Plenum repairs

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Silver Tex

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2013
Posts
62
Reaction score
7
Ram Year
1999
Engine
5.9
Hello,
I'm going to repair the plenum on my son's (new to us) 99 5.9L Magnum - 158K on the clock. The site has provided great information and insight. I appreciate that.

I thought while we were in there and at the suggestion of the plenum sticky, we'd swap the water pump and timing chain.

Question 1: The timing cover has 2 bolts that interface with the oil pan. What is the chance I have to pull the oil pan to complete this work. I'm thinking I can loosen the bolts and lower the pan sufficiently to remove/replace the timing cover. If I end up having to pull the pan, the manual states the motor mounts have to be unbolted and the engine lifted...yuck!

Question 2: I have a cam shaft position sensor, but it was such a chore just to change out cap/rotor, I'm thinking I'll put it in while the manifold is out if for no other reason than I have good access to it.

Question 3: What are the thoughts about mod's to the stock manifold, runners and injector ports? Have been doing some reading about it.

Generally we are looking to achieve a sound running truck that gets the best mileage we can squeak out it.

Went with recommendations in the stick - Hughes aluminum plate kit; 180 degree SS t-stat; gates water pump; cloyes double roller timing set (gaskets, crank seal included); Fel Pro gasket sets. Already did the wires, rotor, cap - all the hard way. Will change out the oil sending unit while the manifold is off.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Scott.
 

Johnn123

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Posts
2,090
Reaction score
1,099
Location
Ontario
Ram Year
2010
Engine
5.7L Hemi
Hello,
I'm going to repair the plenum on my son's (new to us) 99 5.9L Magnum - 158K on the clock. The site has provided great information and insight. I appreciate that.

Welcome, thats what were here for!

I thought while we were in there and at the suggestion of the plenum sticky, we'd swap the water pump and timing chain.

Good choice both are known to go in these trucks.

Question 1: The timing cover has 2 bolts that interface with the oil pan. What is the chance I have to pull the oil pan to complete this work. I'm thinking I can loosen the bolts and lower the pan sufficiently to remove/replace the timing cover. If I end up having to pull the pan, the manual states the motor mounts have to be unbolted and the engine lifted...yuck!

I do believe you can undo the front pan bolts to drop its enough to get the timing cover off. I'm not 100% sure of this so Ill let someone else confirm that. Probably will have to end up dropping the whole pan to replace the gasket. Should have enough room to raise the front end up enough to drop it.


Question 2: I have a cam shaft position sensor, but it was such a chore just to change out cap/rotor, I'm thinking I'll put it in while the manifold is out if for no other reason than I have good access to it.

Be your best plan while the manifolds off. If the sensors working fine I wouldnt change it though...

Question 3: What are the thoughts about mod's to the stock manifold, runners and injector ports? Have been doing some reading about it.

You can cut the runners back and move the power band up but you will lose bottom end power. Myself I'd just leave it the way it is.

Generally we are looking to achieve a sound running truck that gets the best mileage we can squeak out it.

Dont expect more then 13-14 mpg out of it if its 4x4. Quad cab even worse. These trucks were not built with mileage in mind LOL.

Went with recommendations in the stick - Hughes aluminum plate kit; 180 degree SS t-stat; gates water pump; cloyes double roller timing set (gaskets, crank seal included); Fel Pro gasket sets. Already did the wires, rotor, cap - all the hard way. Will change out the oil sending unit while the manifold is off.

Are you planning on running a hemifever tune? If not no need for a 180* run a 195* stat. In winter you will want a 195* stat. I use stant stats theyre a good quality. Wouldnt bother changing the oil sending unit if its working youd be better off installing a mechanical gauge instead. Otherwise list looks solid. Dont forget a new cat and o2 sensors as well. Cat will become clogged from the burning oil due to a leaky plenum and o2 sensors should be changed out as well.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Scott.

My answers are in bold and in red. Hope thats what you were lookin for! Good luck :peace:
 

dodge dude94

Millennial Boomer
Joined
Sep 5, 2013
Posts
27,745
Reaction score
6,426
Location
East Texas
Ram Year
1998 Ram 1500
Engine
5.9 Magnum
^Everything John said.

I had a nice long post typed up last night but then for some reason everything took a dump. :mad:
 
OP
OP
S

Silver Tex

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2013
Posts
62
Reaction score
7
Ram Year
1999
Engine
5.9
Thanks you guys.

I should have been more clear on the oil sending unit. It doesn't work. At idle shows 40 or so, then pegs. Maybe I can put a threaded tee in and run both. I do like the mechanical gauge and this would be a perfect time to do it.

