Intercooler piping

e_hartzell17 · Dec 26, 2016

As some may know I'm building a custom remote mount turbo for my 5.2 magnum. I'm trying to run my piping WITHOUT the intercooler at the moment and the problem I'm running into is my piping is literally 1" away from my headers and to make it all worse it's the rubber boot that's that close to the headers

dudeman2009 · Dec 26, 2016

I think I see a use for those ever hated metallic heat shields.

Or an interesting chance to make water cooled turbo piping.

e_hartzell17 · Dec 26, 2016

I was thinking header wrap and an aluminum heat sheild

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dapepper9 · Dec 26, 2016

Better pic of the engine bay?

e_hartzell17 · Dec 26, 2016

this is the best I got at the moment

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dapepper9 · Dec 26, 2016

You went remote mount? If i remember correctly, right?

e_hartzell17 · Dec 26, 2016

Yes

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e_hartzell17 · Dec 26, 2016

dapepper9 said:
You went remote mount? If i remember correctly, right?

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dapepper9 · Dec 26, 2016

Off the top of my head could run it through the fender well or have the rubber boot higher up by using a longer piece of pipe there

e_hartzell17 · Dec 27, 2016

dapepper9 said:
Off the top of my head could run it through the fender well or have the rubber boot higher up by using a longer piece of pipe there

What vac line would I tap for my boost guage??

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dudeman2009 · Dec 27, 2016

e_hartzell17 said:
What vac line would I tap for my boost guage??

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I'd pick one thats larger like PCV hose size, not those small ones that run the A/C doors and 4x4.

You could possibly use the brake booster line, its plenty large enough to allow the gauge to respond quickly while also being free from oil and grime. Its also easy to get to and the only time there is usage of that line is during braking, which i'm guessing you don't care about boost pressure being accurate when you are depressing the brake pedal. If you use that one, once the brake pedal is depressed the line will return to manifold pressure pretty quickly, you'd only have a split second of funny business while using the brakes.

You could put it before the throttle plate, but personally I would be more interested at what my pressures are right there where the air is moving into the cylinders.

e_hartzell17 · Dec 27, 2016

dudeman2009 said:
I'd pick one thats larger like PCV hose size, not those small ones that run the A/C doors and 4x4.

You could possibly use the brake booster line, its plenty large enough to allow the gauge to respond quickly while also being free from oil and grime. Its also easy to get to and the only time there is usage of that line is during braking, which i'm guessing you don't care about boost pressure being accurate when you are depressing the brake pedal. If you use that one, once the brake pedal is depressed the line will return to manifold pressure pretty quickly, you'd only have a split second of funny business while using the brakes.

You could put it before the throttle plate, but personally I would be more interested at what my pressures are right there where the air is moving into the cylinders.

Uhhhh no a small vac line

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dudeman2009 · Dec 28, 2016

e_hartzell17 said:
Uhhhh no a small vac line

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Then if you dont have 4x4 then pull the plug off the nipple on the passenger side and use that, otherwise get a T-fitting and hook in to the A/C vacuum nipple off the manifold.

dapepper9 · Dec 29, 2016

yeah just T off the manifold

e_hartzell17 · Dec 29, 2016

dapepper9 said:
yeah just T off the manifold

Like this

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dapepper9 · Dec 29, 2016

Pretty much but put the T right at the manifold nipple. There's check valves in that line.

dapepper9 · Dec 29, 2016

Brain fart, since you're going to have to run a line for the new MAP sensor anyways, T in there. Will allow you to be able to watch exactly what your sensor is seeing that way

Max78 · Dec 29, 2016

For that joint i would weld a elbow there if you can first.

If thats not possible and you want a quick and dirty solution look into an ebay turbo blanket to go around the intercooler piping. I would have suggested you wrap your exhaust manifold but doing so will make your rusty header situation a lot worse.

As for vacuum line, connect it engine side of the throttle body, so somwhere on the intake manifold.

Intercooler piping

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