7" lift on 98 ram sport will this work...

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Johnn123

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http://www.ramforum.com/f58/lift_basics_2nd_gen_4x4_rams-25153/

First I'd to apologize for not responding to messages. I don't hang around on forums much and threads like this are the reason.

You can't turn 6 into 9. So you can't make 3 inch lift parts into a functioning 7 inch lift.

I'm sure you can cowbilly one up but trying to enjoy driving it or using it off roading would be frustrating at best, dangerous at worse. The old thread link above discusses lifts up to 5 inches, and that's about the limit for the few cookie cutter lifts you can find for 2nd gens.

Magical engineering things happen after 5 inches of lift because of the way a stock Ram suspension/drivetrain is built. I use the turn magical sardonically here because some of you guys think you can thwart the pinheads, wizards and experienced shade tree wrenches by cobbling up something simply to impress your buds or some redneck chick. Don't fret. Once your magical mass of incorrect parts starts to destroy other components in your suspension like popcorn you'll trade or swap for another brand. The Gods help whoever you bless with your mechanical mayhem.

Done correctly with the right matched components, a 7 inch lifted ram is a thing of beauty to watch and drive. It rides like a luxo, handles almost Porsche like with the right tire rim combo, scrambles through mud like an alligator and cruises over rocks like a Tarantula. Drive shafts don't bind, tires NEVER touch sheet metal. The limiting factor is your differentials on a 1500. A D-44/9.25 combo was never meant to take the weight of a 37" or up tire. I don't care that you run them. The pinheads didn't build them that way...that's why they made 2500 and 3500 trucks with bigger diffs.

Lastly, only a couple of true believers in 2nd gens still build proper 7 inch long arm lifts. One is Danny at Dodge Offroad. He's been building big Rams before some of you were born. Yeah his lifts aren't cheap...but lifting a ram 7 inches the right way never was.

To the OP: make it easy on yourself...install a 5 inch lift with the correct parts, put 35's on, and don't ***** when your transmission shells or your already crappy mileage goes to complete shyte. If you don't woo the redneck chick you can spend the money you'll save on some decent gears.

Good luck!

What an amazingly awesome post! :favorites13:
 
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98sportjm

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So going by what you guys think those 2-3" leveling kits are unsafe and shouldnt possibly work on a stock ram because you're adding 2-3inches strech to the stock system but everyone does it lol because what im doing is nothing more then adding a leveing kit pretty much after swapping everything out with 3inch parts
 

ramburger

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you can add the spacers on any arms man dont sweat it..
 

Merc225hp

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Be like everyone else then help is done here. And no use the god dam right parts for the lift, it's bs lifts that give us a bad rep in the world.

If you go look at skyjacker web site will will find a warning not to use spaces with there springs it's un safe and bs work.
 

Johnn123

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So going by what you guys think those 2-3" leveling kits are unsafe and shouldnt possibly work on a stock ram because you're adding 2-3inches strech to the stock system but everyone does it lol because what im doing is nothing more then adding a leveing kit pretty much after swapping everything out with 3inch parts

WHAT PART OF LIFTED IS DIFFERENT THAN STOCK IS NOT BEING UNDERSTOOD?????? I just don't understand, its been stated multiple times its different and you still think its the same?

OK I have a much better idea for you. Install your 3" suspension lift, DO NOT INSTALL SPACERS AFTER. Buy a 3" body lift after and install that. Will cost you a little more, be a lot safer and will allow you to install your 35" tires.
 

dodge dude94

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http://www.ramforum.com/f58/lift_basics_2nd_gen_4x4_rams-25153/

First I'd to apologize for not responding to messages. I don't hang around on forums much and threads like this are the reason.

You can't turn 6 into 9. So you can't make 3 inch lift parts into a functioning 7 inch lift.

I'm sure you can cowbilly one up but trying to enjoy driving it or using it off roading would be frustrating at best, dangerous at worse. The old thread link above discusses lifts up to 5 inches, and that's about the limit for the few cookie cutter lifts you can find for 2nd gens.

