Fixing Rust

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Magnum5.9

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I attached some pictures of my current rust issue. Rust is bubbling the paint and if it hit with a hammer, I could break of the rusty parts

My plan is to fix the rust (rust inhibitor) then bedlineer over it and roughly the bottom 10"s or so of the door/bottom of truck

My question to you guys is what is my best bet to stop the current rust before I put the bedlinner over???

I've read alot about chassis saver made by monsterliner (made by magnetic paints), is that a good option to go over my door rust?

I'm willing to spend $$$ to do it once and do it right so don't worry much about price when recommending!
 

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DodgeTx

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Not much experience on this, but I would say sand off as much as you can.
put some saver on it, then bedline it.

IF money is not an issue
you could go all out and just replace those body parts and door jambs :grd:, then bedline it
 
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Magnum5.9

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Not much experience on this, but I would say sand off as much as you can.
put some saver on it, then bedline it.

IF money is not an issue
you could go all out and just replace those body parts and door jambs :grd:, then bedline it

I looked into it and it's about $600 just in the door and rocker panels which is way out of the question :jawdrop:
 

DodgeTx

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dang thats a good bit there, not to mention the repaint.
 

Raindem

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The "best bet" to remove rust is to sand it all off before recoating. If there are heavily pitted areas I use a product called Pickle-X which will neutralize the rust in areas you can't get to with a sander or wire wheel.

However, if you can poke through those areas with a hammer like you said then the rust should be cut out and a patch welded in.
 

dapepper9

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Cut out what needs gone and use that as a template for your shape then hold it in place in the center and top and put a spot weld to hold it on. Then move out from that center tack alternating left side and right side put tacks all the way around with 1" between each. Once that is done start filling in the spaces and grind off the welds
 
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Magnum5.9

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Cut out what needs gone and use that as a template for your shape then hold it in place in the center and top and put a spot weld to hold it on. Then move out from that center tack alternating left side and right side put tacks all the way around with 1" between each. Once that is done start filling in the spaces and grind off the welds

I have access to a very small wire feed welder but I have limited welding skills and have never weled on anything small than exhaust pipe which came out crudy but somewhat strong :roflsquared:

Is this even something I should be considering doing or is it out of my realm?
 

Raindem

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You don't need a powerful welder. I have a small 110v MIG welder and it works fine for this type of repair. Make sure to get a good angle grinder. If your welds are as bad as mine you'll be doing a lot of grinding to clean it up. Practice on some scrap metal that is a similar gauge.

My welding & metal working skill level is quite low yet I'm able to generate decent patches. Since you'll be covering it with bed liner that probably works to your advantage as the finished surface won't have to be as smooth and level.
 
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Magnum5.9

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Would it be stupid/ignorant to sand off the lose rust, throw a product like chassis saver or por-15 on the rust then bedline over it? Just hate the idea of cutting my truck lol
 

Raindem

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Not at all. If it is light surface rust that would probably be OK. I suggested a patch (and someone else suggested a whole new panel) because in your original post you asked for the BEST way to get rid of the rust. But if you want cheap, quick, and easy instead then your plan should work (depending on the severity of the rust).
 

MagSport

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Would it be stupid/ignorant to sand off the lose rust, throw a product like chassis saver or por-15 on the rust then bedline over it? Just hate the idea of cutting my truck lol


If the rust is scaling or just surface, you can grind/sand it back to shiny metal and then paint. If it has degraded to the point of holes, patching or panel replacement will be necessary.
Example:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1431886744.213580.jpg
Paint bubbling can be fixed without patching.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1431886817.993707.jpg
That should be replaced.
 

dodge dude94

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If it's pitted, a grinder with a wirewheel will remove most of the loose stuff in the pits in my experience.
 
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Magnum5.9

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UPDATE:

Took a screw driver to the rust to see if I coukd get down to good metal and right as I got down to the decent metal the corner tip of the screw driver punctured the door(see picture).

If you hit it with the corner of the screw driver with light/normal force it will not bust through the rust spot.
 

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MagSport

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If it goes through with a little more than normal force you will probably have to patch it. It all depends on how much metal you have left after you've removed all of the rust.
 

Raindem

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The metal is severely weakened in that spot. If repaired just by grinding, filling, and painting it will look OK at first. The repair might last a year. It might last 5 years. But it will eventually fail. If you want a permanent repair that will last as long as the rest of the paint job, then I think it needs to be patched.
 

MagSport

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The metal is severely weakened in that spot. If repaired just by grinding, filling, and painting it will look OK at first. The repair might last a year. It might last 5 years. But it will eventually fail. If you want a permanent repair that will last as long as the rest of the paint job, then I think it needs to be patched.


Agreed
 
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