Dash...or...I promise I searched!

I have read many hundreds of posts, and am still not clear about something, so I'm asking for some info.

Ok, so I bought a 2001 Ram 1500 yesterday on the cheap, and I like it a lot. I already knew that the top dash panels and gauge bezels fail, and this one is no different...I have replacements on the way.

Now...I need to replace the heater core. I always thought that the dash problems were specific to the two pieces I mentioned above. But, the mechanic is worried that when he removes the dash to do the core, the whole thing could fail catastrophically. Not just the top, but the main dash assembly, such that you couldn't even put the truck back together.

Is this right? I thought it was just the top and gauge panel that failed. Is there really a significant possibility that the whole thing could crumble, leaving me with no dash at all? Does this actually happen? Isn't the main dash assembly made out of steel?

Am I missing something?

I'm going to be super sad if I bought this truck and did a bunch of work to it, only to find out that I can't fix the heat because the cure might be worse than the disease here.

Thanks guys...

There is a steel frame to the dash, its not just plastic, however his concern is somewhat justified, removing the whole dash could damage a couple pieces that would make it unsafe to drive after putting it back together.

Instead of removing the whole dash I suggest the alternate method of heater core replacement that involves only lifting and pulling the passenger side back while leaving the drivers side still resting on the kick panel stud.

Thanks for that. Folluw-up question:

If I were to buy this:

https://www.mymoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-instrument-panel-5ew19rc8af

And this:

Truck Parts and Truck Accessories

(both the top dash piece and the gauge bezel)...

Would that cover all of the plastic that is typically a problem? Is the top one in that link the 'sub dash' that people talk about when they talk about the radio mounts breaking, and heater controls breaking off in the dash etc?

I'm asking all this because I'm about to have the evaporator and heater core replaced in my new-to-me truck, and if an extra $500 gets me a solid dash that is past these problems, then it's worth it to me. Let me know if I'm on the right track. Thanks!

The top link is the full dash, the bottom link is the parts that crack the most often but doesn't replace the subframe and some parts that are plastic that are part of the main dash.

Unless the dash is cracked already and or starting to fall apart, I wouldn't worry about it. Mine was already cracked before I started the heater core, after I was done it didn't get much worse at all, just a couple cracks where I wasn't careful enough and forgot some things.

Largely, unless its already damaged, then don't worry about it. If it falls apart while he's doing the work, the order the dash, it shouldn't take long to deliver. Though replacing the dash is gonna cost about twice as much as the heater core replacement itself.

The short version of the procedure for replacing the heater core is as follows.

1. Chock the wheels
2. move the steering wheel to the lowest position
3. shift the truck to gear 1
4. remove the dash trim that runs around the instrument cluster and center vents by gently prying or pulling straight away from the main dash starting at one side or the other. (you'll have to maneuver the trim a little to get it around the steering column)
5. unbolt the cup holder or the alternate cover plate, temperature controls, airbag switch and disconnect the corresponding connectors.
6. above the trans tunnel on the floor unscrew the crash module cover plate, its held in by two screws, then unplug the crash module.
7. unbolt the steering column, there are four bolts underneath, I cant remember what has to be removed to get to it, but its pretty simple or i'd remember
8. unscrew the main dash assembly, there are screws along the windshield, on either side of the crash module by the trans tunnel.
9. remove the A pillar covers by firmly pulling away from the pillar starting at the top (you have to unscrew the passenger entry handle)
10. Remove the plastic kick panels on the outer sides of the truck near the floorboards
11. there are two large bolts on either side of the truck that the main dash rest on, loosen both sides but do not remove them.
12. attach a ratchet strap to the upper latch on an extended cab truck with suicide doors, or on a 2 door you'll have to get another ratchet strap or rope to tie down in the bed or frame rail on the driver's side and run across the roof towards the rear of the passengers door.
13. carefully lift the passenger side of the dash off the bolt by the kick panel until you are able to hook up the ratchet strap.
14. ratchet the dash back until you can reach behind it, you'll have to stop periodically to check to make sure nothing is caught and to unplug the passenger air bag.
15. there are three nuts/bolts in the engine bay that hold the HVAC housing in, remove these, there are pictures online
16. there are two nuts inside the dash on the right side near the door holding the HVAC housing to the cab frame
17. after loosening the HVAC housing you can pull the housing into the cab slightly to get more room. (you'll need to pull the A/C accumulator mounting bracket off and possibly open the plastic clamps for the liquid line so you can get enough movement on the HVAC housing. I didn't have to disconnect my A/C when I did my heater core.)
18. there is a little bracket with a single screw that holds down the pipes from the heater core and either one or two screws that hold an access panel for the top of the heater core.
19. The easiest way to remove it from here is to cut the pipes from the heater core with a hacksaw, a cutoff wheel will work but will make a mess of coolant.
20. after cutting the pipes push them through the firewall and slide the heater core up and out.
21. the new heater core will slide in and you can remove the cutoff pipes from the rubber heater lines in the engine bay with plenty of room.
22. now just reverse the steps being sure to start the truck and let it warm up after bolting in the HVAC housing and hooking up the heater lines but before doing anything else, then check for leaks, if its all good then finish putting it all back together.


It took me 4 hours the first time, but I've done it again since then and only took about 2 1/2 hours.

Thanks very much for that detailed info; I truly appreciate it.

BTW for people who read this, the full dash part listed above is incorrect; that one is for a Ram 1500 van. It's immaterial anyway, as they're all disco'd.

There is stock available for the light gray and "black" lower dash assemblies from the dealership. I hope you are sitting down when they tell you a price however.

jlbayes said:

There is stock available for the light gray and "black" lower dash assemblies from the dealership. I hope you are sitting down when they tell you a price however.

Click to expand...

Hello I’m new here ! I was reading this thread and saw you said there is stock available how do I get ahold of that stock I just need a dash frame so I can hook up all my things A.C. lights etc... I’m curious to know . Price isn’t s problem if it cost 1000 that’s fine but I can’t get anyone to help me at local dealships they say there’s no parts left... Can you Help ?

Mopar_Fire said:

Hello I’m new here ! I was reading this thread and saw you said there is stock available how do I get ahold of that stock I just need a dash frame so I can hook up all my things A.C. lights etc... I’m curious to know . Price isn’t s problem if it cost 1000 that’s fine but I can’t get anyone to help me at local dealships they say there’s no parts left... Can you Help ?

Click to expand...

I can get you the part number. I just need the last 8 of your vin.

jlbayes said:

I can get you the part number. I just need the last 8 of your vin.

Click to expand...

I am away from my trucks right now , but one is a 98 and one is a 99 I want to put the 99 dash in both of them . So how would I go about that since the 98 vin is gonna day 98 and the 99 says 99 ?

The vin is for the color you need/want. As the part numbers are different.

Is there anyway I could PM you that info just looking for standard black or gray it doesn’t matter to me paint can fix color . Let me know thanks

Just have to be patient and gentle. I removed mine and reinforced it with Fiberglas. Turn out great a durable. This is my 94 and I painted black.

Sadly 75% of my 98 is gone not much to salvage . My 99 has a better chance at being fiberglassed which I think I may just try .