one step closer

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rod7515

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Ram Year
1998
Engine
5.2
The 98 1500 Sport I bought in January got one step closer to being able to drive although I still have many steps to go before that can happen.
I replaced every brake line/tube and hose, calipers and wheel cylinders, and master cylinder. Bled the system last night then finally took it out for its first drive. I only went 4 miles since I dont have it registered yet but I found the trans shifted great, truck drove very nice. Brakes worked great and all lights in dash stayed off.
SO now I have to decide what/where to repair next. Heres what I know needs repair at this point.
1. I want to remove the aftermarket theft system that appears to have been installed by a circuit city.
2. I need to remove and replace the heater core.
3. I need to replace the Rear (back off motor) freeze out plugs.
4. I need to replace the plenum gasket.

I think my next step will be the heater core and anti theft system removed while dash is out. Once thats done then remove engine and replace ALL freeze out plugs, and do plenum gasket at that time. Re install engine and enjoy truck for hopefully many years!
Im sure there will be some other things along the way but thats my thoughts at this time.

Thanks for reading and feel free to offer comments
Rod
 

DodgeTx

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Location
SEGUIN
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L Cummins, 5.2l v8
Rod, seems like a nice list, glad you were able to have your test drive!

Bet it drove great!

If I was you I would handle the Freeze plugs, and Heater core first, or at least the freeze plugs, then proceed with plenum, and finally anti theft (unless it prohibits operation).

You wouldnt want it street ready and registered only to have it overheat due to leaky freeze plug or heatercore.

Best of luck and we'll be hear to offer word of encouragement and help if needed
 

Max78

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Location
AZ
Ram Year
1998
Engine
Magnum 5.9
I opted to pull the engine to replace ALL the freeze plugs when I had to do my rear freeze plugs. We had it done in less than a full day and seriously doubt it was any slower than pulling the trans, these things are so easy to work on.

I would recommend you get a good brass expansion plug set and just replace them all. I got the SEALED POWER 3818010 set and it came with all plugs for the lower block, but did NOT come with new plugs for the heads.

I used Permatex Form-A-Gasket when installing mine.
 

dapepper9

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Iowa/Nebraska Border
Ram Year
2001
Engine
5.9L V8
Unless you're comfortable with the wiring work i would do everything but the anti-theft. A lot of those systems can be hard to find a diagram for or hard to figure out if you're not all too familiar with electrical. Like myself, not so much. I have enough skill to find/fix broken wires that are easy to get to or to wire in things like lights with their own circuit but that's about it
 

dudeman2009

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Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
The plenum is certainly the easiest to do next. However as Max said, it's much easier to do the rear freeze plugs by just pulling the engine and replacing them all. It'll also make doing the plenum a breeze. I've made a couple posts about the easiest way to do the heater core that doesn't require disconnecting the A/C or removing the whole dash. I might compile it all into one writeup when I get home from work tomorrow, they have me across the state right now filling in at another auto center.

As for the security system, I wouldn't touch anything unless you can find an install manual or you have a decent understanding of electronics.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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rod7515

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Ram Year
1998
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5.2
Going to start on the work list tomorrow morning. Ive found that the coolant leak is not the rear freeze out plugs but its from the timing cover and running back along side the oil pan/block to the rear. Thats great news! Ive decided to start with the heater core. So the dash will get pulled out first. Hoping to remove the security system but first I need to see how it was installed once the dash is out. As Dapepper9 said removing may lead to other issues.
Once the heater core is done then I will tackle the timing cover, chain and gears. new water pump along with all new hoses. Then the intake before everything goes back together. I'll let you know how things go.
Rod
 
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rod7515

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1998
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5.2
Got at it early this morning. Started following and tracing wires for the security system first. Had to go into the door to repair the electric lock system. Added the lengths they had cut out, soldered and seal with shrink wrap every place. Then started on wires that went under dash. Found where they had cut the ignition switch cranking wire so I added length and repaired that one. Then I found that the system was tied into the radio. Had to rewire that and re route the antenna feed that was plugged into the system module then back to radio. They tapped into some ground feeds and power feeds as well so I just unsoldered their work and retaped those areas. After each change I would start the truck and check locks, windows, startup, lights and turnsignals. I think I got it all back to what was factory! Here is the wiring mess that was removed:
IMAG1348.jpg

After that was done I moved onto the heater core. That went very smooth and I can cross that off the list.
Tomorrow I hope to find time to replace the broken shifter lever with OD button, then start on the timing chain and gears and replace the plenum gaskets. I doubt I will get it completed before the wife finds something else for me to do. Then the only thing I think I will have left will be to charge A/C, replace all hoses. Then top it all off with a good cleaning including clay bar and compounding then a good wax job.
Sounds easy! lol
Rod
 

dudeman2009

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2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
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Magnum 360
For the shift lever, its an easy replacement, most of the time will be spent removing the plastic surround without breaking it :roflsquared:

Depending on whats wrong with it, its just a tiny push button and two wires that go to a connector on the underside of the steering column somewhere. When I got my truck the plastic handle was snapped off and it was a metal rod with some ugly looking autozone carbon fiber looking knob just dropped on the end.

