Random stalling

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crazzywolfie

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i was wondering what you might suggest looking at on a 94 ram 1500 if it was randomly stalling. it seems like it has been getting worse to the point it has stalled out 4 times in 1 day. it generally seems to do it when the engine is idling lower. the IAC was replaced in hopes that it would fix the issue but it hasn't. even giving it gas after stalling does nothing so i know the IAC is not the issue. when it does stall you have to wait a minute and it usually fires up again. will not re fire up immediately. it needs about 10-30 seconds with the key off before it will refire. i am possibly thinking crank or cam position sensor but i would hate to have to swap out a crank position sensor and it not be the issue especially since it is in such a pain in the as spot to get at.
 

knightlogger

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Crank position sensor going out. Mine was causing stalling and miss fire in my 01. I replaced the crank sensor and problem was gone

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knightlogger

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Mine was getting water into the sylinoid and causing it to short. When the truck was running and warm it would stall when I was driving. Then be hard to start.

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goodtodoo

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Probably the TPS. Also when it stalls give it a bit of gas pedal. Also heres another trick was just shown. If you look at the throttle body from the front on the passenger side you will see a small plug. Use a small sharpe chisel and remove that plug. Behind it is a adjustment screw that you can change the idle. I get you a pic later.
 
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crazzywolfie

crazzywolfie

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there is no misfire or anything going on. it runs fine other than it seems to just randomly cut out. it will sometimes do it when it is ice cold or after it has warmed up there is no consistency in why it stalls. it just tends to do it quite often when in drive at low speeds like backing out of a parking spot or pulling a 3 point turn. i know the issue has be going on for over a year. i think the new msd coil last year helped mask the problem but it is still there.

i tried swapping the TPS. i don't think it is the issue. i might test it to be sure but i am pretty sure it is good. i tried holding the throttle open when it would stall out and it did nothing. the only thing that seems to get it started again is giving it the 10-30 seconds with the key off. once it fires up again it seems fine. i really don't know. the computer is not throwing any codes which is not surprising.
 

Max78

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I have the same issue with my truck, random hickups and stalling, generally it would start right back up within seconds but lately it got longer between restarts. I suspected it was the cam sensor because the tech would not more when attempting to re-start.

For the longest time did not get a code so I suspected the PCM too, but finally I got one yesterday and it is the cam sensor in the distributor.

Look at your tachometer when you are attempting to restart and if it does not register any movement it could be the issue.

most common things that will cause an instant stall and no start that I have experienced.
Crank Position Sensor
Cam Speed Sensor
Coil
 
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crazzywolfie

crazzywolfie

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there is no tach. i might try order a new a new cam and crank position sensor and hope the issue is only with the cam position sensor. i really don't want to deal with a crank position sensor unless i have to since i know how much of a pain it is with all the emissions crap in the way.
 

goodtodoo

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Heres the hidden adjustment screw dodge doesn,t want you to know about.
 

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crazzywolfie

crazzywolfie

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i know about that and i know they don't need to be touched. my issue is not with the throttle or it not staying open. the IAC works properly. like i said holding the throttle open when it stalls has no effect at all on getting it to start again.
 

Max78

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Heres the hidden adjustment screw dodge doesn,t want you to know about.

That is not an idle adjustment screw, THERE IS NO IDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW. . . Idle is done via IAC (Idle Air Control valve) it does all the adjusting needed.

That is there to adjust the throttle blade so it does not rub on the throttle body (that would be bad), you do NOT want to move that screw, and if you did and it made a difference you need a new IAC!
 
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dapepper9

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That is not an idle adjustment screw, THERE IS NO IDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW. . . Idle is done via IAC (Idle Air Control valve) it does all the adjusting needed.

That is there to adjust the throttle blade so it does not rub on the throttle body (that would be bad), you do NOT want to move that screw, and if you did and it made a difference you need a new IAC!

+1. Screw is to set the idle stop from the factory hence the plug cover. Only time it should be used is with an aftermarket tb setup AT THE ADVICE OF YOUR TUNER. No other time. Period.
 
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crazzywolfie

crazzywolfie

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well i tried pushing this off as long as i could but it seems to be getting real bad lately. i replaced the pickup sensor in the distributor and it seems to have made no difference. if anything it might have gotten worse but hard to say with how bad it has gotten lately. the other day is stalled about 4 times in under 1km and every time it stalled while driving. i am going to try replacing the crank sensor tomorrow. thinking about yanking the motor mounts and lowering the engine. hopefully it will drop and tilt forward just enough to not make the job too hard. i am hoping i don't have to touch the emission crap but have a feeling i may have no choice.
 
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crazzywolfie

crazzywolfie

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i don't have a fuel pressure gauge but i can hear the fuel pump working when i turn the key on and fuel shoots out of the valve on the fuel rail. even after cycling the key a few times and hearing the pump run it will still not start. i am pretty sure it is either a sensor issue or possibly a wiring issue which would really suck. if you let it sit for a few minutes it fires right up
 

dudeman2009

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Its possible that the crank sensor is going bad. If you want an easier way to replace it, pull the intake and go at it from above, its not easy, but its easier. Also having a set of swivel sockets or a swivel adapter will make the job easier.
 
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crazzywolfie

crazzywolfie

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thanks. i am hoping pulling the motor mounts will make enough room. i know i should probably pull the intake and address the plenum and all that crap but i don't really feel like it and i don't have new intake manifold bolts or a torque wrench that is in in-lbs. i was also hoping to have this issue fixed by tomorrow. just waiting for the driveway and engine bay to dry off and then i am going to start tearing stuff apart.
 
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crazzywolfie

crazzywolfie

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it took longer to get the sensor swapped out than i like but i got it done. still haven't had a chance to take it for a drive since everything is not bolted back together yet but i have a feeling it may not fix my issue or might have got a defective CPS. there seems like there is now a random misfire higher up in the rpm range that i don't remember being there with the old CPS but i am going to try straightening out my spark plug wires first and make sure that is not my issue. the idea of scrapping this ****box is getting more tempting so i can spend more time working on my 89 or 81. my 81 is currently my daily driver and running perfectly
 

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