Uconnect/stereo wiring question on a post 1st owner 05

Drunken Hamster · Sep 30, 2017

I have this Uconnect crap here that's useless. IDK if that's stock or was modded in before I got the truck, but my front door speakers don't play music through them, and neither do my dash speakers. I think only the dash speakers play the Uconnect voice through them.

Could all of this be mis-wiring, or are the front door speakers fried, or both? {{getting a new sound system anyway, but I need to know if I'm going to do the install myself. I already have the head unit, though.}}

Also, ff my truck had the infinity system, would it say so on the speaker grill? If not, how would I know?

chrisp2493 · Sep 30, 2017

Uconnect in an 05 truck? I don't think that's stock at all. You mean like a radio from a newer ram? Pic please haha!

Drunken Hamster · Sep 30, 2017

https://imgur.com/dw9J5wL
https://imgur.com/mqSAXhx

This sht. Wtf?

chrisp2493 · Sep 30, 2017

Wow no idea what that's about. That is definitely not stock. My guess is some kind of Bluetooth calling microphone. I would say just carefully tear it all out and start brand new. Especially if you have another radio. Who knows what you are going to find behind the existing radio.

Drunken Hamster · Sep 30, 2017

Gonna schedule to go with the free head-unit installation at the Best Buy I bought it from. Think they'll take that sht out for free and re-wire it all correctly??

chrisp2493 · Sep 30, 2017

No idea, I do my own work. I hate paying other people unless I have no option to do it myself

Drunken Hamster · Oct 4, 2017

Well, I went and had them do the free install. Dude took this useless thing out and said it was really old school. I saw it, myself, and it was bulky and stupid looking. No wonder why it didn't work.

Either way, it all worked out in the end. I think I effed up one of my last two remaining speakers with the new headunit. It puts out 55w per channel, and I put it to bass boost 5 and cranked it up to 30/35 with BT volume offset maxed and phone volume maxed.

So... bye bye stock paper speakers? I mean, they still work, but my mom thinks that the left one was blown. Oh well. Speakers were on the list, anyway, as the fronts don't work at all. I think I'm gonna go 6.5's all around and two 10" subs under the back seat.

Down the line, the doors will get amped to 150w per speaker, and the subs will be fed 400w each. should be just enough to carry clear sounds from the right speakers all the way up to 'permanent damage' levels just fine.

Oh, and as long as they keep offering free installs and discounts and stuff, I might as well go with them, don't you think? I mean, it's all backed by warranty, too, so, that's good, right?

chrisp2493 · Oct 4, 2017

Hey you can’t beat a free install as long as the installer knows what he is doing.
150 watts per speaker? Seems crazy high. I’ve only ever had about 65 Watts rms to mine and they are plants loud.
I wouldn’t worry about replacing the back speakers in the truck unless you frequently have passengers back there. You really don’t hear them from the front seat. Spend some extra money towards a decent set of component speakers, especially if you can install the tweeters in the a-piller trim. If you’ve never had a set like that, you would be amazed how much better they sound. It makes the music sound like it’s coming from the windshield instead of the doors. I have a set of kicker components, $200 speakers I got on sale for $100, they’ve lasted almost 6 years now and still sound awesome. I’ll have to get a pick of my tweeters if you are interested in that route

Drunken Hamster · Oct 4, 2017

I just figured I'd get coaxials and call it a day. I DO frequently have passengers back there, lol. I MIGHT do a custom chop and cut my truck into an extended cab and shorten the bed to 6ft even and use the advantage for a shorter wheelbase, but IDK. At that point I'd end up putting multiple speakers in the front doors. Like a 6.5 and a 4 or something. IDK, really, it all seems really confusing when you get into multiple speaker sizes, and component speakers, and all of that.

I guess 150 watts is fairly high. I just thought that was normal for an all out build. maybe just 100w RMS per speaker, and then 400 per sub.

Well, actually, what would you consider 'low' 'normal' and 'high' as far as watt power goes RMS per speaker and subwoofer in a balanced build.

