Adding a Mechanical Oil Pressure Guage

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Howdy guys,

I want to add a mechanical oil pressure gauge to my truck, but I'm not sure how to go about doing it. I have a 1998 Ram with the 3.9L V6. I've heard about people T'ing off of the stock electric sending unit, but I don't have the mechanical know-how to tear the top half of the engine off to get to the sending unit. So I did some looking, and I think I found a better option.

The option in question is this little device:
M20 X 1.5 OIL FILTER TEMP PRESSURE COOLER GAUGE SANDWICH PLATE ADAPTER SENSOR RD | eBay

I've never dealt with anything like this before, so my question is, has anybody used a method like this? If so, anything I should know before attempting it? Any tips on routing the nylon line the best way?

Thanks,
Brandon
 

dapepper9

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Just do the T-off. Much easier. Factory sender is a vertical cylinder shape that simply threads into the back of the block behind the intake manifold
 
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MCIntoDarkness
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Just do the T-off. Much easier. Factory sender is a vertical cylinder shape that simply threads into the back of the block behind the intake manifold

Ok, is there a particularly easy way to get to the sender without tearing the intake and all that mess off?
 

crazzywolfie

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it is easier to get at than you think. you just need to get an oil pressure sensor socket to get the sensor out.
 
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MCIntoDarkness
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it is easier to get at than you think. you just need to get an oil pressure sensor socket to get the sensor out.

Is this a tool that any parts store could loan me? My only concern is that the last time I had the sensor replaced, the mechanic told me that he had to pull the entire intake assembly off to get to it.
 

crazzywolfie

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i think he was bs'ing you unless he didn't have the proper tool. i think most parts store would probably have the tool
 
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MCIntoDarkness
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i think he was bs'ing you unless he didn't have the proper tool. i think most parts store would probably have the tool

Just looking at it, I could see where he would draw that conclusion, but I'm no mechanic, I'm just 17 trying to get my truck fixed like I want it without dropping oodles of cash! :roflsquared:
 

Rustycowl69

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it is easier to get at than you think. you just need to get an oil pressure sensor socket to get the sensor out.

just listen to the good advice you're being given. It's not that bad, there is no way the intake needs to be removed. If you use teflon tape as sealer, just be careful to wrap the tape in the correct direction, and don't cover up the first thread. The reason I say that is the tape can shred off and may cover up an oil passage.
 

dudeman2009

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What Rusty said. When you wrap it, you want to wrap the opposite direction of the thread. If the thread screws clockwise, wrap counter.

The easiest way to remember, is to take a section of teflon that will wrap about 2-3 times, hold it with a finger against the threads (one thread up, dont worry if it covers up past the threads towards the sender body) and start turning it pretending you are screwing it into the hole. It might take a few tries to get it right, but you never mess up that way.

As for Ting off, it pretty easy, you just need a couple fittings to make your life easy. The block is threaded to 1/8x28. I've done this setup to verify the accuracy of the dash gauge with a mechanical gauge on plenty of vehicles. You can get back there with your hands, but its a bit cramped, and you will be glad when its over. I built ad adapter that looks like a "y" using two parts like these.

https://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choic...08421&sr=1-102&keywords=1/8"+NPT+oil+pressure

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL50138-Gauge-Fitting/dp/B003C01DJC

The 45* goes first, then the T. You might be able to get away without the 45* adapter and just put the T in there, but i'm not sure. Some of the Chevy engines don't have enough clearance between the distributor and oil pressure sender with the extra height that T adds.

Just teflon them up and tighten them until they don't leak. To align them, tighten them more, don't back it off even the slightest to get it to align or it will leak.

Depending on why you are adding the mechanical gauge, you could wait and save up some money to fix the plenum gasket as well. Then you'd have a good reason to take the intake off.

Whatever you choose, Good Luck!
 

Jimmy68

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Just teflon them up and tighten them until they don't leak. To align them, tighten them more, don't back it off even the slightest to get it to align or it will leak.

!

Careful though. Too tight and you keep tightening to align it and you snap your fitting or strip threads your in for a world of hurt. :roflsquared:
 
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MCIntoDarkness
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What Rusty said. When you wrap it, you want to wrap the opposite direction of the thread. If the thread screws clockwise, wrap counter.

The easiest way to remember, is to take a section of teflon that will wrap about 2-3 times, hold it with a finger against the threads (one thread up, dont worry if it covers up past the threads towards the sender body) and start turning it pretending you are screwing it into the hole. It might take a few tries to get it right, but you never mess up that way.

As for Ting off, it pretty easy, you just need a couple fittings to make your life easy. The block is threaded to 1/8x28. I've done this setup to verify the accuracy of the dash gauge with a mechanical gauge on plenty of vehicles. You can get back there with your hands, but its a bit cramped, and you will be glad when its over. I built ad adapter that looks like a "y" using two parts like these.

https://www.amazon.com/Bikers-Choic...08421&sr=1-102&keywords=1/8"+NPT+oil+pressure

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL50138-Gauge-Fitting/dp/B003C01DJC

The 45* goes first, then the T. You might be able to get away without the 45* adapter and just put the T in there, but i'm not sure. Some of the Chevy engines don't have enough clearance between the distributor and oil pressure sender with the extra height that T adds.

Just teflon them up and tighten them until they don't leak. To align them, tighten them more, don't back it off even the slightest to get it to align or it will leak.

Depending on why you are adding the mechanical gauge, you could wait and save up some money to fix the plenum gasket as well. Then you'd have a good reason to take the intake off.

Whatever you choose, Good Luck!

I have thought about just waiting until I find someone to do the plenum repair. I don't think mine is shot just yet, but I know that it's coming down the line. I'm saving up right now to get the Hughes kit to fix it. It's not that I don't really feel like I can get to the sensor, I just don't have much mechanical experience. Electrics is my specialty. I can wire just about anything up. I figured that the sandwich plate between the oil filter and block would be easier than trying to get to the sensor.
 

Jimmy68

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I have thought about just waiting until I find someone to do the plenum repair. I don't think mine is shot just yet, but I know that it's coming down the line. I'm saving up right now to get the Hughes kit to fix it. It's not that I don't really feel like I can get to the sensor, I just don't have much mechanical experience. Electrics is my specialty. I can wire just about anything up. I figured that the sandwich plate between the oil filter and block would be easier than trying to get to the sensor.

Well if that's what you want, why not get a filter relocation kit instead and make it easier to get the filter and maybe be able to use a bigger filter for a more custom appeal.
 
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MCIntoDarkness
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Well if that's what you want, why not get a filter relocation kit instead and make it easier to get the filter and maybe be able to use a bigger filter for a more custom appeal.

I may just look into that. I could mount it on the firewall, and it would keep the nylon line for the pressure gauge way out of the way of the heat. Thank you for that suggestion!
 

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