I don't know much at all about cars/trucks...

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Silent Assassin

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So can someone please help me understand what this hose goes to?

It's coming from the firewall, and isn't connected to anything. I'm sure there's something missing, but I don't know what.. Thanks guys..

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Also, I got my Spectre CAI all installed, but it looks like I'm going to need a clamp that holds it securely to the throttle body.. This truck came without a clean air intake box, all that was there was the remnants of a K&N system, there was no clamp nor any gasket.. I picked up a gasket from AutoZone today, but that wasn't enough, I really need that clamp.. Does anyone know a part number or where I can order the exact OEM spec clamp online?

Spectre CAI has no bolt through the top as a way to tighten it to the throttle body, like other CAI's, so that clamp is absolutely necessary in order to keep air and grime out..

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Okiespaniel

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It's a heater hose....and the pics show that the heater's been disconnected, bypassed, whatever you wish to call it. I bet the core leaks and this was the redneck repair.
The hose crossing over the front of your engine with the concolute tubing on it connects the two heater fittings on the engine.

What you need is not a clamp for your air box, but the appropriate threaded rod, perhaps bent, and the nit to tighten it. should be a hole in the top of the air hat to tighten it down...
...or if you need a clamp, you might have to try a dealer or salvage yard.
 
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Silent Assassin

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So this truck has no heat?

I just got the air conditioner to work in it... Had to replace a fuse and recharge the freon in it, it's blowing cold now, but loud as all hell..
 
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Silent Assassin

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Spectre CAI's don't have the hole on the top of the air hat.. It just sits on top of the throttle body..
 

dodge dude94

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Got the instructions that came with it? lol

Okie is right on the money as far as the heater core bypass, you can bet that core leaks. So I wouldn't even bother putting it back together until the core is replaced.
 

WhiteExpress

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Oh man! That sucks! heater cores in Gen II Ram's is an expensive job!
I don't mean this offensively, but if you didn't know what a heater hose was, there's no way in hell you should tackle replacing the core. It's a long process involving removing the dash etc.

I hope you got a REALLY good deal on that truck!
 

Andler2008

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hell my question is how did the PO cap it off at the water pump? Got any pictures of that? It should be a small hole on the top right side of the water pump. I'm guessing the black tube is no longer there that that hose connects to.
 
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Silent Assassin

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What does the heater core affect? It starts and runs, aside from slight jerkiness and bouncing in the RPM's when I slow down and as I'm sitting at the light (although it shuddered and cut off while waiting in the drive thru of McDonalds).. I haven't went anywhere far in it, maybe 20 miles max..

I'm also having the issue with no brake lights, but I'm guessing that's the ABS Sensor, because the ABS and Brake lights come on after driving for about 5 minutes.. I'm going to change that on the rear differential.. (Saw that after googling)..

I'm going to have to replace the entire exhaust system underneath also, as its rusted and missing in several places..

As far as cost, I only paid $1300 for it, so it's essentially a project for me.. Aside from replacing a transmission, I'm prepared to eat some cost, and/or do some of the work myself..
 

dodge dude94

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Heater core doesn't affect anything, just make you cold in the winter time.

Bouncing in engine RPM and dying is caused by a dirty or dying IAC valve on the throttle body.

No brake lights would more than likely be the ABS sensor on the rear diff.
 
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Silent Assassin

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Ahhhh, I live in Atlanta, so I could conceivably get by without heat, or just not drive the truck on cold days.. It won't make the engine run hot or anything?

The air conditioner is certainly blowing cold, I rode about 20 minutes yesterday..
 

dodge dude94

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Nope, won't make it run hot.

And yes, the air conditioner will work much better when the heater core is bypassed as the heater is effectively running all year round. I wish I could get some sort of valve on these damn hoses so I could make my air cooler....
 

crazzywolfie

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you can DD. you just have to get creative with how you control the heater control valve. you could order a heater control valve for a 76 and possibly use a mechanical choke cable to control it or you could order heater control valve for a 93 and get a vacuum solenoid and wire it up so that it only comes on when a/c is on.
 
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Silent Assassin

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hell my question is how did the PO cap it off at the water pump? Got any pictures of that? It should be a small hole on the top right side of the water pump. I'm guessing the black tube is no longer there that that hose connects to.

I will check this and take pictures when I get home from work tomorrow afternoon..

I'm hoping the truck doesn't need a heater core, and I can just bypass the fix..
 

dodge dude94

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you can DD. you just have to get creative with how you control the heater control valve. you could order a heater control valve for a 76 and possibly use a mechanical choke cable to control it or you could order heater control valve for a 93 and get a vacuum solenoid and wire it up so that it only comes on when a/c is on.

I was talking about a semi-permanent bypass. Like that which is on my 76, but only switchable under the hood. So if you know you'll be using A/C more then heat, you just go under the hood, flip a lever and the heater core is blocked off. Then when you're using a mix you just turn it back on and it's stock at that point.
 

crazzywolfie

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why would you want it to only be switchable from under the hood? older trucks with a/c came with a heater control valve that would block coolant from flowing through the heater core when the a/c is on.
I will check this and take pictures when I get home from work tomorrow afternoon..

I'm hoping the truck doesn't need a heater core, and I can just bypass the fix..
just hook a hose to it and you should find out if it is leaking.
 

PCA4208

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I was talking about a semi-permanent bypass. Like that which is on my 76, but only switchable under the hood. So if you know you'll be using A/C more then heat, you just go under the hood, flip a lever and the heater core is blocked off. Then when you're using a mix you just turn it back on and it's stock at that point.

You mean like this? Haha 20 bucks worth of parts.
etyguhyp.jpg

beqa8umy.jpg
 

dodge dude94

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why would you want it to only be switchable from under the hood? older trucks with a/c came with a heater control valve that would block coolant from flowing through the heater core when the a/c is on.

just hook a hose to it and you should find out if it is leaking.
Because the cable actuated valves can seize up...I have to operate the valve from under the hood on my 76 anyway. lol
You mean like this? Haha 20 bucks worth of parts.
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beqa8umy.jpg

EXACTLY.
 

crazzywolfie

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that is pretty redneck
Because the cable actuated valves can seize up...I have to operate the valve from under the hood on my 76 anyway. lol
that is why i also suggested getting the heater control off a 93 and vacuum control solenoid. some time between 76 and 93 they started using a vacuum controlled heater control valve. when no vacuum is there is stays open but when vacuum is applied it closes.
 

crazzywolfie

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because it don't look like it belongs and you used stuff you would find at a hardware store.

you could get a vacuum controlled valve pretty cheap(rockauto has one for $9). i don't know how much a vacuum solenoid is but you could most likely get one at a junkyard for almost nothing since almost any vehicle should have at least one.
 
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