Vehicle problems Stalling Dying.

realflow100 · Jul 24, 2016

hello my parents dodge ram 1999 1500 5.2L has been having some problems

It runs perfectly when cold after its warmed up it wants to die unless we keep it revved but it starts getting rougher and rougher and sounds like its going to fall apart shaking a lot.

if it dies and we start it. it starts easily but still runs rough while warmed up and wants to die if we let it go to idle

Every time we dont use the car for about a month we take the battery cables off because it has some sort of draw on the battery that doesnt cease.

The oil smells like gas pretty strongly in the oil tank. There seems to be the correct amount of oil though. Right in the middle of the "safe" mark

The oil gauge in the dash is not agreeing with the dipstick and reading about halfway between the middle and "max" lines.

also the speed MPH gauge is stuck at 0MPH

For a few weeks the car wouldn't want to start after we let it sit after dying for a month or so.
It would sputter and sputter occasionally but never start.
We used almost a fourth thing of engine starting fluid directly into the air intake before it eventually started and ran poorly with lots of white smoke and mixture of white and black smoke at first.
About 10-15 seconds later it was running just fine we drove to the store and got groceries but on our way back it was struggling and really sputtering
Now today it's starting just fine but doesnt want to stay running when warmed up
The transmission fluid seems just fine though.
also it seems the check engine light isnt on.

but the ABS and brake lights are on continuously for some reason.

What could be the cause for so many issues?

It just spontaneously started doing this after a few years of running just fine.
but we don't use the vehicle very often.

also I believe once the engine is started. before it warms up but when its almost warmed up and not yet running rough or wanting to stall.
The rpm is about 650RPM and It sounds like I can hear the spark plugs individually firing. sounds like clicking almost but its not very noticable is that normal?

Theres no unusual amount of exhaust or even visible exhaust when running for about 30 seconds. no color or anything even when its about to die
At first though the exhaust is dark right when its first started.

I attempted to clean the air intake with a toothbrush and a rag and there was black smear on it.
I also notice a "sssssssing" sound when the AC is turned on. or when the engine is slowing down from a rev. that sounds like constricted air

Also occasionally while trying to start the engine. The starter will suddenly halt instantly with a mechanical "clunk" then immediately continue to crank and start the engine.
it was happening a lot while we were trying to get the engine to start when it didnt want to start for a while but still sometimes happens.

It calls for regular gas but we added an octane booster/cleaner mixture to the tank and thats i believe what mostly got the car to start up in the first place when it wouldnt want to start after sitting.
Could we try running the medium gas and see if it improves? It seems theres far too much advance engine timing on startup

joepizuro · Jul 24, 2016

So your speedo doesn't work. That should throw a code. The oil gauge is for oil pressure not amount. My old ram used to do something similar to this... basically under idle while warm would drop down to 100rpm of stall. Sounds like you need to check a few things. IAC, o2 sensor, and for the speedo-wheel speed sensor in rear axle, the wire from it and u can do a cluster check by holding down trip meter reset until light comes on and turn key to on while still holding it. That will show you what gauges work. Also go go an auto store and have them plug it in while key turned to on. And where is the oil tank?!

Gr8bawana · Jul 24, 2016

It's amazing how many people think the oil pressure guage is an indicator of oil level.

realflow100 · Jul 24, 2016

Trip meter reset? What do you mean?

Also the oil tank is beside the engine block. pretty easy to access.

dapepper9 · Jul 24, 2016

realflow100 said:
hello my parents dodge ram 1999 1500 5.2L has been having some problems

It runs perfectly when cold after its warmed up it wants to die unless we keep it revved but it starts getting rougher and rougher and sounds like its going to fall apart shaking a lot.

if it dies and we start it. it starts easily but still runs rough while warmed up and wants to die if we let it go to idle
can often be iac, 02 sensor, tps
Every time we dont use the car for about a month we take the battery cables off because it has some sort of draw on the battery that doesnt cease.
parasitic draw somewhere, hard to track down sometimes
The oil smells like gas pretty strongly in the oil tank. There seems to be the correct amount of oil though. Right in the middle of the "safe" mark
if it smells like gas is because there is gas. All this starting sounds like no spark and fuel is be being allows allowed to sit in the cylinders and leaks past the rings into the oil pan mixing with the oil. If the level is perfect,you're definitely low on oil
The oil gauge in the dash is not agreeing with the dipstick and reading about halfway between the middle and "max" lines.
that's not an oil level gauge that's an oil pressure gauge, and a ****** one at that.
also the speed MPH gauge is stuck at 0MPH