Just look for where the lever meets the assembly, find the hinge pin and tap it out with a punch and hammer, you can replace the whole handle in about 20 minutes.
 
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rod7515

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1998
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5.2
Was going to do it today and I crawled on my back to take the plastic shroud off. Typical Chrysler dumb ****, the 2 torx heads screws are about 2 1/2" into the plastic cover and all I had with me was a T20 socket and it doesnt fit so Tomorrrow I need to bring my screw driver T20 with me to take it apart. The bad thing about this work is I am doing it at my 2nd garage and I dont have my tools there so I have to fill a tool box and go back and forth. I never seem to bring the right stuff!
Rod
 
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rod7515

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Update, Got the shifter replaced no issues there. So this weekend I started on the motor. Removed timing cover and replaced the chain and gears with a double roller. Then removed the intake and replaced the plenum gaskets. Cleaned the throttle body and replaced the gasket. I didnt re install the timing cover yet but started it up and found that I still have a miss. I noticed while the plenum was off that the #8 injector looked like it has not been firing. The bottom was kinda dirty rusty looking. I did a quick spray with cleaner on the bottom but never thought to check it for firing. Once the truck was running I went out and pulled the injector wire from #8 and no change but it was 1:00 AM in the morning so I shut everything off and went to bed! Guess next move will be to check for firing signal with noid. Are injector failure normal on these trucks? What is a cost of an injector? I will probably get one from napa tomorrow if needed.
Thanks Rod
 
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rod7515

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5.2
Just went down and threw a noid on the injector lead. I have signal so I guess I should go get an injector. I will say this. I am starting and running without the balancer on so maybe I will wait until I get everything back together to make sure its just not a balance issue. I wont get that done until tomorrow night unless the wife allows me to work on it on mothers day and I dont think thats going to happen!
Rod
 

dapepper9

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Make sure balancer is back on or you can cause permanent damage to the internals. As for injector, don't fall for that 4 hole crap and just replace with a reman piece.
 
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rod7515

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Put everything back together last night, started it up and filled with coolant. Still has a slight miss at idle but goes away once in higher rpms. Only drove it a 1/2 mile before i took it back. The miss seems to be #8. Thats the injector that looked unfired and unsprayed when i had intake off and cleaning gasket off. As i said earlier i have power to injector and i can hear solenoid clicking on and off while running listening with screwdriver pushed against it. I also have spark to that cyl if i remove the plug wire while running. So i guess im replacing that injector. Napa had one so thats a job for later tonight or thursday depending free time. Any other ideas that im missing? Compression was 145 and cyl leakage was around 20%.
Thanks Rod
 
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rod7515

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Update on truck, Went down tonight and replaced the #8 injector with a new one. The one I removed had all kinds of garbage blocking fuel flow. Truck now runs great! I only drove it about 1 1/2 mile tonight but it was super. Feels very strong and smooth as can be. I will be getting Insurance and tags later this week so I can drive it legally! I still need to change oil and replace trans filter and fluid. (trans shifts great) Was wondering what oil and weight you recommend for an engine with 180K miles on it. It carries 40 PSI with the old oil now.
I want to thank everyone for the support and suggestions while helping me get this truck up and running. With new tires, all new brake system, pads, shoes, cylinders, lines, calipers, heater core, timing chain/gears, plenum gaskets and injector, All hoses and belts, fluids and other misc I am guessing I have about $4k wrapped up. I think thats not bad for a truck that has absolutely no rust! It will now be garage kept and should get about 2500 miles a year so it should last a long long time.
Again thanks for all the help.
Rod
 

dudeman2009

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Ram Year
2001 1500 Sport with enough electrical modifications to make my brain hurt
Engine
Magnum 360
Just run whatever flavor of 5W-30 you feel like putting in. There is no reason to use anything other than that unless you live in an extreme location.
 
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