Wow ain't seen you on here in FOREVER lol
Yeah I think I've mentioned before I don't hang out on forums much...I believe it's the quality of some of the posters that keeps me away...unless I can provide a humorous yet to the point answer.
Such a point might be made of the post following yours. While the point of simply unscrewing a nut from a stud (until something gets stripped) and bungee cording the swaybar to the frame has moot ( I do that). The part about ditching the swaybar isn't a great idea.
If it were, all your quality lift/suspension manufactures would not include extended sway links in their kits.
The swaybar is designed to keep your truck's body lean at a minimum when turning or making maneuvers at speed. This becomes more critical as you lift your truck and something called the roll center (similar to the center of gravity) changes drastically. The function of the links to transfer the weight of the truck from the outside of the turn to the inside of the turn to keep your truck as level as possible. So links must be the proper length to do this as quickly as possible. BTW, I explain this part a bit more in my lift basics for 2nd gen trucks thread.
Anyway....having driven my truck without the bar connected down I-17 from Sedona AZ to Phoenix in a 20 mph cross breeze is something I would not attempt again. The truck yawed and geed like a drunken sailor on a 3 day binge...and every passing semi was a moment of terror.
People that tell me their truck doesn't sway with out the front bar usually end up in the conversation complaining about their loose steering (really?) or I find they've used springs so stiff that while the truck doesn't lean it has other issues they can't figure out. Lastly, in this sue happy world, I'd hate for some slick investigator to find that I'd removed the bar...a piece the factory deemed necessary for safe on road operation.
Anyway...thanks for saying hi Mr pepper. Remember...less postin', more wrenchin'!