For a few weeks the car wouldn't want to start after we let it sit after dying for a month or so.
It would sputter and sputter occasionally but never start.
We used almost a fourth thing of engine starting fluid directly into the air intake before it eventually started and ran poorly with lots of white smoke and mixture of white and black smoke at first.
About 10-15 seconds later it was running just fine we drove to the store and got groceries but on our way back it was struggling and really sputtering
Now today it's starting just fine but doesnt want to stay running when warmed up
The transmission fluid seems just fine though.
also it seems the check engine light isnt on.
do not use starting fluid. And transmission fluid is checked in neutral with the engine running so all you accomplished was checking color and smell,if you did that
but the ABS and brake lights are on continuously for some reason.

What could be the cause for so many issues?

It just spontaneously started doing this after a few years of running just fine.
but we don't use the vehicle very often.

also I believe once the engine is started. before it warms up but when its almost warmed up and not yet running rough or wanting to stall.
The rpm is about 650RPM and It sounds like I can hear the spark plugs individually firing. sounds like clicking almost but its not very noticable is that normal?

Theres no unusual amount of exhaust or even visible exhaust when running for about 30 seconds. no color or anything even when its about to die
At first though the exhaust is dark right when its first started.
think you're definitely burning oil,probably valve seals from running with gasoline in the oil
I attempted to clean the air intake with a toothbrush and a rag and there was black smear on it.
I also notice a "sssssssing" sound when the AC is turned on. or when the engine is slowing down from a rev. that sounds like constricted air

Also occasionally while trying to start the engine. The starter will suddenly halt instantly with a mechanical "clunk" then immediately continue to crank and start the engine.
it was happening a lot while we were trying to get the engine to start when it didnt want to start for a while but still sometimes happens.

It calls for regular gas but we added an octane booster/cleaner mixture to the tank and thats i believe what mostly got the car to start up in the first place when it wouldnt want to start after sitting.
Could we try running the medium gas and see if it improves? It seems theres far too much advance engine timing on startup
Ethanol fuel will separate into the alcohol/gas mix and water if left for more than 2 weeks or so so that's probably where fuel treatment helped if that's the case. Better,fresh gas certainly wouldn't hurt.

Timing is computer controlled so that's not going to be it.

Loss of speedometer with abs and brake lights is usually the speed sensor. Should be on the rear axle but might be on the driverside of the transmission/transfer case. I forget where it's at do depending on the year.

Sounds like you have fuel as it's in your oil so you probably are lacking spark. Issues a multi meter to ohm check the coil for 11-15k ohms between the tower and either pin on the plug, if that's good check for spark by putting a plug in the coil wire and holding it to the block whole somebody cranks it. Should be bright blue and very consistent. If that's good check your cap and rotor behind the intake manifold for arcing and carbon deposits. If they look like **** replace them, one of the cheapest parts you can buy.

Definitely do an oil change before letting it crank at all because you're destroying it right now. Intake manifold plenum gasket is definitely on the list for the best future as well.

Cheap easy troubleshooting you can do for now.

dapepper9 · Jul 24, 2016

realflow100 said:
Trip meter reset? What do you mean?

Also the oil tank is beside the engine block. pretty easy to access.

Trip meter button is also known as odometer button.

Wtf are you looking at when you talk about oil tank? Your oil comes from the pan on the bottom of the engine, not some tank next to the block

joepizuro · Jul 24, 2016

He's talking about the cover... I think lol. Anyway all this information posted should be enough to get you running again. Read it all over well

Yeret · Jul 24, 2016

It runs perfectly when cold after its warmed up it wants to die unless we keep it revved but it starts getting rougher and rougher and sounds like its going to fall apart shaking a lot.

First thing I'd check is the upstream O2 sensor. If this is a problem, the engine won't be affected until the computer switches to closed loop mode. During warm-up, the computer runs in open loop mode and will not adjust fuel/air mixture according to O2 sensor reading.

The oil smells like gas pretty strongly in the oil tank. There seems to be the correct amount of oil though. Right in the middle of the "safe" mark

Eh, high mileage engine? Warn rings = increased blowby = gassy oil. Nothing you can really do about it short of a rebuild. I've driven a few cars that had plenty of blowby and they ran just fine.

also the speed MPH gauge is stuck at 0MPH

-faulty speedometer (which can be verified with the cluster's "self check" test.
-faulty ABS speed sensor (located on the rear axle).
-faulty ABS speed sensor wiring (bleck...)

The rpm is about 650RPM and It sounds like I can hear the spark plugs individually firing. sounds like clicking almost but its not very noticable is that normal?

