Started my plenum repair, what a pain!

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Sohc1997

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The 5.9 was losing 2 quarts in 800 miles, valve covers were leaking to. I got everything torn down, I fought the most with the stupid plug wire holders that go over the valve cover bolts.....now I'm trying to get the two front broken bolts out of the head from the intake, they broke off at the head of the bolt so I have a lot to grab but there not budging? Don't know why the pics are sideways....
 

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David H

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Did my 98 earlier this year. Broke the same 2 bolts. 2 days of soaking with PB Blaster and a few heat cycles with a propane torch and still no budgy. Used my old arc welder to weld a nut on each stud. The welds broke, (I'm not very good) but I think that intense heat did the trick 'cause a vicegrip on the studs finally eased them out.
 

Yeret

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Ah yes, I remember trying to do mine and breaking 2 bolts in the passenger side head. PB Blaster, heat, EZ Outs, vice grips and probably some other stuff that I can't remember all failed (one of the EZ Outs busted off inside one of the bolts). Ended up just replacing the heads which was just as well because both of the old ones were cracked.

Stupid TTY bolts...
 
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Sohc1997

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Well I got them out by letting them sit overnight soaked in PB, I heated them up real good, clamped a new pair of vise grips on, sprayed PB on it right after removing the heat, just worked back and forth the both came right out.
 

David H

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Huge relief when it works out like that. Make sure to clean all the threads really well before installing the keg so you get a good, true torque on each bolt.
 

dudeman2009

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Lube your nuts and bolts. No, really.
Because David mentioned it. Here we go.
Back in school, a fastener engineer came in and lectured for an hour on fastener usage and operation. Amazingly enough, he didn't really repeat himself, there was a lot of information packed into that hour.

The difference between 'wet' and 'dry' bolts is actually quite amazing. Unless otherwise specified, most all torque specs are for dry fasteners. Clean with no oil or residue. The problem is when you apply a dry torque setting to a wet bolt. You will over torque it. Over tightening a bolt is just as bad as under tightening it. 20ft-lbs over is just as bad as 20 under, both will cause premature failure.

Its not super important on non-essential things like lug nuts and battery hold downs, but on engine components its much more important.

Even rubbing a bolt across your nose twice is enough to properly lubricate it (as long as you dont have dry skin)

When you put the new bolts in, either clean the threads well, or reduce the torque specs by 15-20% for oil. 50% for teflon based lubricants. Otherwise the chance of failure is greatly increased.
 
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Sohc1997

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Got it all back together!

Can't wait to fire it up....
 

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Sport

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I love that orange paint! Which brand air box is that???
 

Thundervee

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Looks good dude!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Sohc1997

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Thanks, it's the factory box for a 5.9l with a K&N filter.
 

mda8569

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That looks great dude! I never knew the 02 airhat was different. Wish I had before I bought that spector unit.
 

pajeepman

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Yeah, i had a airaid intake on my 96 and it will not just bolt onto my 03, i think it could be made to fit, stud is different shape.

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RamV10

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Looks good. I sure would of spent the money to buy stainless steel bolts to prevent breaking if you ever have to pull it again.
I learned that when I was in my 20s. I had a 1962 Chevy 283 2bbl. The carb stud would break from being close to the heat from the manifold heat cross over. replaced them with stainless steel that fixed that issue for good.
 

pajeepman

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Or use never seize. Not sure how that changes torque specs but i was told it does.

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SportRam00

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Definitely like that paint! I might have to dig into mine again. The idle on my truck is a little funny (like I have a small vacuum leak) and I did notice a small amount of oil pooled in the back of the keg. Don't really lose oil between changes though.... :confused:
 
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