2011 Ram 1500 LSD Install

Hello again!

Posted in the 4th Gen forum about traction issues (1 wheel peel), and ended up buying a new 9.25 LSD from Moe's. I searched for recent activity, and found bupkis. So I post another thread.

Has anyone installed one of these?

I have two main concerns:

1) I can't get the old one out. The cover is off and the rear axles are pulled out. According to the Haynes manual, there are like 4 different possible rear end scenario's for this truck, and this is none of them. I had to remove the calipers and rotors to get the axles out, but that is not the problem. It looks like the ends of the original "conventional" differential are hitting some sort of threaded pipe on each side of the housing/axle assy. Pry bars are not working. Should I torch the ends? What will melt first - the old differential, or the housing? Any suggestions?

2) The new LSD looks very similar to the original, which I know only spins one tire while I swear at it in the snow. It has 4 (planetary?) gears, like the original. How can I tell my newly paid for differential isn't exactly the same as the one I am losing my mind trying to replace?

All thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks - dunney

Just to update:

The differential is in. Took several days, which is longer than I wanted, but with no instructions and no real tech support, I'm OK with it.

Helpful tips:

1) I think I ordered it from Matt at Moe's on a Friday, and it arrived at my house in NH from TX on Monday, free shipping. Matt is awesome! However, I don't think he has actually done one of these, so don't expect him you walk you through it.

2) Buy a Haynes or Chilton to help you take it apart (the half shafts can be tricky).

2) Plan on this taking a couple days. You're going to need 24 hours just for the RTV on the new gasket to arrive.

3) AHEAD OF TIME buy 3 quarts of 75-140 differential oil, a tube of LSD oil (to prevent chattering), a tube of differential RTV (there's like 20 different kinds now), and unless you have an arbor press, get the bearings pressed on before hand (tapered end facing out). This will probably save you a day.

4) Getting the old one out is a bit of a Houdini trick. After you drain it, get the cover off, and pull out the half shafts (not all the way), the differential is still held in place by two large threaded tubes, one on each side. You have to spin these about 2 full turns to make enough room to remove the differential. It mentions this nowhere in Haynes manual.

5) Matt sends you a gasket, but I still put RTV on both sides and waited the suggested 24 hours. I have seen first hand the result of not waiting 24 hours, so opted for the safe route (not my usual MO but I didn't feel like doing this twice).

6) It says to refill the carrier (housing) through the drain plug, filling the LSD additive first, until it gets to the bottom of the drain plug hole. I can't even get the 7 oz. tube all the way in and it's pouring out all over me, After carpet f-bombing my garage, I find that there is a SECOND DRAIN PLUG in the back, higher than the other. Again, this it not mentioned anywhere. Mother f.....

And that's it. Rotated the tires while I had the wheels off, took it for an easy spin around the block, then happily laid some patches in my driveway. Send me a message if you have specific questions.

dunney said:

Just to update:

The differential is in. Took several days, which is longer than I wanted, but with no instructions and no real tech support, I'm OK with it.

Helpful tips:

1) I think I ordered it from Matt at Moe's on a Friday, and it arrived at my house in NH from TX on Monday, free shipping. Matt is awesome! However, I don't think he has actually done one of these, so don't expect him you walk you through it.

2) Buy a Haynes or Chilton to help you take it apart (the half shafts can be tricky).

2) Plan on this taking a couple days. You're going to need 24 hours just for the RTV on the new gasket to arrive.

3) AHEAD OF TIME buy 3 quarts of 75-140 differential oil, a tube of LSD oil (to prevent chattering), a tube of differential RTV (there's like 20 different kinds now), and unless you have an arbor press, get the bearings pressed on before hand (tapered end facing out). This will probably save you a day.

4) Getting the old one out is a bit of a Houdini trick. After you drain it, get the cover off, and pull out the half shafts (not all the way), the differential is still held in place by two large threaded tubes, one on each side. You have to spin these about 2 full turns to make enough room to remove the differential. It mentions this nowhere in Haynes manual.

....

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Thanks for posting. I plan to do the same on my '15. I've built several Ford 8.8 and GM 12 bolt rears but they do not have the threaded tubes you mentioned. On older Chrysler rear ends, there are threaded ends that help set bearing pre-load. Not sure that is the case with our trucks or not but do listen for bearing noise which could indicate a pre-load problem. Hope it will not be an issue for you.

abbout the LSD instal

It good to read that there are till guy out there willing to have a go at these sort of things.
I'm stuck in the middle east with my 2015 ram 1500.
I really need to get either a Locker or good LSD to help with traction in the loose sand we have here.
And there seems to be little available for us non ford types
You posted that you fitted a LSD can I ask is it possible to fit it to a 9.25 zf axle in the 2015 ram I have.
And has it stopped the dreaded single wheel spin problem we have with our trucks ?

I think this is the mopar PN that we need: 68053299AF You can find it for about $525. I've not bought one yet b/c I'm waiting till winter is over since I'll be installing it outdoors.

You will also need carrier bearings: 68067933AA

I've built several GM and Ford rears and one big difference in the RAM is it has side adjusters for carrier bearing pre-load. GM and Ford use shims. I'm not sure if the side adjusters can be left alone during removal and just put back where they were during assembly or not. When installing new bearings, which we would need to do, that may upset the pre-load due to manufacturing differences that would change pre-load. However, when I just changed bearings on Ford rears, I just re-use the factory shims and have never had issues.

I've ordered all of the parts needed to do this to my 2011, and am hopeful come April for completion.

DRkNESS said:

I've ordered all of the parts needed to do this to my 2011, and am hopeful come April for completion.

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If you learn what to do with the adjustable carrier bearings, let us know. I'll do some research too.

Mopar LSD fitted last week.
Wow its a totally different truck.
Gone is the 1 wheel peel.
And now its hard to describe but you feel the traction and the shove the Hemi so much more. I'm in the desert again soon to see if the advantages are going to be as great there as they are on the road.
Thanks again for the part numbers guys.

Good deal, and happy that you've posted your thoughts about it. I've gathered all of the parts needed to do this, but sadly it's all up for sale. I'm working on another project and this will have to take a back seat, so I may as well let someone else enjoy the stuff.

And this is for the ZF differential; nobody has an aftermarket one, right?

BigDogg795 said:

And this is for the ZF differential; nobody has an aftermarket one, right?

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Auburn makes an aftermarket LSD for the zf rear as well, but it is about $200 more expensive and less reliable than the OEM.

Hemi450hp said:

Auburn makes an aftermarket LSD for the zf rear as well, but it is about $200 more expensive and less reliable than the OEM.

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Hmmm, good to know...good to know. Thanks!