Having trouble putting headers on

Dettnator87 · Jan 28, 2016

Im having trouble putting hedman shorty headers on the driver side of my 01 dodge ram 1500 5.9L 4x4. I can get the first three bolts in but i cant get the clearance for the last three and im not sure what i can take off is there anybody out there that can help me figure this thing out?

Rustycowl69 · Jan 28, 2016

It's not clear to me what the problem is. Can you post pics and/or be more clear what the exact problem is?

butterscotch71 · Jan 30, 2016

I recall years ago having to do the rear header bolts on my 96 by feel. They're so far back you really can't get to them easily.

Mohpar · Jan 31, 2016

butterscotch71 said:
I recall years ago having to do the rear header bolts on my 96 by feel. They're so far back you really can't get to them easily.

Yep. Did mine about a month ago. The driver's side install involves you with your face at the windshield standing over/in the engine and trying to reach back and feel the holes to get the bolts started. To tighten I found an open ended wrench works best, just have to feel around and get it on.

It's a total pain, took like 4 hours to install them.

For best results, keep checking where the header meets the collector pipe, at the donut flange. Make sure it gets mated properly or you'll have 1/2 open headers

butterscotch71 · Jan 31, 2016

I used stage 8 fasteners with locking tab so I didn't have to worry as much about torque on the bolts.

butterscotch71 · Jan 31, 2016

Stage 8s look like this. I seem to remember having trouble getting a socket over the last bolt and had to use the allen wrench on it.

dapepper9 · Jan 31, 2016

Stage 8s are great but not for the price. Simple grade 5, 5/16 thread, 1" length will do just fine long as you re-tq em. I didn't and 6 months later, during iowa winter, I just got a leak from the passenger side. Tightened em up and i have $3 in bolts instead of $100+. Make sure good gaskets are used though

Mohpar · Jan 31, 2016

dapepper9 said:
Stage 8s are great but not for the price. Simple grade 5, 5/16 thread, 1" length will do just fine long as you re-tq em. I didn't and 6 months later, during iowa winter, I just got a leak from the passenger side. Tightened em up and i have $3 in bolts instead of $100+. Make sure good gaskets are used though

I have them as well. I'm going to disagree because it virtually eliminated my exhaust leaks, but yes you're correct, they're just hardware store bolts. I don't really regret buying them but if I had to do it again I'd just get regular bolts. I do like the allen key head however...

Merc225hp · Jan 31, 2016

Fancy header bolts are for Chevys and Fords, they are the ones known for header bolts backing off. I just use plain old 12 point header bolts like $20 for the set. Tq them twice and u should never have touch them again.

Rustycowl69 · Jan 31, 2016

from the stamping on the head they appear to be grade 8 bolts. Disregarding the locking tab system, they are both socket head(female) AND external hex- headed(male), and gr8. The only way to consider them just hardware store bolts is because they are threaded, which would include almost every type of fastener used in the last 100 years, which seems rediculous.

Jimmy68 · Jan 31, 2016

Merc225hp said:
Fancy header bolts are for Chevys and Fords, they are the ones known for header bolts backing off. I just use plain old 12 point header bolts like $20 for the set. Tq them twice and u should never have touch them again.

Chevy's, I had a 350 Chevy that kept spitting out spark plugs. :roflsquared:

butterscotch71 · Jan 31, 2016

They are grade 8 and stainless. I've had them on my truck since around 1998 and never re-torqued them. Costly yes, but I was not able to get a socket on the last bolt or two because of the size of the JBA header and the allen key was the only way to go. I don't remember them costing nearly $100 back then though.

Having trouble putting headers on

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