Cat/O2 sensors - I read somewhere not to worry about the backside sensor. Thoughts? No CEL, passed Colorado emissions. Is this any indication of cat status? How reliable is the pressure test for the cat - something like 1/4" in front of cat and measure pressure? If over some value, cat is plugged. I can't remember exactly what I read.

Thoughts on cat and sensor manufacturers?

Last mileage check 9.75. 13 - 14 would be almost a 50% improvement.

Thanks again,
Scott.
 

Johnn123

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Posts
2,090
Reaction score
1,099
Location
Ontario
Ram Year
2010
Engine
5.7L Hemi
Thanks you guys.

I should have been more clear on the oil sending unit. It doesn't work. At idle shows 40 or so, then pegs. Maybe I can put a threaded tee in and run both. I do like the mechanical gauge and this would be a perfect time to do it.

Ahh fair enough definitely replace in that case. Yes you can use a tee to run both, many do that!

Cat/O2 sensors - I read somewhere not to worry about the backside sensor. Thoughts? No CEL, passed Colorado emissions. Is this any indication of cat status? How reliable is the pressure test for the cat - something like 1/4" in front of cat and measure pressure? If over some value, cat is plugged. I can't remember exactly what I read.

They can cause CEL's but the front is more worth replacing then the rear. Is your plenum blown? If it is leaking yes replace your cat, it will be ruined from the burning oil. An e-test may not pick that up, im not to sure on that. But if it IS leaking its in your best interest to replace.

Thoughts on cat and sensor manufacturers?

Some trucks prefer NTK sensors while others prefer Bosch. NTK is OEM. Cat go with magnaflow.

Last mileage check 9.75. 13 - 14 would be almost a 50% improvement.

What size tires? Quad cab or reg cab? 4x4 or 4x2? Bigger tires on a quad cab 4x4 would put you about there. Leaky plenums often lead to wors then normal fuel mileage.

Thanks again,
Scott.

Answers in bold and red again.
 

Merc225hp

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Posts
5,145
Reaction score
3,130
Location
NA
Ram Year
truck
Engine
gas
Johnn123 has it covered very well.

Op don't forget to get new intake manifold bolts if they are not included in that kit, old ones are NOT or should NOT be reused. And remember in.lbs not ft.lbs when tqing them down.

For the oil pan, the front two must come out, then you can just loosen off the bolts about halfway back on the pan this will help.
 
OP
OP
S

Silver Tex

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2013
Posts
62
Reaction score
7
Ram Year
1999
Engine
5.9
Truck is
Quad Cab, 4 speed auto
265/17R-16 tires

I ordered a new front side O2 sensor. Had a little bit of a challenge confirming the correct side part number. RockAuto had L/R pre-cat shown (heavy duty motor). NTK - got it figured out and documented now.

Cat - no new cat ordered yet. Considering 2 options - both MagnaFlow.
With or without added piping. Any comments? I'd like to go with the "without piping" and would take any thoughts on change out. About a $65 cost difference and ease of installation will weigh into to which one way I go based on any feedback received.

Hughes kit comes with new manifold bolts. Have both in/ft pound torque's and have made note of the sequence and which wrench to use.

I did order a new oil pan gasket in case. I appreciate the idea of lifting the body and letting the suspension hang in an effort to gain the necessary clearance if it needs to be changed. It doesn't leak now and I don't want it to leak after.

I have a pretty high level of confidence the plenum has failed. Checked it through the TB - quite a bit of oil. Also confirmed steel plate with magnet.

Truck doesn't use oil beyond what I would anticipate with this mileage. It came with pretty good maintenance records. This tank of fuel is showing better mileage - indications suggest double digits without the use of a decimal point :).

Fuel rail line disconnect tool: I read somewhere size E - sound correct?

You guys have all offered good stuff! I may write a follow up after we are done. At a minimum there should be some entertaining anecdotes.

One other question. Do any of you have issues with log on when using MS Explorer? I switched to Firefox and it seems to work better. I have written this post 3 times now and I kept getting booted when trying to preview. Going without preview this time.

Thanks again all! Any other thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Scott.
 

Johnn123

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Posts
2,090
Reaction score
1,099
Location
Ontario
Ram Year
2010
Engine
5.7L Hemi
Truck is
Quad Cab, 4 speed auto
265/17R-16 tires

Good size on the tires, I think a 265/75/16 is what ya meant though. Good size, you will get optimal mileage out of them. You will get a little worse then other rams being the quad cab though. They are heavier. Is it 4 wheel drive? That will make a difference as well.

I ordered a new front side O2 sensor. Had a little bit of a challenge confirming the correct side part number. RockAuto had L/R pre-cat shown (heavy duty motor). NTK - got it figured out and documented now.

