5.2 performance mods.

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01rammer1500

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Hi all, i have a 2001 ram 1500 with the 318. And im ready to do some performance mods!
Ive been looking around on ebay at headers, and exhaust systems. Is the factory system really that restrictive? Would new headers help alot?
Another thing ive been looking at is a cold air intake. But the stock intake is already a cold air intake. So is a aftermarket one goin to be less restrictive?

Im pretty much just looking for bolt ons for now, but might go further into it in the future.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
 

ADudeOnSkis

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318/5.2 Magnum
Yes , all these things will help. But to what purpose? Your end goal will help greatly in your decision about upgrades. Are you racing you're truck on a drag strip? Are you mudding? Are you just looking for more power for powers sake? What you want to do with your truck will help us steer you in the right direction.

(An example in my case would be I don't care about house power, I care about versatility and stability so I put more into suspension and steering and not much into performance unless it actually boosts my mpg, not for the economy or green factor as much as the range).
 

Stegs

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1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
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5.2L 318 C.I.
best thing to do to a 5.2 liter (other than a good tune up)

GEARS!!...That little 318 does have some power, but new gears would be the best to take advantage of every last one of them


I went from 3.55 to 4.56 with a spicer limited slip locker

Made a night and day difference, it makes the 5.2 work way easier


I had 32 in tires on my truck when I did gears....I was sideways a lot (driving in rain with a locker is a handful)

what people mentioned above is great and I have done all that except for the 1.7 RR, but let me be the first in line to say save your money and get some 4.10s or 4.56 gears....trust me, you will love it

and then when you see a chevy

first you will :puke:

then you will :flipthebird:
 

Merc225hp

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Going with your bolt on plan.

Fix the plenum
Full tune up
New cat converter
New 02's
SCT tuner
1.77 RR's
Headers and true dual exhaust.
 

Stegs

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just out of curiosity, has anybody ever done a test on the factory valve train and the difference with 1.7 RR?

Just want to know what you really gain going with 1.7 RR
 

rammanriley20

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the factory air boxes are usually fine. aftermarket ones just look better. i would just run stock exhaust out the side in front of the rear wheel with the cat removed to get better flow. true duels are kinda spendy where as you could delete the cat and get a piece of angled exhaust tube for cheap. a tuner would help a lot too i think, im looking into getting one. and gearing makes a world of difference!
 

rowdyram

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As far as 1.7 RR go. I've had good luck with my sbf scorpions and are a lot cheaper than the sharps just my .02
 

Merc225hp

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When I install RR's I don't care very much about the added lift, its all about taking away the parasitic drag. I would also make sure they are adjustable RR's, I would not get a fixed RR just not worth it in my op.

99 and up take to the SCT tuner much better bigger bang for the buck.
 
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rowdyram

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I second what merc said the added lift is almost negated by the slower valve rate. Better in the real high revs but not going to be a noticeable difference in the lower end
 
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01rammer1500

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This is all new to me, so please forgive my lack of knowledge in the axle ratio field. So what's the difference in the two gearing setups mentioned above? Also, what's this going to change that makes the truck seem more powerful?
 

dodge dude94

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Going from 3.55 (stock) to 4.56 (performance/towing) will allow you to get moving faster as the ratio is shorter meaning it takes less input from the engine (transmission) to the axle to get the tires turning.

This means less top speed (whoop-de-freaking-do) and more low end grunt and acceleration.
 

tommyboi87

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I put a 4.10 in the rear and that with the tune shook the cobwebs out of my 318. Great acc., but it still falls on its face in the higher RPM range.
 

Yeret

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My truck used to have a 2 into 1 back into 2 2.5 inch setup with a bullet-style muffler and it ran fine. However, when the tailpipes started rotting off and got a plugged catalytic, I had a single 2.5 inch pipe with a Turbo Thrush installed. I wanted to go with a single 3-inch pipe instead, but I was on a super-tight budget. The new exhaust is more restrictive overall than the old one, but my truck has noticeably more low-end torque (in exchange for top-end power). Since my truck is a stock (for now) daily driver, this was exactly what I wanted.

When I broke my airbox last year (always make sure the ring clamp actually is loose before yanking on it, LOL) I installed an open element 10x2 inch cleaner and K&N breather. I didn't really gain anything noticeable, but it looks cool and makes a really cool sucking sound.

I know my truck has the ECU "death flash" and almost certain I have a blown plenum and you can definitely feel it in the mid-range. If you have those issues, I agree with everyone else and would deal with them before shelling out money for other stuff.
 

Merc225hp

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Installing gears is not cheap $1000+
 

tommyboi87

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I got my gear for 170, and it was only 375 plus tax for labor. I don't know if it's different from state to state, or if I just got lucky.
 

Stegs

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yes gears are the way to go to use every last HP the engine makes


3.55 to 4.56 is night and day....I did mine with a shift kit in the trans too.....made a nice difference


but yes gears are not cheap, and they wont help your top end speed, but if you want speed you shouldn't be driving a truck
 

Stegs

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I put a 4.10 in the rear and that with the tune shook the cobwebs out of my 318. Great acc., but it still falls on its face in the higher RPM range.




time for a Mopar M1 intake, get rid of that dead spot!
 
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