New 1997 Ram 2500 owner needs advice, please help

Hello,

I am brand new to the forums, thank you so much for taking the time to read this. I've been pouring over these forums trying to find answers and there seems to be lots of info, but nothing definitively pointing me in a direction and I could use some help from you fine folks who know more than me.

I just bought a 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 cummins 4x4, manual, long bed, quad cab (or whatever they call it for the extra crew seats in back). It has 130k miles on it and its in pretty amazing condition (no rust!), however, it definitely needs new suspension.

My goal for this truck is partially to have it as a daily driver for work when I don't have to entertain clients in my car, but mostly, this is my bug-out vehicle for my family should we have a SHTF situation (whatever that may be) here in SoCal. My wish is to make the truck as reliable, robust and emp proof as possible and extend it's range without refueling, without getting to far away from mostly-stock.

The immediate need is to replace the suspension and I'm looking for thoughts and advice on what i'm being told by the local ORW shop experts as to what equipment to use in my upgrading and what's really necessary. Here's what they're suggesting:

Carli Ram leveling kit - Multi rate coil springs, bilstein 5100 shocks (front/rear) w/adjustable SS sway bar end links. (What is the benefit to leveling? I'm lost on this!)

Fabtech Adjustable Traction bar (FTS93002)

Synergy Heavy Duty Steering kit - There's quite a bit of bump/grind/play/noise in the front end of the truck.

Fox 2.0 performance series Steering stabilizer

New sway bar end links and bushings

I just installed a stainless steel 4" exhaust from the turbo back, eliminating the cat. converter, which I can do because pre 1998 doesnt needs smog check here in Ca.(yay!) I'm also planning on flushing all coolant, brake and transmission fluids since I don't have any maintenance records.

Some other things i'm hoping to do here in the near future:

1. Replace headlights/fog lights (they're completely frosted over at this point)
2. New lift pump (I hear that these fail all the time, but I want to put in another stock (or similar) mechanical one instead of one of the high flow electric ones)
3. Install an auxiliary fuel tank in the bed of the truck 50gallons - been looking at titan fuel tanks.
4. K&N air filter kit - not just the filter, but the whole kit that they make
5. ATS high flow air intake - on the fence about this one.
6. New carpet - its the only thing that really needed to be replaced in the cab, but considering putting down dynamat or something similar to reduce engine/road noise in the cab when I redo the carpet.
7. Over cab utility rack

And a partridge in a pear treeeeeeeeee. So... I know I just threw a wall of text at you fine folks, but if there's anything i've mentioned here that you have any thoughts on, I welcome them!

Thank you in advance for your kind consideration of my plea for assistance from those who know so much more than me.

JoshInParadise

You're a funny guy, "EMP proof" hilarious. There's more chance of you getting hit by lightning while being attacked by a shark on Crenshaw ave.
Get a vehicle that isn't computor controlled.

If you want EMP proof, go find a mechanically injected diesel, were talking 80s or older diesels. The common option is a Humvee, not a hummer, a Humvee. Up until the early 2000s most of the armies vehicles were considered 'EMP Proof', they had the bare minimum electronics for vehicle control, the little that was their was heavily shielded. Humvees don't have keys, they have switches that simply turn on power to electrical components and a momentary contact for the starter. Once you start them, you can basically run them without an alternator or batteries. Thats not true anymore, they have heavily computer controlled vehicles, but its all 'EMP hardened'

I'm gonna kind of geek out here, but thats only because I love vehicle electrical systems.

The first thing you have to consider is how far you are from a likely target. Second, no EMP from another country will detonate below 100KM, its much more effective to detonate them a few hundred thousand kilometers out. Simple electrical devices are pretty immune, motors larger than a finger are basically immune, batteries won't be damaged, relays, bulbs and other passive electronics wont be harmed either.

The things that will be damaged are active components like Diodes, transistors and anything micro.

The first thing to do is make sure everything is properly grounded to a common point. Usually the vehicle's frame, it must be every single body panel. You'll also want to make sure that the casing of every control module is properly grounded. Second, any antenna must be removed or properly isolated with transient suppression devices. Amature radio equipment is sensitive to lighting strikes, so thats a good place to get antenna protection.

As far as the computers are concerned, you'll want to get fast transient voltage suppression devices. You'll want quite a few as you'll have to put them across battery terminals as well as across power lines on control modules. I'm talking about quite a few MOVs and TVS Diodes. Then you'll want to wrap as much of the main wiring harnesses in copper or aluminum shielding and bond it to the frame/body at multiple places.

