M1 intake

So I got this set up today. Just trying to decide on what mods will be nessasary to make it work? Like camshaft or head work?

I guess more info would be good. Its going on my 2wd shortbed. It, s a road burner won,t be towing anything. Thanks.

M1-4 with a four-barrel throttle body, am I right?

That setup will make a TON of top-end power. With the right setup, you're looking at 4-500 horsepower naturally aspirated. Easy.

You're going to need a TON of cash to make it happen however. A pair of Eddies, and an appropriate camshaft (bucho options here) will go a long ways, but plan on at least three grand here. You're going to need some uprated injectors and a custom tune. Also, assuming you got an automatic, you're going to want to swap the torque converter with something with higher "flash" stall if you want any kind of respectable off-the-line acceleration. Also, install an auxiliary cooler if you want the tranny to live for any kind of mileage.

Probably should consider having the rear axle rebuilt to handle the (lots of) extra power. Consider a Detroit TrueTrac as those offer all the perks of a limited slip without the pesky inconveniecne of replacing clutch packs every once in a while. May as well swap the ring and pinion for a lower ratio set, say 4.10, to really pep things up.

What I'm trying to say is you've got a couple of pieces to a really big puzzle of big-time performance. How far do you want to go and how much do you want to spend? Put all this together and, with street tires, you'll have yourself a twelve-second truck, which is quick enough to outrun most vehicles that you're likely to encounter. Not to mention, scare the **** out of any non-hot rod passengers who don't know what you've got.

I am starting with a budget of $3000. I,m thinking of having the stock heads ported and polishised. I already built the rearend with 410s, and have a trans cooler. Need to figure out the camshaft. Also picked up a set of 1.7 roller rockers. I bought this truck brand new and my daughter has here hands on it next, so its not going anywhere. Except faster.

Three grand is a good start. Also, rebuilt rear with 4.10s is huge (not to mention gonna save a grand plus).

Don't bother messing with the factory heads. They're probably cracked anyway. If you want to keep things budget friendly, look at a set of Hughes Iron Rams or JEGS EngineQuest heads. Around $1,200 for an assembled set and they have thicker castings between the valves to eliminate that pesky cracking problem plus have slightly larger ports. Or, if you can get porting work done for cheap or do it yourself, you can just pick up a set of aftermarket heads that have OEM-sized ports but still have thicker castings for $6-700. Check L&C Enterprises on eBay. I got a set of heads from them a few years back and haven't had any issues that I can detect. These use OEM-spec springs however and won't hold up well to aftermarket cams. You could contact them and see if they'll send you a pair of bare heads and get whatever you need from springs afterwards.

As far as the cam goes, the optimum cam maximizes running compression as well as allows more volume of airflow into the cylinders. This is virtually impossible to pinpoint without knowing the static compression of the engine so the optimum cam depends largely on the pistons and heads you're planning to use. It is said that the factory cam can support surprisingly large power but does tend to yield lowish running compression which is certainly done for general reliability. Generally speaking, iron heads won't support as much running compression due to them tending to hold more heat than aluminum heads which can increase the likelihood of "knocking."

Now, you could install a methanol injection setup which will significantly cool the air/fuel mixture and allow you to run even more compression but now you're getting a little out in left field plus compromise reliability doing so.

Lots of stuff goes into it. That's why the top engine builders always have an edge over everyone else; they look at every little detail and ensure that all parts work together optimally. But if you're not trying to aim for total precision, you'll still make 4-500 ponies pretty easy if you got the cash.

Also, love the Viper look. If I ever bought a second-gen, that's the paint scheme I'd go with. +1 on the shaker scoop as well.

Things you'll NEED to install that are throttle linkage, vacuum tree, gm or ford tps, and i would highly suggest Frp's M1 canned tune at the least. that'll help negate the low end loss. So will good headers.

As for 3k budget, first i would get it installed and first add being tune. Then pacesetter longtubes and a full 2.5" dual or 3" single exhaust, whichever you prefer. $2k left, get your gearing done. Bout $1k left, you could port and polish your heads, if a shop will do em because the valve seats are likely cracked though you could maybe find good ones in a junk yard, but anything on stock heads is going to limited in overall benefit. Specifically cam. Cam work will need a custom tune, period. Cam is the heart of an engine's attitude and as such should be chosen based on how you want it to act. For attitude, you're primarily looking at LSA or Lobe Separation Angle. Wider LSAs like 114* tend to be a little "lazier" with power through a greater powerband, closest to stock characteristics and very similar attitude to factory cam but with more power. Narrower like 108* tend to have a narrow powerband but with more power, faster rev Ann's better N/A acceleration but somewhat poor street manners

So these bits came with the m1 also. This is how we had it set up on my friends truck before I got it. It worked really well in 2 barrel form with only long tube headers and cold air.

So now I need to fab a mounting setup for the throttle and TV cables. Also the stock fuel rail won,t work. Any ideas on that?

goodtodoo said:

So now I need to fab a mounting setup for the throttle and TV cables. Also the stock fuel rail won,t work. Any ideas on that?

Click to expand...

If I remember, one of the spacers for the mounting bolts needs to be trimmed so the factory fuel rail will fit nicely. Its not too much, another option though i'm not sure if you'll run into the same fitting issue, is to get one of these overpriced pieces of eye candy.

This one has an option to select your intake specifically.

Anodized 6AN Billet Aluminum Fuel Rails 5.2/5.9 Dodge Dakota Durango Ram Jeep Magnum OEM Barrel Intake, Hughes Airgap, M1 2-BBL, M1 4-BBL - HiPoTek

Most use the studs that are used in carb applications for cable attachment. On my old phone i had a screenshot of the pn and product but I've since lost it

These are what I'm talking about



And th is is the kind of bracket you'll need to use with the tv cable. This is for Chevy applications on a driverside connection but very very similar.