Yeah I had the same headache trying to figure out which part number was the right one. Think I went to canadian tire twice to return different sensors lol. NTK should work good.

Cat - no new cat ordered yet. Considering 2 options - both MagnaFlow.
With or without added piping. Any comments? I'd like to go with the "without piping" and would take any thoughts on change out. About a $65 cost difference and ease of installation will weigh into to which one way I go based on any feedback received.

When I got mine, it was a direct fit. Two 2 1/4" inlets, One 2 1/2" outlet. Just need couplers and clamps , no clamps if you're gonna weld. I wouldn't bother buying one with piping. A direct fit will fit in the same spot as factory. Just beware you may need to lengthen the wires on the front o2 sensor, I know I had to. You can buy a wire extension, or just solder extensions in. No butt connectors or electrical tape tied connections!!

Hughes kit comes with new manifold bolts. Have both in/ft pound torque's and have made note of the sequence and which wrench to use.

Hughes kit is a good kit, I used it as well way worth the extra few bucks! Just watch out for broken bolts when you're removing the manifold.

I did order a new oil pan gasket in case. I appreciate the idea of lifting the body and letting the suspension hang in an effort to gain the necessary clearance if it needs to be changed. It doesn't leak now and I don't want it to leak after.

Good idea, much better to be safe then sorry!

I have a pretty high level of confidence the plenum has failed. Checked it through the TB - quite a bit of oil. Also confirmed steel plate with magnet.

Sounds like it, def will be a good fix. You will notice a difference after! You might consider replacing your distributor cab and rotor and spark plugs and wires while your in there. Definitely a good idea.

Truck doesn't use oil beyond what I would anticipate with this mileage. It came with pretty good maintenance records. This tank of fuel is showing better mileage - indications suggest double digits without the use of a decimal point :).

Fuel rail line disconnect tool: I read somewhere size E - sound correct?

I have no idea, I pulled the rails and injectors to replace injector seals. FSM will tell you.

You guys have all offered good stuff! I may write a follow up after we are done. At a minimum there should be some entertaining anecdotes.

Love to see it if ya do! Just remember we need pics! :rockit:

One other question. Do any of you have issues with log on when using MS Explorer? I switched to Firefox and it seems to work better. I have written this post 3 times now and I kept getting booted when trying to preview. Going without preview this time.

I have always used google chrome and the only issue I ever get with the site is im not logged in when the page first opens but it logs me in when I click a link on the home page. No issues otherwise.

Thanks again all! Any other thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Scott.

Answers in the usual! :)
 

Merc225hp

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Posts
5,145
Reaction score
3,130
Location
NA
Ram Year
truck
Engine
gas
If you are going to drop the oil pan I would be installing a new HV oil pump and pick up tube. An HV pump will not suck all the oil out of the pan at anytime, unlike what you might hear.
 

Johnn123

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Posts
2,090
Reaction score
1,099
Location
Ontario
Ram Year
2010
Engine
5.7L Hemi
If you are going to drop the oil pan I would be installing a new HV oil pump and pick up tube. An HV pump will not suck all the oil out of the pan at anytime, unlike what you might hear.

Oh really? I have heard many a time that it will suck the pan dry unless you install a bigger pan with more oil? If it doesnt where that idea come from?
 

Merc225hp

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Posts
5,145
Reaction score
3,130
Location
NA
Ram Year
truck
Engine
gas
This might hold true for diff motor makers, but not ours. My motor is built to go well past the stock redline and I have had it over that many a time wheeling in the snow, stock oil pan is under it, it has never once lost oil psi at 6000+rpm. If this was a problem we would have read about it many a time on the forums and lot's are using the HV oil pump in there trucks.
 

Johnn123

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2013
Posts
2,090
Reaction score
1,099
Location
Ontario
Ram Year
2010
Engine
5.7L Hemi
This might hold true for diff motor makers, but not ours. My motor is built to go well past the stock redline and I have had it over that many a time wheeling in the snow, stock oil pan is under it, it has never once lost oil psi at 6000+rpm. If this was a problem we would have read about it many a time on the forums and lot's are using the HV oil pump in there trucks.

Ahhh ok fair enough, good it doesnt suck the pan dry haha. That is true we most def would hear more on forums than we do if it did lol.
 

dodge dude94

Millennial Boomer
Joined
Sep 5, 2013
Posts
27,745
Reaction score
6,426
Location
East Texas
Ram Year
1998 Ram 1500
Engine
5.9 Magnum
And don't forget Seafoam. :laughing1:

Or a new PCV valve from the dealer. If you haven't (which I don't think you've noted this), you might as well clean your throttle body and IAC valve and passage now since everything will be off. Also, if the Hughes kit doesn't come with a heater bypass hose (I think that's its technical term), you'll need one as they have a tendency to leak/spray coolant everywhere. Leading to a major :mad: and :flame: moment.
 
