Universal keyless entry install

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Jimeeb

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Okay so I purchased a keyless entry system from eBay it is an unbranded model with no manufacturer information on it. I understand the instructions on how to install it however the problem I am having is determining the positive or negative door lock trigger on my 2000 Dodge Ram off road Edition. I probed my door lock wires with a test light the first test I put the Probe on a negative and probe the wire while operating the switch there was no light in either position I switched the probe to a 12-volt positive and repeated the test when I touch the wire the test light will illuminate and when I operate the switch it goes out so is this saying that it is a a negative trigger?
 

dudeman2009

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The orange/violet wire is the locking wire, 12v needs to be supplied to lock the door. The pink/violet wire is the unlock wire, 12v needs to be supplied to unlock the doors. The first color is the same on the passenger side, but the secondary color is dark green.

In the resting position, both wires are actively grounded on the base model, and there is 4 wires on the switch. On the highline/premium versions there is only 3 wires, and no ground.

For both versions, the red wire is fused battery supply.
 
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Jimeeb

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OK, so the inputs to the modules relays need to be connected to +12v and the outputs to the orange/violet pink/violet respectively? And on the n/o side odviously. Does this sound correct? Oh and thank you for your response.

Also,. You mentioned the passenger side wires, I was under the impression that the drivers door (master switch) would control both doors.
 

dudeman2009

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OK, so the inputs to the modules relays need to be connected to +12v and the outputs to the orange/violet pink/violet respectively? And on the n/o side odviously. Does this sound correct? Oh and thank you for your response.

Also,. You mentioned the passenger side wires, I was under the impression that the drivers door (master switch) would control both doors.

Yes, all you need is to hook up to one of the switches, both doors will be controlled. But I was unsure of which side you were messing with.

I'm not sure what type of system you're using, but the module should have its own power and ground. You can just splice into the Red wire for power, and if you have the 4 wire connector, you can just splice into that fourth wire for ground. If you have the 3 wire connector, you can use the door frame or some other body ground, there should be a black/light green wire if you have power windows, you can tap into that for your ground if you wish.

Yes, just hook the relay outputs to the respective wires for lock and unlock.
 
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Jimeeb

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Yes, sorry I'm on the drivers side.
I already have the module hooked up to power and ground, but further thinking is making me think that if I splice into the lock/unlock wires and hit my rke button, that's going to send 12v to the wire that is grounded because the door switch is at rest.
I have not pulled the switch to check for 3or4 wires. So I guess that's my next step.

And one more thing comes to mind. In my original post I stated that with my test light connected to ground and probing lock/unlock wires, when operating the switch , shouldn't the test light illuminate when switch is operated? Because it does not.

Wow. Installing my remote start was not this frustrating.
But I am persistent if nothing else,. I'll figure it out if it hairlips everyone on Bear Creek
 

dudeman2009

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If you have 4 wires, there is another way that we can wire this up. It just makes things more difficult. Pull the switch, if you have the 4 wire setup i'll go over the procedure to hook that up.
 
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Jimeeb

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Will do. Unfortunately the truck won't fit in garage and it gets dark so damn early that I have very little daylight left after work.not to mention it's my daily driver so whatever I pull apart I have to put back together so I can drive to work. I'll at least get it apart tomorrow to check the switch wiring.
I'll post my findings along with some pics .
And I appreciate your help and time. Thanks again.
 
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Jimeeb

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Okay I'm finally back sorry for the delay but I've been working just way too many hours but anyways pulled the switch out and here is a picture of it there's obviously more than four wires here so I will let you decipher if it's the three wire setup or four
1485019361376.jpg

And this is my modules relays.
1485021260251.jpg
Sorry about the lowsy drawing
 
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Jimeeb

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Figured it out.
I didn't show wire color on this. It doesn't matter as last ng as you know your relay scheme. Then you can use the cilors that came with your unit.
This worked for me.
1485038498299.jpg
 

dudeman2009

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You have power windows. I forgot to ask about that. Some of those wires are for the power windows.

I'm a bit tired and worn out from and engine and trans swap/partial rebuild. I'm not sure what the common terminals are connecting to though. I say try it, if it doesn't work, you blow a fuse. I'm going to speculate and say you have the base model, but the easy way to tell is to look at the CTM, the base version has one connector the highline/premium version has two.
 
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Jimeeb

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Yeah sorry. Bad drawing. The commons go to the lock/unlock wires on the body side of the harness . I wired it up and it works perfectly. Only thing I may change is to hoik up the power window close wire so the windows automatically go up when I lock the doors
 

dudeman2009

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Just understand, they will only roll for as long as the relay is activated.
 
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Jimeeb

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Sorry thought I had replied, but i guess it never posted.
Anyways the commons are going to the lock/unlock wires on the ( body side) of the harness
Here is a much better schematic.
Once again the only wires shown are the ones being used . There are obviously more wires but we are only concerned with the ones shown.IMG_20170131_221255.jpg
This worked for me, but for anyone doing this themselves perform this process at your own risk. I'm not responsible for any damages done due to not knowing what you're doing. You should have moderate comprehension of basic electrical circuits before attempting this.

As far as the power windows go, o do have a power window lead that sends a 30 second pulse to close the windows when the lock button is pushed. I have not hooked that one up as of yet, but I plan to soon.
 

dudeman2009

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Awesome that you got this done, and even cooler that it has an auto window roll feature.
 
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Jimeeb

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Awesome that you got this done, and even cooler that it has an auto window roll feature.

Could not have done it without your help. Knowing how the switch was wired was key to figuring out how to wire the relays.
Thanks a million.
 
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