New 46RE feels like its not grabbing

Just put a reman 46re into my 01 2500 with 124000 miles 360 motor. After installing new trans the truck seemed sluggish.after buying a lot of sensors it feals more like the the engine is fine but the transmission is not grabbing properly. I Adjusted TV cable so that all shift points are right as they should be according to the packet that came with the trans. Install went smoot I filled the torque converter up with fluid before I put it on. Fluid level is perfect and smells good not like it was burned. also replaced all trans cooler lines and radiator and trans cooler and took out the check valve.am getting a check engine light the code says o2 bank 1 sensor 2. Don't know if this could be a part of the problem.

Here is a list of work I have done to the truck in trying to fix this

Took off throttle boddy cleaned the best I could get into intake manifold.
Cleaned throttle body
Put new iac valve
New throttle position sensor
New map sensor
New cold air intakeb

New upstream o2 sensor
New catalytic converter with 3" in and out
New downstream o2 sensor
3" pipe that goes out about a foot and ends between cab and bed I ordered a black flowmaster super 44 3" in dual2.5" out and I'm running it out the back to the sides right under the back bumper.

Did nothing to fuel system

Put new Njk spark plugs
New crank position sensor
New speed sensor on rear diff

I also put in a computer out of a 99 ram 1500 with a 360 and a 46 re just to see if it made a difference and the motor ran a lot more powerfull but as soon as I put it in my trans temp light and o/d light came on think it's because 99 and 01 trans have different sensors because the truck was cold. So I ordered a new computer and I'm waiting for it to come.

Also when I changed the down stream o2 sensor the old one smelled a little like gas

All this was done in the las week I'm running out of ideas im thinking maybe the bands wher not adjusted properly from the reman any thoughts would be great I know nothing about transmissions and I don't want to take it to the granny shop if there's somthing I can doo

if the front O2 sensor is not clicked in to the harness it won't run right. Your getting an O2 sensor trouble code. Maybe start there. how did you adjust the TV cable specifically? Is it right down on the trans first?

With the front 02 not working it will be running in open loop, it will be a little fat and thats about it. This could explain why you smelled a bit of raw gas.

Has a comp test been done on this motor? This is a basic test and should be done on any older motor.

I would set the TV cable as per the instructions in the FSM.

Has the plenum gasket been done yet?

I would indeed take it back to the tranny shop as its a rebuild it should be under warranty, you mess with it and that warranty will be null and void.

I see you did part of a tune up might be time to change the cap and rotor maybe plug wires as well.

Did you reset the pcm after all this work was done?

The o2 sensors are definitely plugged in I double and triple checked that. The way I adjusted the TV cable was by un clipping it at the throttle boddy and tightened it up until the clip lined up perfectly with the post on tb. Then I re connected it and made sure everything was moving in sync with each other then test drove and had to do small adjustments for the shift points to be correct off the top of my head I think it was 1rst to 2nd shift at 15 to 20 mph 2nd to 3rd at 28 to 32 mph and 3rd to 4th at 50 to 55 mph.
Actually now that I think about it I have 35" tires on the truck so.... could this be the problem the way I'm trying to set the cable is not working because speedometer is getting wrong reading because of the tire size? All connections are good on the transmission. It just bolts on with a spring and I don't remember any way to adjust it down there. Tanks.

I have not had the computer tested I did put my scanner on it to read whatever codes wher coming up and I did the thing when you turn the key and hold the odometer button and the truck does a self check kind of thing. It was the first time I ever truer something like that but where the mileage is it said testing it did that for a few min then no codes and then all the gauges went quarter of the way then half then 3 quarters to full blast then everything shut off and went back to normal. I have done this about five times over the past week hoping it might tell me something but its just the same thing every time. I dont know if you meant bringing it to the dealer but that's what I've done as far as checking computer so far. And swapping out of a 99 ram 1500 with 5.9 and 46re this computer is making a lot of lights come on the dash but engine seemed to run a lot better so I ordered a new computer.

Plenum gasket has not been done yet but wouldn't I be burning oil ? No oil loss or burn is happening

35's and stock ratio gears will not go well, you need to look at a gear change to help bring it back up to par. I would lay odds that now there is a new tranny in the truck that is not slipping you are now feeling the lack of proper gearing.

You can adjust the TV cable all you want and it will not help. Adjust it to much and you can and will kill the new tranny.

As I understand it, the shift points from the PCM are just a target, the 46RE still shifts on hydraulic pressure. Jump in here anytime big Merc.

I believe the correct adjustment for the TV cable is just to take the slack out of it. While you can go further and "tighten" up the shifts, or so we think, it can cause it to shift erratically.

Since you been working on it and adjusting the TV cable, maybe reset the PCM and correctly adjust the TV cable only taking the slack out? And that's erring on the side of the newly rebuilt trans being OK. Did you get the old parts back from the transmission rebuild?

I miss my generation 2.

Saltillo Express said:

As I understand it, the shift points from the PCM are just a target, the 46RE still shifts on hydraulic pressure. Jump in here anytime big Merc.

