99 V10 questions

Hey everyone. Ever since selling my 84 w150, I've been in the market for a V10 truck in good shape that was cheap, and the opportunity finally presented itself.

The truck needs the usual things, i.e. a dash cap, and some minor upholstery work. The truck was sold because the engine developed miss that is obviously compression related. I'm not sure of the circumstances leading up to the problem, so I'm trying to figure that out. Along with the dead miss, it smokes quite a bit--oil smoke.

I'm prepared to go through the engine, hopefully just doing a re-ring and bearing job. I'm just looking for advice on what you all think might be the culprit with the miss. I have read that the heads are notorious for cracking, but I don't know if a cracked head would cause a dead miss. It could also be a head gasket, or a burnt valve i suppose. As for the oil smoke, the truck has right at 200k on it. Would you suspect rings or valves? It only smokes under a load, which pretty much eliminates valve seals. The engine has around 80 PSI of oil pressure idling cold (haven't run it long enough to get it hot) so the bottom end appears to be pretty tight.

Sorry for the long post! I appreciate any input!

If it was me I would do a compresion test first then go from there if that checks out then I would lean towards the valves

A compression test is definitely in its near future. Just haven't had the time yet. I would be happy with it being the valves rather than the rings.. It would save me a lot of time.

Thanks!

^+1. One thing you can do is pull the valve covers and pour seafoam on the valve stems. Leave it for a day or two. Can free up stuck valves temporarily

good luck. they are great trucks

if there is a dead miss, wouldn't there be some fault codes thrown?

I figured the reason it didn't have a code was because it was compression related; everything run by the computer is working so I guess it can't tell anything is wrong.

It cranks uneven, which is what is telling me there isn't any (or low) compression on one cylinder.

Test that bad boy!

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3612-C...ster engine&qid=1464512037&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

$25

Thanks for the link, I already have a tester though.

Just checked it a few hours ago. All cylinders tested around 150, except for #7, which had practically nothing. None of the plugs looked great, either. Drivers side plugs were the worst, with quite a bit of suit buildup on all of the plugs except for 7, which was just oily. Pass side plugs were pretty black, but had a little white.

#7 is probably either valves or rings. I'd bet on valves myself

I'm going to put air in the cylinder and see where it comes out. I've got a tool that I made and used to air up the cylinder on a 5.7 hemi changing the valve springs. It should work fine.

I think it's going to be valves or a head gasket. If the rings are bad enough for there to be no compression, that means the rings are broken and there's likely going to be cylinder wall damage, which I don't want.

Thanks!

Well I had a whole long thing typed out but when i got done and told it to post, the site thought that deleting everything I wrote would be a fun thing to do. Thanks for that.

Long story short, my engine has a blown head gasket and needs to be rebuilt, I found an engine with 98k miles on it for $450, and I rode with a friend who was going to get a Wagoneer in Tulsa (which is where the engine was as well) to get it. Here are pictures of it, the plugs out of the old engine, and the plugs out of the new. Sorry for the crappy quality.

Nice!!!

Well, I changed the engine yesterday. I cleaned and painted the block and had big visions of cleaning everything else up in the engine bay and painting, but after I'd been in there a while I said screw it because I wanted to be done. Nobody will ever look under the hood anyways. I did red wrinkle finish the intake plenum though.

Swap went pretty smooth aside from the initial re-installation. Couldn't for the life of me get the trans and the engine at the right angle for the dowels to meet up with the motor mounts on. Took them off, got the engine bolted to the trans and then put them back on. Much easier.

While I was under it disconnecting stuff, I noticed an orange tag on the pass. side of the trans that said "MOPAR REMANUFACTURED 3/12/10". When I pulled the converter to change the front pump seal, the pump was marked 9/2/11. The truck wasn't driven after about June of 2013, so that means that I have a nearly new transmission in the thing.. I'd imagine that trans is at least a couple of grand from Dodge.

Got it together and started it, and it ran but missed intermittently like it had a plug that was dying and only hitting part time, and was popping back through the exhaust. Well, when I put the new plug wires on I looked at the coil packs and the passenger side is numbered 2,4,6,8,10.. You'd think that the top row for the drivers side would be 1,3,5,7,9.. But it isn't. Put the wires on the correct coils and it started up and ran great. I'm surprised it ran at all, because none of the wires on the drivers side were on the correct plugs.

It smoked quite a bit when I first started it, and it has decreased significantly. The engine has been sitting for close to 10 years, so it wouldn't surprise me if the valve seals were dry or the rings were stuck. I'll put some motor renew in it and some sea foam in the oil and that should help clear it the rest of the way up. Exhaust ports didn't have any suit at all, and the plugs (pics above) didn't show any evidence of burning oil so I don't think its anything major.

Anyways, sorry for the long post, and I doubt that anyone gives a damn that I'm doing this, but I figured I would tell yall anyways.

I would go with Marvel Mystery Oil over seafoam. Seafoam sucks.

Let's see this red wrinkle finish though! You mention it but don't show us? ****** tease!

Marksman said:

Anyways, sorry for the long post, and I doubt that anyone gives a damn that I'm doing this, but I figured I would tell yall anyways.

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Hey, alwas a fan of the v10 posts. There is so little info out there on the truck v10, I have to be interested, because I have one, too.

I have marvel mystery oil, i guess i could pour a little into each cylinder. I'll have to disagree with you on the seafoam part, it's some amazing stuff. I have a bunch of carbureted cars that sit for months (sometimes years) at a time without being run, and when they do get started they often run bad-- a little seafoam eats the varnish and clears out the passages and they run good as new again. I've had engines with stuck lifters (my 85 Porsche 944 for example) that wouldn't free up. A couple of ounces in the crankcase freed them right up.

I'll have to get pics of the wrinkle, I didn't take any when I was at the truck (it's not at my house ATM) but i will get some soon. It doesn't look near as good as i'd hoped, but I was doing the swap alone in the middle of nowhere with basic tools so I wasn't able to do it as perfect as I would've liked. I had planned on doing the valve covers the same way, but they were too oily and I ran out of brake cleaner before I got to that part.

Rusty, I like seeing them too. I wish there were more out there.

EDIT: I guess I did take a picture of it. Not very good but you can tell that it's red.

I have a nice tune for the v10, if you have a tuner.

I don't have a tuner. In fact, I've never even used one. Up until now I've owned almost exclusively carbureted cars (I buy what my teenage budget will allow). Have any suggestions on what kind of tuner I should get? I'll do some research of my own as well.

Thanks!

Marksman said:

I don't have a tuner. In fact, I've never even used one. Up until now I've owned almost exclusively carbureted cars (I buy what my teenage budget will allow). Have any suggestions on what kind of tuner I should get? I'll do some research of my own as well.

Thanks!

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SCT sells one for our trucks.