Gonna be limited to 2 10's under the rear seat, or 1 10 in the lower front center console, at best. What's the best speaker size to complement these, and what power should I run to each speaker and sub?

chrisp2493 · Oct 4, 2017

Like I said, 65rms is a fairly standard number for 6.5” speakers, I’ve never had a time I thought they needed to be louder. I used to listen to music pretty loud in my old car and that’s all I had running to them. I had 400 Watts rms to a 12” and it was sufficient, but definitely not the loudest setup around. It all depends on how loud your normal volume is. I’m only running about 150 rms to a 10” kicker in a truck box and that’s fine with me. So that’s all personal preference.
Here’s my tweeter setup. After hearing components I would never waste my money on coaxials again, especially if I was doing a performance build

there’s plenty of room in the puller to mount them and all it takes is a small hole saw.

Drunken Hamster · Oct 4, 2017

Shouldn't it be facing the passengers more? Also, what would I do with the component tweeters of the rear speakers? SHOULD I go 6.5's? Or would 5.25's be a better match for two 10's all round?

chrisp2493 · Oct 4, 2017

I’ve had better luck with them facing forward, where the sound is kinda aimed at the center of the windshield. It kinda creates a sound space that comes from in front of you, not from the speakers being pointed right at you. I wouldn’t waste money on component in the back unless you really loved your passengers or you wanted a full audio build for show. I don’t even have my rear speakers attached to an amp, they are just running off the power from the radio. That’s how little they affect your sound up front

Drunken Hamster · Oct 4, 2017

I see. But shouldn't the dash speakers {3.5 sides, 2.5 center} provide the frontal sound?

Then again, you can't really wire those to be separate from your TRUE front {door} speakers and your rear speakers. Freakin radios just don't split enough channels out.

Some vehicles are long enough to have FIVE rows of seating. Imagine 5 L/R channels, plus another for the dash, and another for the subs.

Does anything like that exist? No! Because there are only 3 freaking pre-outs on everything I've seen so far. And only 4 channel speaker amps, too.

chrisp2493 · Oct 4, 2017

I don’t have the dash speakers. Just out of curiosity are you sure you do? That might only be on the infinity system.

Drunken Hamster · Oct 4, 2017

I probably don't HAVE them, but I can see the grills up there. Think the interior was swapped out in my truck? Think I might actually HAVE infinity?

{{Kinda doubt it. Installer said the Uconnect thing was stock and that nothing had been butchered up behind the dash....}}

chrisp2493 · Oct 4, 2017

The grills will be there regardless. They are there in my truck, just no speakers behind them

chrisp2493 · Oct 4, 2017

I have a hard time believing that uconnect or whatever it was was stock. I’ve never seen that before, and with the wires running on the outside of the panels it looks like it was added. If it was factory, I’m sure you wouldn’t have the wires hanging there.

Drunken Hamster · Oct 4, 2017

Ohhhhhhh.... Hmm. Okay, so shouldn't I just put my component tweeters there? And if I do, should I get bigger tweeters? Like 2" or 2.5"??

EDIT:: It had Chrysler branding on multiple parts of it. Maybe it was added after purchase, but was an option on a higher trim level?

chrisp2493 · Oct 4, 2017

I stand corrected. I didn’t know dodge had hands free stuff in the trucks that early. Crutchfield has a good article I just read through that pointed it out.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-McUIdAHFTci/learn/2002-dodge-ram-1500-quad-cab-with-7-speakers.html
Sorry for the mis info.

Drunken Hamster · Oct 4, 2017

It's fine. I myself just learned that tweeters really only go up to 1.5" in actual cone size. Can something that small really produce enough sound to not get drowned out by even a 3.5"-4" midrange speaker?

Also, finally, should I just go with 2 6.5 coax for rears, and two 6.5 component fronts with the two 10's sub option, or should I try to splice in 3.5" speakers in the dash, too????

Uconnect/stereo wiring question on a post 1st owner 05

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