Cat removal and o2 sensor question

I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with a 5.9l and I wanted to remove my cat, but there's a o2 sensor In it. I know if I remove it completely my truck won't run right, but I was wondering if anyone else had removed theirs and if so how was it done? I was thinking a X or H pipe and put the o2 sensor in it, or just putting it in one of the pipes; or just out right gutting the cat that's on it right now..

I really don't know where to begin messing with o2 sensors lol...

Without o2 sensors, your engine will run richer, using more fuel. It's not the end of the world, but it's not the greatest way to go about it.

I would toss a high-flow cat in there, to avoid any CELs in the future.

As long as you keep the upstream O2 sensor, you'll be fine, you can just put a dummy on the downstream if you don't like the CEL. You don't need a cat, but I wouldn't remove one unless its plugged.

What you'll need to do is put two O2 bungs in the general stock location in the new pipe. Put the downstream sensor directly in the ****.

For the upstream sensor, get a Dorman HELP! - Non-Foulers 42009 from the parts store. You'll get two fitting. Drill out one fitting to clear the O2 sensor tip. Screw the fitting to the o2 sensor. Then, take the second one and place it directly on the first fitting leaving the small hole it. The computer will see both sensors but the up stream will have a lower reading because less exhaust gas will reach it. Ta-da! No CEL.

If the engine runs a little too rich, you can open up the hole in the second fitting to allow more gas to the sensors. If you open it up too much, well dang, guess you're going to have to a new set of non-foulers. Poop. This setup worked great on a friend's LS3 Camaro a few years ago.

Triple Black said:

What you'll need to do is put two O2 bungs in the general stock location in the new pipe. Put the downstream sensor directly in the ****.

For the upstream sensor, get a Dorman HELP! - Non-Foulers 42009 from the parts store. You'll get two fitting. Drill out one fitting to clear the O2 sensor tip. Screw the fitting to the o2 sensor. Then, take the second one and place it directly on the first fitting leaving the small hole it. The computer will see both sensors but the up stream will have a lower reading because less exhaust gas will reach it. Ta-da! No CEL.

If the engine runs a little too rich, you can open up the hole in the second fitting to allow more gas to the sensors. If you open it up too much, well dang, guess you're going to have to a new set of non-foulers. Poop. This setup worked great on a friend's LS3 Camaro a few years ago.

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This will not work, engine will **** fuel. Upstream senses more oxygen when cat is deleted because the gasses aren't as restricted and don't stick around. O2 thinks truck is running lean and dumps a little extra fuel. IF YOU USE NON-FOULERS ON THE UPSTREAM 02, YOU WILL EXASERBATE THIS. Your engine will **** fuel. This will work on the downstream because downstream doesn't affect a/f ratio and is looking for clean air.

My suggestion, if you're really dead set on deleting the cat, you have 2 very simple options:
1. cut the pipe after the cat and knock the honeycomb out with a piece of rebar, clamp or weld pipe back together
2. a better, easier option though more costly is a JEGS offroad y-pipe. Bolt new pipe in, install 02s in the welded in bungs, and enjoy the ease of bolting up brand new pipes with brand new bolts. Better bends for better flow as well

Upstream: very first sensor if you follow the exhaust path from the head to the tailpipe
Downstream: the 2nd sensor if you follow the exhaust path from the head to the tailpipe

The upstream is "upstream" of the cat. Downstream is "downstream" from the cat. Think of it like a river

Theres no reason to delete the cat, It makes your truck smell like crap, run like crap, plus it's illegal.

You won't gain anything unless your cat is clogged

alanack6795 said:

Theres no reason to delete the cat, It makes your truck smell like crap, run like crap, plus it's illegal.

You won't gain anything unless your cat is clogged

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Not quite true. All is case dependent on how the engine is setup. An otherwise stock truck, yeah pretty much. But other additions can completely turn those results around

dapepper9 said:

Not quite true. All is case dependent on how the engine is setup. An otherwise stock truck, yeah pretty much. But other additions can completely turn those results around

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Not really even on stock system switching to headers, cat deletes, high flow mufflers ect. Really dont add that much power.