OP
OP
S

Silver Tex

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2013
Posts
62
Reaction score
7
Ram Year
1999
Engine
5.9
More good stuff!

Tell me more about seafoam. I have heard it is injected or introduced through the vacuum system. Is there a thread to point to that talks more about this. How long before tear down, best method of introduction, etc. I have also heard it is overrated - just what I read.

Is there something special about the PVC valve from dealer?

Hughes Kit comes with bypass hose. I might need a couple of new clamps.

HV oil pump, will consider IF pan has to come out. The truck is a 4X4. I was looking under it today and I really didn't see what would keep the oil pan from coming out, maybe I missed something as I didn't look real hard.

Magnaflow cat ordered. I went with all the piping associated with it. It was about $100 extra, but it looked like it might be easier to swap. I saw somewhere that the old one might be worth something at a junkyard. Is this true? If so, maybe I can offset some cost.

Any special considerations when pulling manifold bolts to limit breaking them?

I'm glad this post facilitated the quick debate over the HV oil pump :burnout:

A little anecdotal info. Topped off the truck with fuel today. 12.11 miles/gal. It's already looking up.

Thanks,
Scott.
 

dodge dude94

Millennial Boomer
Joined
Sep 5, 2013
Posts
27,745
Reaction score
6,426
Location
East Texas
Ram Year
1998 Ram 1500
Engine
5.9 Magnum
With the engine hot, you introduce the Seafoam in little bursts through the brake booster hose for about 1/3 to 1/2 of the can, give it a little chug, then shut the engine off for 15 minutes. You start the truck, rev it a bit, then take off down the street and smoke all your neighbors out. :laughing1: Drive the truck around until it stops smokey, then you're done.

The MOPAR PCV have a consistent flow rate, meaning they won't suck up oil like the parts store valves like to do.

The cat you order is what's called "Direct Fit" and includes the cat and replaces the stock Dodge y-pipe assembly. I got a cat that was just the cat, which is about $100 less, like you said.

There is a place here on the internet that will buy your cat from you (cat only) for about $75.
 

Merc225hp

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Posts
5,145
Reaction score
3,130
Location
NA
Ram Year
truck
Engine
gas
Just my op Seafoam over rated, I never use or recommend it, but lot's swear by it. I am a retired marine tech and that what this product was org for, cause more headache for customers than it was worth. If you want to decarbonise your motor go run it hard down the hwy, kick it into passing gear a few times (old school).

Oil pan removal

Disconn batt
Remove the starter
Remove the two braces that go from the block to the tranny
Remove the inspection cover for the tq converter
Remove the oil pan

To help hold the gasket in place use thread in four spots and tie it to the oil pan so it does not move on you.
 
OP
OP
S

Silver Tex

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2013
Posts
62
Reaction score
7
Ram Year
1999
Engine
5.9
Thanks Merc.

I have run a can of Lucas Fuel System additive. Since the tune up and at the last fill up, we broke 12 mpg. Things are looking up! The truck runs pretty good now, so I'm hoping it'll run even better with these new components.

I'm trying to avoid dropping the oil pan if possible. Thanks for the insight on how to drop the pan. I like that it doesn't have anything to do with unbolting the motor mounts and lifting the engine.

Timing set - the manual states remove the starter and wedge a screw driver into the flywheel to keep the timing marks in place once aligned. Why can't I align the timing marks and allow compression to hold it in place. Is there a potential for the cam or crank to rotate in this condition?

Thanks,
Scott.
 

dodge dude94

Millennial Boomer
Joined
Sep 5, 2013
Posts
27,745
Reaction score
6,426
Location
East Texas
Ram Year
1998 Ram 1500
Engine
5.9 Magnum
For the timing set, I believe most folks verify the markings on the old set, pull it off, and match the new set up and put it on.
 

Merc225hp

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2013
Posts
5,145
Reaction score
3,130
Location
NA
Ram Year
truck
Engine
gas
A couple of Mopar P part numbers for you to consider.

P5007709 TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER
P5249267 Double Roller Chain and Sprocket Set

Note: Timing gear Dot alignment info.

12 for crank and 6 for cam gear the rotor will point to cyld 6
12 and 12 the rotor will point to cyld 1

Pick one and go for it.
 
OP
OP
S

Silver Tex

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2013
Posts
62
Reaction score
7
Ram Year
1999
Engine
5.9
Thanks Guys!

I appreciate the alignment techniques.

I did see the tensioner as a part highlighted. I didn't see it offered by Rock Auto when I order the timing set. I better pick one up.

Thanks,
Scott.
 
Top