Plenum gasket

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Tryin

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Does anyone know how long a plenum gasket lasts when it is replaced when using the original steel plenum plate?


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bassslayer25

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Does anyone know how long a plenum gasket lasts when it is replaced when using the original steel plenum plate?


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It all depends. Sometimes they last a long time others they dont. Best bet is to get felpro gasket.
 
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Tryin

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Does felpro last longer?

The reason why I'm asking is, I'll probably replace the plenum gasket, but I'm not sure I want to spring for the aluminum plate. So, if a felpro gasket gets the job done for say 10-15K miles, that would be the best option for me as my truck isn't my daily driver.


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dudeman2009

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As far as i've researched the problem stemmed from the gasket becoming damaged due to incorrect tolerances. The thicker gasket shouldn't have a problem.
 

mazzov

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What problems are you experiencing? Any codes? I am starting to think I may be having the same issue.
 

bassslayer25

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Main problems will be lack of power, pinging/ticking under acceleration, increased oil consumption.
 

dapepper9

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Fouling of cyl 8 plug....

Updated mopar gasket or felpro and shave the bolts 2-3 threads. 1 theory is that the bolts are too long. These 2 things have shown to be reliable
 
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Tryin

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Thanks for the input. I get an occasional #8 misfire, not sure if it is fouling, but most likely.

Do the bolts really bottom out? I find it hard to believe that this would be over looked by engineers. Believe me, I know that's a whole other discussion.


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David H

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I just did my 98 5.9 with the original pan and checked the pan bolts for bottoming. I don't believe they were but it was close. I shaved .040 or so off of each just for good measure.
 

dapepper9

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My personal belief is no. However, a nut to fit is $0.11 that you can protect the threads with while you shave 3 off. For the price, if it is true and they do bottom out, do you really wanna open it back up? I may not believe it's an issue but takes a few minutes more for basically free and is extra security. My time is worth enough to me that i don't want to open it back up lol
 
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I got ya dapepper, and feel the same way. I'll probably change the gasket this summer and plan on shaving the bolts. I certainly don't want to open it back up. That's why I'm questioning the longevity of a gasket without an aluminum plate.


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Rustycowl69

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stupid question: why not just add a washer under the bolt head, or deepen the bolt holes?
 

dapepper9

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Well for one the trying to deepen the bolt holes is way more difficult and involved than most can do. Also can destroy your intake manifold leaving the truck un-drivable
 

Rustycowl69

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it doesn't sound that hard to do, but I've never done it, so I'll go along with your assessment on that. But you never addressed the washer under the bolt head idea, why would that not work?
 
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David H

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The end of the bolts in my truck were similar to this...
bolt_zps3umiw385.jpg
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No threads on the last 3/16" so grinding of a little didn't harm any threads. Too easy.
 
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How would you increase the hole depth....drill and heli-coil? Cheaper to shave the bolts.


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dapepper9

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it doesn't sound that hard to do, but I've never done it, so I'll go along with your assessment on that. But you never addressed the washer under the bolt head idea, why would that not work?

They already have washers. I would never suggest stacking washers. But that's me
 

gustheram

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I'm not sure I want to spring for the aluminum plate.

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I actually have one of the aluminum plates I bought a few years ago to put on my '95 before I sold it. I never got around to putting it on so if you're interested PM me and we can work something out.
 

dudeman2009

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it doesn't sound that hard to do, but I've never done it, so I'll go along with your assessment on that. But you never addressed the washer under the bolt head idea, why would that not work?

Stacking washers is never a good idea, ever. Back when I was in school for diesel mechanics they brought in two speakers relating to this topic. The first guy was a bolt engineer, all he does for a living is design and test bolts. The second was a washer and gasket guy, same deal there.

To condense the combined four hour lecture, putting a washer on a washer will cause bolt stress and eventual snapping of the head off the bolt. Another potential cause is unlevel wear into the surface between the washer and part being bolted down, this results in bolt head stress and eventual failure of the bolt.

Washers are sided, they should only be used in one direction, bolts should never be shaved, however in a pinch it can work. More important than that, you should never grind bolts above grade 5 or you ruin their clamping ability.

When installing bolts, you should always lube them. For young guys wiping it along the outside of your nose is sufficient, or you can wipe an oily hand or rag on the threads.

Torque wrenches are only accurate when moving, once they stop they do not measure accurate at all. When tightening bolts in critical applications, you should take all bolts to 60% spec then go back around to 100% spec on tightening torque.


You can use two washers, but it is never a good idea. The effects listed are usually less in automotive becuase of the lesser torque specs and much shorter lifespan, however bolt failure can occur in as soon as 80K miles if multiple washers are used in a static environment. In a dynamic envirnmet bolt failure can occur in less than 20K miles.
 
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Tryin

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I disagree with always lubing hardware. Lube changes torque. When in A&P school, my instructor had worked for lycoming engines and told a story of a factory assembler decided to use lube on connecting rod cap bolts because they were easier to put together. Consequently the torque changed causing over torquing and eventually engine failure. You can't pull a plane over to the side of the road.


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