Heat problem

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Dodeman

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I have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 2 wd drive with the 5.9 in it. The other day i was going down the road and my truck cut off after the no bus popped up where the mileages is at. Well i got that problem fixed and fired it back up. Now the problem i have is my heat wont blow out like it should when its on low and high. Heat will come out the vents but its slow. Blower motor acts like its not working or not getting power to it. What would be the best way to see if the motor is bad or if its something else? I need heat cause its suppose to be cold this weekend and i dont want to be an ice cube driving lol
 

dudeman2009

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Magnum 360
I'm assuming you are saying the motor does spin, just not fast. Meat ball is right, if it wont spin at all, check the fuses.

First, put the switch on high, that bypasses the blower motor resistor array and should provide straight ground to the motor.

If the motor wont get up to speed, i'd suspect the motor. There is a way to test that, though its not super easy.

You need two jumper wires, and a spare battery or a long pair of jumper cables. Under the passenger foot well is the blower motor. You want a two pin connector. It should have a dark green and black/tan wires. Unplug that. Now you need to have your jumper cables hooked up to a vehicle battery, or two jumper wires and a spare battery. Hook one jumper wire to each pin on the blower motor the position for the dark green wire is positive, the black/tan wire is negative. It helps to mark the negative jumper wire with electrical tape. Make sure the two jumpers aren't touching each other in the connector. Then hook the positive jumper coming from the dark green wire to battery positive, and the other jumper wire to battery negative. The blower should come on full force. If not, the blower is bad. If it does come on full force, we will have to continue troubleshooting.

EDIT: Checking for voltage won't do anything, Chrysler is weird and makes things different from chevy and ford. The blower motor is supplied straight battery voltage, it doesn't pass through any resistor array. The blower motor ground is fed through either the selector switch or the blower motor resistors then the selector switch. All resistors will measure 0V no matter the setting chosen on the switch. Measuring for continuity to ground will also do nothing for you as this is a high power application, not a very low power sensor. Your meter could read just fine near 0 ohms (for the high setting), but when a load is applied it could be much too high a resistance to operate properly.
 
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Meatball12

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if its not blowing at all then the first step is to check the fuses. If they are good then it could be either the resistor block or the motor.

if the middle two fan settings don't work, but full blast does, then it is most likely the resistor block.

best way to test the motor is to pull it out and get a multimeter to the plug to verify that you are getting the proper voltages on all fan speed settings.
 
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Dodeman

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I cant hear the motor turn. I know there is heat coming through the vents cause i can feel it but it doesnt matter if its on low or on high or in between i cant hear the motor turn at all. I put my hand on it to just see if i can feel it turning and nothing.
 

Meatball12

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Then check to make sure you are getting current to the plug. If you are then Congrats you have a bad motor. If there is no current at the plug, check it at the resistor block and control knob.
 
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Dodeman

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Okay. I will check to see if i am. Im just hoping the motor is bad instand
 

dudeman2009

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Okay. I will check to see if i am. Im just hoping the motor is bad instand

If the fuse is good, you need to check for voltage on the dark green wire (may be a lighter green after all these years). That is the battery feed line. To test the motor, perform the steps I described, or Ohm check the motor. Ohm checking the motor will reveal if it is simply open, however it won't indicate much more than that. The likely hood of the control switch failing on the motor side, but the backlighting and bled door working (if the servo driven version) is slim.
 
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Dodeman

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I got it fixed today. I went ahead and replace the blower motor and the resistor. Pull fused also and put a new one in while i was going and it all went to working again. Pulled the motor and resistor out of a 98 dodge ram. The resistor in my truck was broke when i took it out. Thank god i got heat again cause its a pita to try to get ice off the windsheild in the mornings and its a cold ride to work with no heat
 
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