AC fuse blowing, truck running rough when one is in

1. 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9
2. 66k miles (yes that is correct owned by my dad and now me)
3. DODGE JEEP 52MM BORED PORTED THROTTLE BODY MAGNUM 318 5.2 360 5.9 1992-2003
   ( 261861377268 )
4. Engine at idle surges to about 1500 - 2000 RPM at startup - figured this was a plenum issue, bought Ebay plenum and all the parts, not replaced yet as I didn't realize AC bracket was mounted to manifold
5. This weekend changed out Dist, Dist internal, spark plugs, spark plug wires - note WTF did dodge put the Dist in the back that far under...
6. Replaced battery as ABS was clicking after I reconnected it and it was old
7. Noticed 140 amp alt fuse (fusible link) blown - due to cluster not working, AC fuse blown, and cluster gauge fuse blow - replaced all - AC fuse blows every time I turn it on, others are ok.

• AC fuse blows every time I start it up - obviously have no AC due to that, seemed to work before
• Removing AC fuse seems to make it run better
• Seems to run pretty good (a bit of idle bumping) without AC fuse
• Still obviously surges a bit (I'm guessing plenum)
• Radio blew as well, but I haven't pulled it out assuming radio fuse that was attached (aftermarket pioneer)

• AC worked before all this
• Battery seemed ok, putting it back on cause the clicking in either the ABS or the PCM/ECM above it - does not click now
• Don't see any shorts
• Spark plugs looks great (old ones)
• It is surging, but WAY less so without the AC fuse in there.
• Still planning to replace the plenum with the ebay steel one, just more work

• Missing or loose fuel cap
• Incorrect fuel filler cap used
• Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close
• EVAP canister or fuel tank leaks
• EVAP system hose leaking
• Fuel tank leaking

1. Buy diodes - I got mine off amazon, what you are looking for is 1N4007 (I got a multipack
2. Unplug the clutch.
3. Strip off the heatshrink where the diode is hiding it is about 3 - 4 inches down the clutch wire to clutch. This is a pain in the ass as it is glued inside of the heatshrink which goes most of the way. Clip and peel it off careful, taking care not to cut the wires (since diode is toast it doesn't matter as much)
4. It bridges the white and black striped wire and the black wire, it is for overvoltage and if it goes out or breaks it will blow the fuse.
5. Take note the direction it is going, there is a white strip for the direction of the Cathode, the other side is the Anode. The electricity flows through the Anode side, the Stripe side blocks electricity going back the other way (I might not be exactly correct in my terminology as this is from googling)
6. On mine and probably all others, the stripe on the diode is facing the white/black wire not the black wire
7. I clipped off the wires at the crimp spots. Of note this shortens/unevens things a bit and makes it a bit of a pain, but mine had glue all over it, so I didn't think it was going to work.
8. I then stripped both ends of each the white/black and black so I could twist them back together
9. I cut heatshrink and put it over both two wires on each side (not much room) and a bigger piece of heatshrink around one end over that as well
10. I then soldered the two ends of the white/black wire, with the diode, with the diode stripe facing the white/black wire. It is a pita soldering a tiny diode, onto two twisted wires, which still in the truck.
11. After that I then soldered the black wire ends with the other end of the diode
12. Pulled heatshrink as much as possible over them (my soldering job was bad) and shrunk it. Pulled the big heatshrink over the shrunk smaller heatshrink and shrunk it - pretty solid
13. Put a new wire loom around the whole thing from clutch to plug
14. Put a new ziptie around it so it doesn't move around where the old one was I had to clip off from the compressor
15. Plug back in, and replace red clip (I recommend testing it first as the red clip is a pain to get out
16. Put blown A/C clutch fuse back in, if you hadn't replaced it

Zervun said:

For the A/C:

Mine was the diode.

When I had put the old battery back in I heard clicking and, it shorted out a few things, and this was one of them (also shorted out the dash and the radio I replaced those fuses and they worked). However the A/C fuse kept blowing. If I disconnected the A/C clutch the fuse wouldn't blow.

So, what I did: I didn't have time to take pictures as I was rushing and forgot

1. Buy diodes - I got mine off amazon, what you are looking for is 1N4007 (I got a multipack
2. Unplug the clutch.
3. Strip off the heatshrink where the diode is hiding it is about 3 - 4 inches down the clutch wire to clutch. This is a pain in the ass as it is glued inside of the heatshrink which goes most of the way. Clip and peel it off careful, taking care not to cut the wires (since diode is toast it doesn't matter as much)
4. It bridges the white and black striped wire and the black wire, it is for overvoltage and if it goes out or breaks it will blow the fuse.

Click to expand...

1. 
   
   Good to hear to found the problem and fixed it.
   That diode is there to counteract feedback/spike voltage from the clutch coil pack.