Mac or PC?

LS5DodgeRam · Feb 10, 2014

PC it is the CAD/CAM system we used in engineering in my school

PCA4208 · Feb 10, 2014

Cool. I'll have to check it out on my laptop.

205 Daytona · Feb 14, 2014

Are you planning to countersink the sub before you carpet the box? Just a suggestion if you were not considering it. Flush mount 12's sometimes have a tendency to have the baskets resonate when they are not countersunk. This is usually due to the air pushing past the baskets that are flush mounted by only 4 screws and leaking at the rim. Countersinking the sub by 3/8's, assuming you're using 3/4 GIS plywood, would rectify the problem.

NO criticism intended. Used to install mobile audio for a living.

PCA4208 · Feb 14, 2014

No, not counter sinking it. This wood is only 5/8" and adding a countersink won't give it much wood to mount onto. I could probably build a ring to go around the sub then fiberglass it, but I really don't have time. I just want to get this done honestly. I plan to carpet it at least by tomorrow afternoon, and by the evening it should be ready to install.

205 Daytona · Feb 15, 2014

No point in building a ring, it's counter intuitive, especially on a ported box.

Know how you feel in just wanting to get it done and going.

I'm sure it will end up just sounding great!

PCA4208 · Feb 15, 2014

It should, as I said I spent about three days designing it. Using specialty programs and simulators that will show how this specific sub would perform in this box. I figure tuning it to 40hz will get the best sound. I might pick up a special tuning tool to find where the distortion is in the volume, then set gains and crossovers with it.

205 Daytona · Feb 15, 2014

RTA is the best for doing what you are suggesting. Not sure if you have access to one of these, but they are awesome for tuning, if you are using active Xovers. Kind of moot if not. I always tuned for frequency vs gains ... anyone can pin an amp to bump their sub, but to get them to woomp at the desired frequency is an art.

I could get standing waves from Pink Floyd's Welcome to the Machine. Would literally have peeps grasping for the door handles

PCA4208 · Feb 15, 2014

I'd be using this thing. http://www.damoreengineering.com/dd1.html

It detects distortion equally as good as an actual oscilloscope. It works pretty well from what I've seen, and it's selling on amazon for 149.

205 Daytona · Feb 15, 2014

buck forty nine .... wow.

We used scopes' back in the day .... 4k investment right there. We were the best custom shop in the city, hands down .... seems now that a guy with the right knowhow to use the right equipment can do an admirable job. Though, I've always been a stickler for 3/4 GIS ply vs any sort of composite or MDF when building boxes ... old school, just like me

Glad to see someone actually doing the math these days! Too many take the cheapo route and have the end result sound like ***** and not know why, heh. Just because one buys the best, doesn't mean it will sound the best, especially if you don't have a sniff of what you're doing.

Rock on man!

PCA4208 · Feb 15, 2014

Thanks man. I really take time to plan out this **** it out.. Sometimes..
With my first box I think I kind rushed it a bit, just because I wanted bass haha. But this one I've taken my time on.

I'll get some pics tomorrow of carpeting and hopefully install.

Sub Box Build #2

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