Intake and exhuast mods are very costly and don't earn that much

I installed a air intake, 4" straight pipe on my truck and that yielded ZERO gains in MPG, Power and throttle response. All I got was louder truck with more turbine noise from the turbo

Its all a hype.

Heck you probably lose mpg because you lay on it more to hear the new noises it makes

alanack6795 said:

Not really even on stock system switching to headers, cat deletes, high flow mufflers ect. Really dont add that much power.

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On paper no, but the headers increase gas velocity enough to negate the increase in capacity from deleting the cat making it a very functional setup from down low to up high, not perfect at either end but functional at each, much more than you can say manifolds will ever do.

alanack6795 said:

Intake and exhuast mods are very costly and don't earn that much

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Though costly, intake upgrades can make the difference in a build on these v8s. The factory kegger flows 180cfm/runner, 190 with heavy porting. Compare that to the 2bbl M1 in my sig or the readily available hughes airgap which flow 270cfm and 255cfm respectively. These will both max out the factory heads though the increase in cfm now exiting the vehicle will be restricted with a cat and manifolds. Headers help immensely and cat delete does as well by both allowing velocity to rise. And as for increases on paper, mine increased 43whp over stock with the 2bbl, straight through muffler, and 6°of timing advance from a ****** superchips when it laid 223whp. Doesn't sound like much but when a factory truck lays 180, it's noticeable. I've also since added the larger throttle bodies, rockers and a much much better tune which in itself has down 19whp/46wtq increases with that 2bbl.

alanack6795 said:

I installed a air intake, 4" straight pipe on my truck and that yielded ZERO gains in MPG, Power and throttle response. All I got was louder truck with more turbine noise from the turbo.Its all a hype

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Well diesels do operate quite a bit different. Cold air intake do nothing regardless and the real difference you would see if any from exhaust is going to be swapping out the downpipe if you're still running factory. EGTs are the big improvement there. Hope no, balance yes

alanack6795 said:

Heck you probably lose mpg because you lay on it more to hear the new noises it makes

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I can't deny that lol

It doesn't take much to feel more performance. My Rust free 1997 Short bed had a 5.9 and 3.90 gears had way more snot than my 95 318 with 3.55s.

On paper the 5.9 doesn't make more power, but has a much better power curve

and the diesel is slower than both

dapepper9 said:

On paper no, but the headers increase gas velocity enough to negate the increase in capacity from deleting the cat making it a very functional setup from down low to up high, not perfect at either end but functional at each, much more than you can say manifolds will ever do.

Though costly, intake upgrades can make the difference in a build on these v8s. The factory kegger flows 180cfm/runner, 190 with heavy porting. Compare that to the 2bbl M1 in my sig or the readily available hughes airgap which flow 270cfm and 255cfm respectively. These will both max out the factory heads though the increase in cfm now exiting the vehicle will be restricted with a cat and manifolds. Headers help immensely and cat delete does as well by both allowing velocity to rise. And as for increases on paper, mine increased 43whp over stock with the 2bbl, straight through muffler, and 6°of timing advance from a ****** superchips when it laid 223whp. Doesn't sound like much but when a factory truck lays 180, it's noticeable. I've also since added the larger throttle bodies, rockers and a much much better tune which in itself has down 19whp/46wtq increases with that 2bbl.

Well diesels do operate quite a bit different. Cold air intake do nothing regardless and the real difference you would see if any from exhaust is going to be swapping out the downpipe if you're still running factory. EGTs are the big improvement there. Hope no, balance yes

I can't deny that lol

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Let me tell yall why i want it with no cat - i want to be the loudest around where i live gotta show up those chevys! i mean honestly if its gonna make the difference in my truck running like garbage then i can just leave the factory cat on it... answer me this though, If i was to leave the cat on it would swapping from 2.5" pipe to 2" or 1" 7/8 and also going from single pipe to dual make it louder?

I wouldn't go less than 2" and no bigger than 2.25"for duals unless you have a lot of engine work done to er. It'll be loud as hell but in my opinion sound like ****. Buy that's my $0.02

dapepper9 said:

I wouldn't go less than 2" and no bigger than 2.25"for duals unless you have a lot of engine work done to er. It'll be loud as hell but in my opinion sound like ****. Buy that's my $0.02

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Vehicles that are load and sound like **** are just annoying and are not cool.