Its not impossible, just a lot of work.

1. Headlights: projector retrofit is best possible performance and great bulb longevity but with higher cost.
2. Idk what to talk you about lift pump
3. Big aux fuel tank is a good idea. Not a lot to those so if you found one you like, go for it
4. Skip the k&n if it's an oiled filter. Dry filter only for turbo systems and there's better brands out there
5. Better air under high boost levels bit unless you're building the engine up a bit I'd save the money
6. LMC sells direct replacement carpet i do believe and dynamat would for sure be a good upgrade with that
7. Find Nightmares thread in the members section. He had/has a similar thing going on with his though i forget the specifics.

As for your suspension build:
Leveling kit is unneeded unless you want slightly more clearance for larger tires and don't want to do a full lift. And even then, I'd recommend HellBentSteel. Sounds like a shop is just trying to make money. HBS offers the strongest level you can get and also one of the cheapest, they sell the upgraded steering brace or for that DodgeOffroad sells a better one as well. Bilsteins are great shocks, for just a level adjustable sway bar links aren't important, skip the fox stabilizer the factory is MORE than adequate. +1 to adjustable track bar

Thank you very much for your input.

Regrettably, I mentioned the EMP thing as an afterthought/joke, but that's what everyone except DaPepper keyed in on. lol... my fault!

Thank you DaPepper! I am buying the dodgeoffroad steering kit and the HBS track bar instead of synergy/fabtech. Great suggestions!

Thanks again to all who replied.

Josh

A 12v cummins is fully mechanical and requires no electronics to run. 1996+ has a compooper on the transmission. Thankfully you have a manual.

EMP? Zip tie the Fuel shut of solenoid up, push start the truck and it will Run.



KNs are trash, Stock air box is more than adequate for ~350hp and is a good quality filter. If you want good cold air intake I suggest the 7 layer AFE, it filters better than stock
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afe-75-10072/overview/year/1994/make/dodge/model/ram-2500


Also that ATS intake plenum will accomplish nothing, biggest waste of money unless your truck is one of the rare ones with an EGR.

This is how you get the check engine light off If you delete the EGR (I STRONGLY RECOMMEND REMOVING IT)
http://i52.tinypic.com/14o8uwg.jpg



I suggest using NAPA ultra premium suspension components, they last much longer than the heim joints on the synegy kit. Plus life time warranty, Go with the 98-99HD setup

alanack6795 said:

A 12v cummins is fully mechanical and requires no electronics to run. 1996+ has a compooper on the transmission. Thankfully you have a manual.

EMP? Zip tie the Fuel shut of solenoid up, push start the truck and it will Run.



KNs are trash, Stock air box is more than adequate for ~350hp and is a good quality filter. If you want good cold air intake I suggest the 7 layer AFE, it filters better than stock
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afe-75-10072/overview/year/1994/make/dodge/model/ram-2500


Also that ATS intake plenum will accomplish nothing, biggest waste of money unless your truck is one of the rare ones with an EGR.

This is how you get the check engine light off If you delete the EGR (I STRONGLY RECOMMEND REMOVING IT)
http://i52.tinypic.com/14o8uwg.jpg



I suggest using NAPA ultra premium suspension components, they last much longer than the heim joints on the synegy kit. Plus life time warranty, Go with the 98-99HD setup

Click to expand...

I'm not sure about the pre95 Cummins, but the 95+ use a computer controlled solenoid injection pump. Its true that the engine can run basically without the Dodge PCM or Cummins ECU, but the injection pump computer is required.

dudeman2009 said:

I'm not sure about the pre95 Cummins, but the 95+ use a computer controlled solenoid injection pump. Its true that the engine can run basically without the Dodge PCM or Cummins ECU, but the injection pump computer is required.

Click to expand...

The electronic VPP 44 did not come out until 1998.5.

1989-1993 used the VE pump
1994-1998 used the P7100

Both are fully mechanical and do not use any electronics to run. Just an electronic solenoid to lift a lever to the "Run" position. This can be replaced by a choke style cable or zip tie if needed.

alanack6795 said:

The electronic VPP 44 did not come out until 1998.5.

1989-1993 used the VE pump
1994-1998 used the P7100

Both are fully mechanical and do not use any electronics to run. Just an electronic solenoid to lift a lever to the "Run" position. This can be replaced by a choke style cable or zip tie if needed.

Click to expand...

They are right when they say you learn something new everyday. I though the VP44 was used since 95/96. Glad to know the truth, thanks.

This one is worth a bump. Interesting info.