Magical engineering things happen after 5 inches of lift because of the way a stock Ram suspension/drivetrain is built. I use the turn magical sardonically here because some of you guys think you can thwart the pinheads, wizards and experienced shade tree wrenches by cobbling up something simply to impress your buds or some redneck chick. Don't fret. Once your magical mass of incorrect parts starts to destroy other components in your suspension like popcorn you'll trade or swap for another brand. The Gods help whoever you bless with your mechanical mayhem.

Done correctly with the right matched components, a 7 inch lifted ram is a thing of beauty to watch and drive. It rides like a luxo, handles almost Porsche like with the right tire rim combo, scrambles through mud like an alligator and cruises over rocks like a Tarantula. Drive shafts don't bind, tires NEVER touch sheet metal. The limiting factor is your differentials on a 1500. A D-44/9.25 combo was never meant to take the weight of a 37" or up tire. I don't care that you run them. The pinheads didn't build them that way...that's why they made 2500 and 3500 trucks with bigger diffs.

Lastly, only a couple of true believers in 2nd gens still build proper 7 inch long arm lifts. One is Danny at Dodge Offroad. He's been building big Rams before some of you were born. Yeah his lifts aren't cheap...but lifting a ram 7 inches the right way never was.

To the OP: make it easy on yourself...install a 5 inch lift with the correct parts, put 35's on, and don't ***** when your transmission shells or your already crappy mileage goes to complete shyte. If you don't woo the redneck chick you can spend the money you'll save on some decent gears.

Good luck!
:favorites13::favorites13:
Gotta love these people, eh?
what you failed to realize is that he was combining a 2" body lift into the equation did you read it? so none of your information was helping him out.

anyways...

also his 9.25 rear IS infact adequate for 37" tires:baby:
He's also wanting to use coil spacers on top of lift springs....

And yeah, it's alright til you bust a clip and your axle and tire goes rolling down the interstate. **** that C-Clip axle ********! :flipthebird:

Also, **** half ton brakes! :flipthebird::flipthebird:
WHAT PART OF LIFTED IS DIFFERENT THAN STOCK IS NOT BEING UNDERSTOOD?????? I just don't understand, its been stated multiple times its different and you still think its the same?

OK I have a much better idea for you. Install your 3" suspension lift, DO NOT INSTALL SPACERS AFTER. Buy a 3" body lift after and install that. Will cost you a little more, be a lot safer and will allow you to install your 35" tires.
What he said. ^^^ :word:


Y'all mofuggas need Jeezuz
 

ramburger

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:favorites13::favorites13:
Gotta love these people, eh?

He's also wanting to use coil spacers on top of lift springs....

And yeah, it's alright til you bust a clip and your axle and tire goes rolling down the interstate. **** that C-Clip axle ********! :flipthebird:

Also, **** half ton brakes! :flipthebird::flipthebird:

What he said. ^^^ :word:

just because its not full floating doesnt mean its not pretty much still a beafy axle and could most definately take abuse
dual piston calipers do just fine as well along with a good break pad
 
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98sportjm

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Lol so angry, 5" lift ca's are only a 1/4" longer than 3" ca's. Maybe ill just cut them in half and asd 1/4 to make you happy!! :)
 

Merc225hp

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Lol dual piston caliper are 2001 and up only and without lots of work do not fit the older trucks. Cut extend and weld .... redneck hinky bs crap on the road. You might want to check those ca length again. Not having the proper ca it can make it hard to alignment the front end as the adjustment might be at its limite.
 

ramburger

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Lol dual piston caliper are 2001 and up only and without lots of work do not fit the older trucks. .

ok. great. well i felt i was being targeted so just defending my beast thasall:sleepy10:
 
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98sportjm

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Lol you think those after market ones are made in one solid piece champ? They are also redneck welded together. I feel like maybe your just mad you spent 1400$ on your lift when u can do it for a few hundred with alil work. I worked in a weld shop i can weld and slipping a tube sleeve over it welding it up wont be any weaker then whats there now. You know the ca's lengths for the lifts right before you go telling me to recheck my ****
 

Johnn123

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Lol you think those after market ones are made in one solid piece champ? They are also redneck welded together. I feel like maybe your just mad you spent 1400$ on your lift when u can do it for a few hundred with alil work. I worked in a weld shop i can weld and slipping a tube sleeve over it welding it up wont be any weaker then whats there now. You know the ca's lengths for the lifts right before you go telling me to recheck my ****

I have to ask, since you obviously know everything why did you bother to start a thread and ask?