I believe the correct adjustment for the TV cable is just to take the slack out of it. While you can go further and "tighten" up the shifts, or so we think, it can cause it to shift erratically.

Since you been working on it and adjusting the TV cable, maybe reset the PCM and correctly adjust the TV cable only taking the slack out? And that's erring on the side of the newly rebuilt trans being OK. Did you get the old parts back from the transmission rebuild?

I miss my generation 2.

Click to expand...

I have conflicting info on this, I have been told just as you posted that it is more hyd controlled than elec controled for 1,2,3, shifts. My understanding is the the pcm only controls the OD and TC lock up. I have heard this from tranny shops and others, but others have told me 99 and up its all elec controled.

I copied this out of the 2001 FSM

ADJUSTMENTS - TRANSMISSION THROTTLE VALVE CABLE

A correctly adjusted throttle valve cable will cause the throttle lever on the transmission to move simultaneously with the throttle body lever from the idle position. Proper adjustment will allow simultaneous movement without causing the transmission throttle lever to either move ahead of, or lag behind the lever on the throttle body.

ADJUSTMENT VERIFICATION
(1) Turn ignition key to OFF position.

(2) Remove air cleaner.

(3) Verify that lever on throttle body is at curb idle position (Fig. 229). Then verify that the transmission throttle lever (Fig. 230) is also at idle (fully forward) position.

(4) Slide cable off attachment stud on throttle body lever.

(5) Compare position of cable end to attachment stud on throttle body lever: Cable end and attachment stud should be aligned (or centered on one another) to within 1 mm (0.039 in.) in either direction (Fig. 231). ² If cable end and attachment stud are misaligned (off center), cable will have to be adjusted as described in Throttle Valve Cable Adjustment procedure.

(6) Reconnect cable end to attachment stud. Then with aid of a helper, observe movement of transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body. If both levers move simultaneously from idle to half-throttle and back to idle position,adjustment is correct.If transmission throttle lever moves ahead of, or lags behind throttle body lever, cable adjustment will be necessary. Or, if throttle body lever prevents transmission lever from returning to closed position,cable adjustment will be necessary.

ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

(1) Turn ignition switch to OFF position.

(2) Remove air cleaner if necessary.

(3) Disconnect cable end from attachment stud.Carefully slide cable off stud. Do not pry or pull cable off.

(4) Verify that transmission throttle lever is in fully closed position. Then be sure lever on throttle body is at curb idle position.

(5) Pry the T.V. cable lock (A) into the UP position (Fig. 231). This will unlock the cable and allow for readjustment.

(6) Apply just enough tension on the T.V. cable (B) to remove any slack in the cable.Pulling too tight will cause the T.V. lever on the transmission to move out of its idle position, which will result in an incorrect T.V. cable adjustment. Slide the sheath of the T.V. cable (D) back and forth until the centerlines of the T.V. cable end (B) and the throttle bell crank lever (C) are aligned within one millimeter (1mm) (Fig. 231).

(7) While holding the T.V. cable in the set position push the T.V. cable lock (A) into the down position (Fig. 231). This will lock the present T.V. cable adjustment.

NOTE: Be sure that as the cable is pulled forward and centered on the throttle lever stud, the cable housing moves smoothly with the cable. Due to the angle at which the cable housing enters the spring housing, the cable housing may bind slightly and create an incorrect adjustment.

(8) Reconnect the T.V. cable (B) to the throttle bellcrank lever (C).

(9) Check cable adjustment. Verify transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body move simultaneously.



I hate auto trannys and can't wait to install the nv4500 this spring.

I think you should get a 2nd gen just to mess with great trucks in my op, so easy to work on compared to newer trucks.

I hate this '13 swamp donkey. Sorry back to OP. Merc's post looks right out of the book to me. Hmmm.

Long shot - I wonder why the 02 sensor you took out was covered in fuel? And now you have another 02 code? Is that upstream or downstream that' throwing the code?

I recall that upstream 02 sensor helps set the fuel and spark curves. That, with the crank and cam sensor. My 96 4x4 had 30 inch tires on it and when the 02 sensor started going bad - it ran like a phord, lethargic shifts, etc.

Ok so I put the trucks original computer back in today after its been unplugged for a few days and sitting in my house were its warm and dry and I and the engine runs good. I noticed the computer has a plate that can be removed so that you can get into it but on the bottom and top seam there are no center screws witch caused the plate to bow enough that you could slide a quarter in there. I don't know if this is a common thing but I was thinking when my new computer gets here maybe I should wrap that seam with something like electrical tape maybe. I don't know if its supost to be able to breath maybe moisture got in there and stewed with it. Has any one built a box around it I had some diamond plate laying around I thought about constructing somthing to shield it from water but then I was thinking it might need good airflow to stay cool.

