My "new" ram 2500!

05ram4x4 · Apr 5, 2014

After I lost my 05 in an accident two months ago, I finally got another truck. I've always loved 2nd gens. Also, I've always wanted a 3/4 ton truck.

It is a 2002 Ram 2500! 5.9 Magnum 4x4

She has a little over 77.5k miles on her. Great shape!

A few issues to deal with, but that's why I'm here!

A puddle on the passenger side floor along with my dome and cargo lights not working at all. Ill do separate posts if I don't find answers.

S2kiHemi · Apr 5, 2014

Congrats!

Wolfhound · Apr 5, 2014

Awesome man glad to hear!

BBartow · Apr 5, 2014

Damn only 77.5K nice find.

WhiteExpress · Apr 6, 2014

That's a nice looking truck!

First piece of advice, take off the inner door panels and flush everything out of the bottom. Make sure the little plastic drains are working. 2G door bottoms LOVE to rust out. Judging by the back bumper, rust might be an issue!

The 3rd brake light on 2Gs loves to leak, killing the bulbs and leaking in along all sorts of odd paths. I'd get a nice LED 3rd brake light, and run a THIN bead of silicone around it when you install it. One issue solved.

Wet passenger floor pan is very likely a leaking heater core. It's a LOT of work, but none of it is hard. Did this job on my Dad's '98 not too long ago.

Before you jump to the heater core, the other thing to check is the drain for the condenser. There is a rubber nipple below the truck, passenger side on the firewall. They can get plugged up and not flow like they should.

Good luck!

05ram4x4 · Apr 6, 2014

Thanks guys! I've since taken off the brush guard and put on a back rack.

But anyway, I will take a look inside of the doors. The rear bumper is the worst part of the truck, honestly.

I will definitely seal up the third brake light. I know how they can leak.

I don't smell any coolant where the floor is wet, so I think it's just a water leak somewhere. I'm not 100% sure WHERE it's leaking from, but I will try to find out. Any certain places to look? I know it was mentions to check the condenser (evaporator*) drain. So, I will stick something in there and see if it's clogged. If not, any other places to check? I will do a water test eventually.

I have barely any VISIBLE rust on my rear quarters, but I do have a couple of tiny bubbles starting to show. What should I do about those? And what can I do to prevent the inevitable rust these trucks get?

I appreciate all the help!

WhiteExpress · Apr 6, 2014

05ram4x4 said:
I have barely any VISIBLE rust on my rear quarters, but I do have a couple of tiny bubbles starting to show. What should I do about those? And what can I do to prevent the inevitable rust these trucks get?

Depends on what you want for the truck. if you plan to keep it and want to have it look nice n new, you'll have to take it to a body shop and have em cut n weld. the fenders rust from the inside out.

If you're just barely seeing it, they *MIGHT* be able to get at it and save it.
But I wouldn't get my hopes up.

05ram4x4 · Apr 6, 2014

I know a guy that could work with me on it hopefully. I'd love to make this truck really nice and keep it as long as I can.

leadrofthepak · Apr 6, 2014

Unfortunately once there is a hint of rust, unless you cut and weld there is no long term life for those panels. We can try to extend the life of the panels but the inevitable is well... inevitable. I have never seen any panel on any car rust repaired that never had rust again.

05ram4x4 · Apr 7, 2014

Well, Ill have to see what I can do.

dodge dude94 · Apr 7, 2014

WhiteExpress said:
That's a nice looking truck!

First piece of advice, take off the inner door panels and flush everything out of the bottom. Make sure the little plastic drains are working. 2G door bottoms LOVE to rust out. Judging by the back bumper, rust might be an issue!

The 3rd brake light on 2Gs loves to leak, killing the bulbs and leaking in along all sorts of odd paths. I'd get a nice LED 3rd brake light, and run a THIN bead of silicone around it when you install it. One issue solved.

Wet passenger floor pan is very likely a leaking heater core. It's a LOT of work, but none of it is hard. Did this job on my Dad's '98 not too long ago.

Before you jump to the heater core, the other thing to check is the drain for the condenser. There is a rubber nipple below the truck, passenger side on the firewall. They can get plugged up and not flow like they should.

Good luck!

^This guy knows what's up.

nitto · Apr 15, 2014

very nice find low milage, and awesome color, has a lot of potential

05ram4x4 · Apr 15, 2014

Thank you! I did a tune up on it this past weekend. Plugs, wires, cap/rotor and oil. I need to do my plenum gasket now. yay.

I'm going to freshen up my brush guard, and put it back on. But I need to find a way to get the bolts in the frame like they were. I will have to buy all new bolts, but 4 of them were welded into plates, so they sit inside the frame, and can't spin. Any ideas how to do that with new bolts?

dodge dude94 · Apr 15, 2014

Why not just grab a helper and use a wrench on the back side to hold the bolts?

05ram4x4 · Apr 15, 2014

They are INSIDE the frame. There's absolutely no way to use a wrench in there. Ill just see if I can order the hardware from Westin.

dodge dude94 · Apr 15, 2014

Uhhh. okay.
Pictures? That sounds effed up.

leadrofthepak · Apr 15, 2014

Kinda like the shock bolts that have the wings on them so they only spin until they wedge themselves against something. Not a bad idea unless you live were rust grows like wild fire... then it becomes a horrible idea :Rant:

05ram4x4 · Apr 15, 2014

It's exactly that! But instead of a "flag", it's two bolts in one piece of metal. Welded in. SO neither can spin.

dodge dude94 · Apr 15, 2014

So, no nuts?

05ram4x4 · Apr 15, 2014

No there are nuts. The two bolts are fed through a hole barely big enough to fit my hand in, then dropped into their holes. Then the bracket, and nuts. Make sense?

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My "new" ram 2500!

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