That's likely the fuel injectors firing and yes, it's normal. Haven't been under the hood of a running fuel-injected engine yet that I couldn't hear the injectors.

I attempted to clean the air intake with a toothbrush and a rag and there was black smear on it.

That's common, though I'm not really sure why. The main thing is crud can work it's way back to the IAC and sticky it up, making it slow to open/close which can cause idling and even running problems.

Also occasionally while trying to start the engine. The starter will suddenly halt instantly with a mechanical "clunk" then immediately continue to crank and start the engine.

Yick, that almost sounds like a broken tooth on the flywheel...

joepizuro · Jul 25, 2016

Yeret said:
First thing I'd check is the upstream O2 sensor. If this is a problem, the engine won't be affected until the computer switches to closed loop mode. During warm-up, the computer runs in open loop mode and will not adjust fuel/air mixture according to O2 sensor reading.

Eh, high mileage engine? Warn rings = increased blowby = gassy oil. Nothing you can really do about it short of a rebuild. I've driven a few cars that had plenty of blowby and they ran just fine.

-faulty speedometer (which can be verified with the cluster's "self check" test.
-faulty ABS speed sensor (located on the rear axle).
-faulty ABS speed sensor wiring (bleck...)

That's likely the fuel injectors firing and yes, it's normal. Haven't been under the hood of a running fuel-injected engine yet that I couldn't hear the injectors.

That's common, though I'm not really sure why. The main thing is crud can work it's way back to the IAC and sticky it up, making it slow to open/close which can cause idling and even running problems.

Yick, that almost sounds like a broken tooth on the flywheel...

Wouldn't a broken tooth make a dead spot where the starter would spin? Almost sounds like a failing starter (probably from not letting it cool down) or a bad connection..

realflow100 · Jul 25, 2016

I have no idea about the starter thing. but it sure cranks the engine hard and fast when it does crank. i think its the same/stock starter that came with the truck.
it feels more like the engine fires the wrong way weakly. and halting the starter in its tracks then immediately continuing again

gofishn · Jul 25, 2016

Clogged Cat?

As mentioned, change the oil. Fuel smell is unburnt fuel. Lugging or stalling is too high a fuel ratio. Could be crank or cam sensors sending engine, out of time, relative to firing sequence/piston position. Clogged cat will also cause stalling/lagging since the pedal will add more gas, to the mix, but the exhaust gasses cannot escape, creating excessive back pressure.

clogged cat is easy to check, remove o2 sensor before the cat and see if it runs slightly better, now that the exhaust gas has that additional opening ot escape, prior to being forced thru the cat. Another way is to poke a hole in the damn thing. not recommended though unless pretty darn sure that is the issue. Usually you will notice a worsening fuel mileage and, generally a rotton egg smell prior to cat getting this blocked up though. Rotton egg smell is sulfur being added to **** poor gas to boost octane artificially. sulfur does not get burned away, completely, in the cat and clogs it up.

82Crew · Jul 25, 2016

The engine stopping while starting sounds like a fuel injector is leaking and hydro locking the engine

realflow100 · Jul 25, 2016

I dont know then. it has no unusual smell at all. Exhaust comes out very fluidly and easily. no moisture coming out the exhaust. hardly any smell at all actually.
it runs just flawlessly as if theres literally nothing wrong with anything. but once it gets warmed up. its like someone is playing with the mixture or piston firing order or fuel flow or something and i dont even know. could it be something as simple as a fuel filter or oil filter clog?

If we rev the engine a bit. it stays running but sounds worse and worse like its going to come apart or something!

realflow100 · Jul 28, 2016

Well Now i've unplugged a sensor connected to the air intake that was on the back of it

now it idles higher just above 1,000 RPM and when it warms up it starts to creep up a tiny bit more then it starts to want to die
but THIS time it just runs really rough and poorly. when revving it sounds completely fine.

I also hear an reasonably loud "SSSSSSSSSSS-ing" noise from the engine continously that doesn't die out like before.
The exhaust is very clear but also very unusually hot. (running lean or something??)
When its in this state the exhaust sounds bad like its misfiring a cylinder and the vehicle/engine shakes

When revving none of these things happen anymore and it revs just fine if i rev it above a certain RPM.

With that sensor removed the engine check light comes on immediately even before cranking the engine over. probably just because the sensor is removed.

i could say it runs marginally longer but the RPM is unusually high.
also it seems when I rev the engine up a bit the "SSSSSS-ing" noise disappears.