Still no luck with the transmission I know the tires being 35" isn't the best stock gear ratio but the thing that gets me is that before the old trans went bad this truck had power and ran great no lag anywhere with the 35" tires. What happened exactly was I was out plowing with the truck for the first time in the biggist storm we had all year and the trans temp light came on after a few hours of plowing. I was on a driveway that was pretty steep so it was a lot of work for the truck and when I got to the top of the hill the light came on. So I put the truck in neutral and sat there for about a little over a Minuit and the light went off I knew right then and there I was going to have to get a new tranny by the end of that storm. So I continued plowing and a few hours later it happened again same thing two mins light went off about an hour later again only this time light didn't go off and it smelled bad . Long story short I finished my driveways and made it home with a truck that wouldn't go out of third gear. Pulled right in the garage and pulled trans outordered new one put it in and now I'm having this lack of power the only thing that the new trans didn't come with where two sensors I had to take off the old trans could it be that those are damaged from over heating. One was i thing speedo sensor and the other I don't remember what it was for.

Also the code that's coming ups is p0138 I cleared it and computer sat in my house for a few days so I'm guessing its reset. The light comes on after a few min of driving. If I clear the code it can idle all day without coming on .

Also have an issue with abs and brake light coming on at the same time. It's been happening for a while. If I turn the truck off disconnect the battery it goes off but when I start the truck it will come on within two min weather the truck moves or just idles in park. For this I have tried chenging speed sensor in rear diff did nothing.

Thanks for your help that procedure for the TV cable adjustment that you put up merc is the same one I used off this forum in setting mine. I don't want to but I think it might come down to bringing it to a tranny shop. The only other thing I can think of is changing those two sensors that came off the old tranny and for some reason I just feel like a band adjustment might be something but then again I know nothing about transmissions.

Also what gear ratio should I be running with 35s

I can't figure out why the o2 sensor code is popping up I'm going crazy here
Thanks for the help

I was thinking on this lack of power and shifting and it might be worth your while to test or just change out the TPS it does have a effect on shifting.

I would install an new 02 make sure it is of the NTK brand.

Edit: Gear ratio as you plow and have 35's I am going to suggest 4.88 nothing else.

OD at 50-55 is a sign of having large tires on stock gears.

I only know this because I had test driven one with that exact configuration and that's exactly how it behaved.

I'm an expert. LOL

As far as the 46RE being electronic, it's not at all. All you have to do is start reading in the FSM and look at the trans. itself. The shifting of gears 1-3 is entirely hydraulic, same as on my 1976 727 auto. That's why you can play with the TV cable and change how it behaves. The "electronic" part comes in with the OD and OD Lockup. That is electronic as the PCM does control that.

Remember, the 46RE is simply a 727 auto with OD. That's it, nothing more. Just adaptions and schtruff.

^^^ I am still not 100% sure about that, if you unplug the wiring harness from the tranny it will not upshift by itself you have to manually upshift the tranny using the shifter. This is the one test you can do to see if the two elec parts are working or not.

That would be the governor pressure solenoid, I believe, that's doing that. It's still WAY more hydraulic than it's "Electronic" name lends us to believe.

Not to start splitting hairs with you, but then the tranny is not 100% hydraulic for 1-3 shifts as per your post 13 states above. It does take the pcm to get it to shift right.

As you know more about these trannys than I do I will stay out of tranny threads from now on

You should know I still know nothing compared to some people. I just don't like it when people refer to the 46RE as being electronic with it's only about maybe 50% electronic, so I'd say half and half is a fair assessment of the functionings of it. A fully electronic transmission would allow you to actually set transmission shift points via the computer and that's very difficult with the 46RE.

^^^ You are a very smart youman and you DO know more about these trannys than I do hands down. Yep half and half controlled.

Q for you though, I thought the SCT for the 99 years and up could control shift points, well thats what I have read anyway. What do you think on that?

Merc225hp said:

^^^ You are a very smart youman and you DO know more about these trannys than I do hands down. Yep half and half controlled.

Q for you though, I thought the SCT for the 99 years and up could control shift points, well thats what I have read anyway. What do you think on that?

Click to expand...

Well, thanks. lol I still know nothing compared to others though.


I believe it is 99 and up that can be controlled more easily. A tuner (Hemifever) can adjust them with a bit of figgagling, but it requires a new tune as the PCM has to be completely overwritten for everything and because of this, it's not near as easy to control shift points on these trucks/transmissions as it is on the 3rd and 4th gen trucks with the 45/545RFE and newer transmissions.

Ok just got the new ntk brand o2 sensor maybe that will help with the check engine light we will see.

Still have no idea what's going on with the brake/abs light il worry about that later.

Just got my flowmaster 3" in dual 2.5" out in the mail so I'm going outside to put the exaust together so at least I have one chapter closed

Also I ordered a edge evolution cs programmer that should also get here today I figured this would be a cool thing to have because I tow my boat in the summer and I can enter tire size and re calibrate computer according to the modifications I have made to my truck.
The only problem is I have no clue what I'm doing with any computer stuff so we will see about this thing. Any advise on this thing would be great.

As far as the transmission goes maybe its not the transmission maybe it's the way the engine is performing. My gut is telling me I should get the sensors from the old trans out and replace them I don't know why or what they do that's just my gut so I will probably have that imaginary feeling that something's not right until I do that.

Could anyone explain what they do one was speedo sensor and they other one might have been park neutral safety could either of these have been damaged by the last trans overheating and now be causing this problem that I'm having?