This thread seriously is hurting my brain.
 

mitchbowers

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I sure as hell don't have that cash in my lift lol. Build away man u have it all figured out.
some people can't be helped, anyone who looks at your build knows to listen to what you have to say haha

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dodge dude94

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Lol you think those after market ones are made in one solid piece champ? They are also redneck welded together. I feel like maybe your just mad you spent 1400$ on your lift when u can do it for a few hundred with alil work. I worked in a weld shop i can weld and slipping a tube sleeve over it welding it up wont be any weaker then whats there now. You know the ca's lengths for the lifts right before you go telling me to recheck my ****

I sure as hell don't have that cash in my lift lol. Build away man u have it all figured out.

We got another WhiteKnuckle, Papa.....LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL
I wonder what institution he escaped from? DF maybe? :roflsquared:
 

Okiespaniel

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what you failed to realize is that he was combining a 2" body lift into the equation did you read it? so none of your information was helping him out.

anyways...

also his 9.25 rear IS infact adequate for 37" tires:baby:


I probably kept someone else from doing whatever it is he was about to do.

anyways....

Just so everyone knows this....the 9.25 rear end was originally designed and built in the mid 1970's as the replacement axle for the hotchkiss (and legendary) style 8:75. When this rear end was introduced, smog era muscle cars and trucks with their anemic horsepower and torque were the mainstay. The largest tire you could find in some specialty stores was the then new 33x12.5x15.

Mopars engineers never and I mean never meant to have this used for any true high performance/heavy duty application. The 9.25 uses a farily small pinion bearing set with a thin crush sleeve. The pinion shaft itself is about 15% smaller than the 8.75 it replaced, and not even close to a Dana.

Again Mopar never intended it to be used for Hd purposes. The result of high loading eventually breaks the crush sleeve, and as the clearances go away the bearings fail. It's not a matter of if but when. High loading forces don't always mean mucho engine torque. For those who wish to become more like the wizards, I recommend googling "unsprung weight" You will become more knowledgeable on sciencing out a proper drive train once you learn its effects.

For those of you hell bent on punishing yourselves, keep on trucking. Having a pinion bearing fail is a fascinating event, especially at speed. Granted, there's plenty of warning given with all the howling and roaring but it's hard to hear over those big mudders. If you will though, imagine those mudders becoming two large basket balls, bouncing your truck up and down untill it stops, sometimes on it's roof...or a in tree. Trees make great hoops. I've actually witnessed this 1st hand. At the worse, it locks up at a stop and flooring the vehicle to get it moving will turn your transmissions main drum into scrap metal. I've personally done this...:crazy:

Enough fun...lets talk about the Dana 44 in the front...on 2nd thought if you believe an 9.25 is adequate, there's no helping you there. Just remember, you can polish a ****, but it's still a ****.

And with that, I bid you all a fantastic August. Really, I have far better things to do than hang with folks who really know more than I. So I need to start reading again... Wizards school never closes.
 
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Merc225hp

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We are posting correct info and the safe way to lift a truck. those here are not into mickey mouse lifts that might kill someone. Lifted trucks already have a bad rep on the streets from people that do **** backyard homemade crap lifts. We up here have laws that if u lift a truck more than 4" it must get an inspection this is a good law as it keeps **** off the roads and people safe.
 
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mitchbowers

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We are posting correct info and the safe way to lift a truck. those here are not into mickey mouse lifts that might kill someone. Lifted trucks already have a bad rep on the streets from people that do **** backyard homemade crap lifts. We up here have laws that if u lift a truck more than 4" it must get an inspection this is a good law as it keeps **** off the roads and people safe.
Wish we had laws like that around here.but where I'm at,they don't even bother with any form of inspection.

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