Only one time did it truely want to stall but I got it back up by giving it a little gas.

also the oil cap and oil dipstick smell of gasoline
could it even be as bad as leaky piston rings??

joepizuro · Jul 28, 2016

You unplugged the idle air control.... I'd plug that back in. Get under your truck and follow the manifolds back. First sensor you see on the exhaust pipe-unplug it. You don't have to unscrew it from the exhaust! Follow the wire about 1 foot and it will have a connector. You should only need to unplug 1 to make the truck run closed loop. Make sure it's the one closest to the manifolds and NOT the one downstream (after catalytic converter) you should probably take it to a shop lol

realflow100 · Jul 28, 2016

if I unplugged that sensor what would it do instead? run closed loop? im not familiar with these terms.

Tryin · Jul 28, 2016

I agree with Joe, you should probably take it to a shop. I can certainly appreciate you trying to learn and take care of this problem, but it sounds like you might be in a bit over your head.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Smarz · Aug 4, 2016

Check the speed sensor

I had a similar problem with my truck; abs and brake light constantly on, and speedometer quit working. Found a wire broke out of terminal in speed sensor. Once I replaced the speed sensor, the truck quit stalling and the dash board lights went away.

(Speed sensor plugs into the back differential btw)

realflow100 · Aug 8, 2016

Heres the thing though. The vehicle stalls and dies when its not even moving (stationary) just from warming up by idling long enough causes it to die.

i just checked when cool and the oil level is actually perfectly in the middle of the "safe" range on the dipstick. so no oil problem. no trans fluid problem. I think its an electrical problem!

03_dodge_5.7 · Aug 8, 2016

realflow100 said:
hello my parents dodge ram 1999 1500 5.2L has been having some problems

It runs perfectly when cold after its warmed up it wants to die unless we keep it revved but it starts getting rougher and rougher and sounds like its going to fall apart shaking a lot.

if it dies and we start it. it starts easily but still runs rough while warmed up and wants to die if we let it go to idle

Every time we dont use the car for about a month we take the battery cables off because it has some sort of draw on the battery that doesnt cease.

The oil smells like gas pretty strongly in the oil tank. There seems to be the correct amount of oil though. Right in the middle of the "safe" mark

The oil gauge in the dash is not agreeing with the dipstick and reading about halfway between the middle and "max" lines.

also the speed MPH gauge is stuck at 0MPH

For a few weeks the car wouldn't want to start after we let it sit after dying for a month or so.
It would sputter and sputter occasionally but never start.
We used almost a fourth thing of engine starting fluid directly into the air intake before it eventually started and ran poorly with lots of white smoke and mixture of white and black smoke at first.
About 10-15 seconds later it was running just fine we drove to the store and got groceries but on our way back it was struggling and really sputtering
Now today it's starting just fine but doesnt want to stay running when warmed up
The transmission fluid seems just fine though.
also it seems the check engine light isnt on.

but the ABS and brake lights are on continuously for some reason.

What could be the cause for so many issues?

It just spontaneously started doing this after a few years of running just fine.
but we don't use the vehicle very often.

also I believe once the engine is started. before it warms up but when its almost warmed up and not yet running rough or wanting to stall.
The rpm is about 650RPM and It sounds like I can hear the spark plugs individually firing. sounds like clicking almost but its not very noticable is that normal?

Theres no unusual amount of exhaust or even visible exhaust when running for about 30 seconds. no color or anything even when its about to die
At first though the exhaust is dark right when its first started.

I attempted to clean the air intake with a toothbrush and a rag and there was black smear on it.
I also notice a "sssssssing" sound when the AC is turned on. or when the engine is slowing down from a rev. that sounds like constricted air

Also occasionally while trying to start the engine. The starter will suddenly halt instantly with a mechanical "clunk" then immediately continue to crank and start the engine.
it was happening a lot while we were trying to get the engine to start when it didnt want to start for a while but still sometimes happens.

It calls for regular gas but we added an octane booster/cleaner mixture to the tank and thats i believe what mostly got the car to start up in the first place when it wouldnt want to start after sitting.
Could we try running the medium gas and see if it improves? It seems theres far too much advance engine timing on startup

Listen you can hook it up to a million computer get under the truck and look for burnt wire. The crank sensor wires to be exact if the fell down from there clip they will be sitting right on the exhaust and when it gets hot they make contact please just check it took me 10 minutes to fix my truck and about 10c worth or tape and zip ties after paying shops to put new everytjing including throttle body witch the computor said it was but that computor isn't that smart

Vehicle problems Stalling Dying.

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