Help get Silver running again!!

May as well add it to your list at the very very very bottom, if you go through every option, pull the sidewinder and put the stocker back in and see how it runs.

truckin151 said:

May as well add it to your list at the very very very bottom, if you go through every option, pull the sidewinder and put the stocker back in and see how it runs.

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that is not happening...

brake cleaner is better to clean the tb. just the makeup of the chemical. carb cleaner is good for carbs, and will be ok for the actual throttle body, but if it touches any of the electronics, it could really screw them up. as long as you're spraying the rag and not the tb, you should be ok with carb cleaner. most people just use brake cleaner and spray the tb directly (still avoiding the electronics as much as possible).

looking forward to seeing if theres any improvement at all tomorrow after the exhaust gets done and you do another reset (loading the 91 tune back on)

Silverbullet08 said:

that is not happening...

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I said very last resort.... if another few weeks pass and you are still out a truck cause it won't run, id be pulling it apart again and redoing it

alright well then ill get brake cleaner lol i called the shop today and they couldnt give me an exact quote on what to do. it will prob be around 60 to 100 though... they open at 8am so i will be there on the dot

Are they aware the truck is not safe to operate to get it in there shop besides for pushing it? I would give them a heads up, because if not they might refuse to pull it in or two foot it right into a lift. Was it comp that had a bad batch of cores awhile back? I didnt see a date on the card glancing at it.

i can push it 5 ft if it needs be. truck will drive fine in drive...

truckin151 said:

I said very last resort.... if another few weeks pass and you are still out a truck cause it won't run, id be pulling it apart again and redoing it

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I hate to say it but as a last resort that is about all that is left. Pull it apart, go step by step and retrace everything until you find the problem. It sucks but that might be what this ends up coming too if the other things don't fix the issue.

Silverbullet08 said:

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What did it have on the end of the cam?

It ran fine for a few minutes and then wouldn't idle. This really sounds like something melted or if backfired, popped a hose off. This is something simple. I would touch and test everything that is connected to the engine that might have been moved during the install. Fire it up and carefully touch each exhaust port to see if all the cylinders are firing. If there is a cold cylinder then I would pull the spark plugs. Have you added some gas just to make sure it isn't empty?

Random thought, did the cam come with the +4* cam gear. I think the sidewinder uses one but not 100% sure

glass3222 said:

Random thought, did the cam come with the +4* cam gear. I think the sidewinder uses one but not 100% sure

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Not needed, the +4 is ground into the cam.

Before you take everything apart... Have you tested any of the easy components?, or take each sensor off and clean/inspect/test them yourself. I just know you fried something when you arc'd that wrench. Test your alternator yet?

I got this from the service manual.

ENGINE WARM-UP MODE
This is an Open Loop mode. During engine warmup,
the PCM receives inputs from:
² Battery voltage
² Crankshaft position sensor
² Engine coolant temperature sensor
² Intake manifold air temperature sensor
² Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
² Throttle position sensor (TPS)
² Camshaft position sensor signal
² Park/neutral switch (gear indicator signal—auto.
trans. only)
² Air conditioning select signal (if equipped)
² Air conditioning request signal (if equipped)
Based on these inputs the following occurs:
² Voltage is applied to the fuel injectors with the
ASD relay via the PCM. The PCM will then control
the injection sequence and injector pulse width by
turning the ground circuit to each individual injector
on and off.
² The PCM adjusts engine idle speed through the
idle air control (IAC) motor and adjusts ignition timing.
² The PCM operates the A/C compressor clutch
through the A/C compressor clutch relay. This is done
if A/C has been selected by the vehicle operator and
specified pressures are met at the high and low–pressure
A/C switches. Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning
for additional information.
² When engine has reached operating temperature,
the PCM will begin monitoring O2S sensor
input. The system will then leave the warm-up mode
and go into closed loop operation.

I would try turning the AC on and off to see if it raises the idle, basically to check the PCM if it is responding. O2 sensors according to the manual don't come into play until the engine temp is up. There is a list of sensors that feed the PCM. I would check the wiring and the plugs to insure proper connections, meaning pull them apart and look at the pins to make sure they are not bent. Especially the IAC. This really feels to me like a wiring/plug problem. I think getting the pipes done will help with the trouble shooting only because it will reduce all the damn noise. I don't think it will solve the problem.

Off_Road_Teacher said:

Not needed, the +4 is ground into the cam.

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I must be thinking of the crazy frog grind.....my bad

where is the idle control valve?

Off_Road_Teacher said:

I hate to say it but as a last resort that is about all that is left. Pull it apart, go step by step and retrace everything until you find the problem. It sucks but that might be what this ends up coming too if the other things don't fix the issue.

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I would only do this as a last resort, but if nothing else fixes it at least A.) you can check everything as you go back through, maybe there is a wire that was crimped that cant be seen or something isn't quite right somewhere and B.) you can put the stocker back in to eliminate the possibility that the cam was bad. At that point though whats another couple days of it being down.

me not feeling comfortable about doing the swap would be the issue...

There has to be some guys in the area that can help

cam shaft position sensor maybe